Tube Mic Power Supply Enclosure Design

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Skylar

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Joined
Sep 16, 2005
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Location
Irvine, CA
         
I am designing an enclosure for a tube microphone power supply.
The design follows the feel of the EQU47 mic body from this thread and is heavily influenced by the Neumann NG-series power supplies.
I would like to offer this power supply for sale to groupdiy members.


DETAILS:

The enclosure is a two-piece "U" design to be made from folded sheet metal (20–22 gauge steel).
The dimensions are W=5.12"(130mm) x H=5.56"(141mm) x D=10"(254mm)
The plan is to leave the metal unfinished so that you can finish it in any colour you like.

Front:



Back:



The enclosure cover attaches to the base with 8 x 6-32 screws.


The above renders have hole cut-outs for:
[FRONT]
Binder 691 7-pin female panel mount connector
neutrik XLR
1/4" (6.35mm) pot shaft

[BACK]
IEC power inlet
0.48" (12mm) toggle switch
0.69" (17.5mm) amp jewel/lamp

[TOP]
amp handle(4 holes) - 1.875" (47.5mm) centers | 7.25" (184mm) handle length




This question is thus:
What hole configuration would be most universal for this power supply?

We probably want to keep the IEC, neutrik, knob shaft, & amp handle holes as is.
Then perhaps have smaller "starter" holes for the toggle, lamp, & multipin connector holes.


What is the popular opinion on this?
Please let me know as soon as possible because my supplier is going to be asking about this soon (as in the next couple of days).
 
Looks great.  Love the shape and layout and U style. 

What is the metal, aluminum?

I agree with the small starter holes.

I think the hole configuration is great.  It puts the EIC and the power toggle and lamp all in a line, out of the way and close together for easy wiring.

I agree unpainted.

The handle.  Do you have a particular handle in mind?  In any case, the handle holes are fine -- even if we use different handles the holes are good for vents and not too large to be a problem.

The mic cable connector.  Binder 691 7-pin female panel mount connector, looks great.  Where are these available, or will they be included? 

Size.  Finally, are these about the same size as the Neumanns?  I would prefer a bit larger footprint, if possible, same height, simply because they're always cramped and it makes innovation and DIYing new ideas harder in tight quarters.
 
tommypiper said:
Looks great.  Love the shape and layout and U style. 

What is the metal, aluminum?

I agree with the small starter holes.

I think the hole configuration is great.  It puts the EIC and the power toggle and lamp all in a line, out of the way and close together for easy wiring.

I agree unpainted.

The handle.  Do you have a particular handle in mind?  In any case, the handle holes are fine -- even if we use different handles the holes are good for vents and not too large to be a problem.

The mic cable connector.  Binder 691 7-pin female panel mount connector, looks great.  Where are these available, or will they be included? 

Size.  Finally, are these about the same size as the Neumanns?  I would prefer a bit larger footprint, if possible, same height, simply because they're always cramped and it makes innovation and DIYing new ideas harder in tight quarters.


20–22 gauge steel.

Handle = Ampeg style or Fender style or others

binder connectors available from binderusa.com or from groupbuy that I will start when EQU47 mic bodies are in production.

These have a larger footprint than the Neumanns, whose footprint is W=100 x H=120 x D=220
 
Skylar,

Just want to compliment your attention to detail is superb..

I'd like the power light hole to be small enough for a LED for the "pimp on a budget", but placed where it can be enlarged to fit a jewel light for those needing bling factor. I'd also recommend it be moved to the controls side so you can see if it's hot or not...

Handles, starter holes for a couple different types would be great!


 
Hello Skylar,

congrats for your great work!

I agree on the IEC, XLR, and Binder connector holes because those are big or oddly shaped and can be a pita for the average diyer.
But I think that the other holes should be be left out. I mean some people may prefer a small led in the front side... some others won't need the patern switch, or will want it higher in order to use a bigger knob, or on the left side so they could add another knob (variable polarization for instance). Same for the handle, according to location, source, or scavenged parts, the footprints are many!
All those holes are small and easy to diy, especially on an unpainted box. So my vote is: keep it simple, cheap, and easy to diy.

Axel
 
Hi Skylar ! Nice copy if ... made like the vintage one ! IMHO, i'd avoid the damned LED and will prefer an NE-2 neon glow  . How do you get the square holes ? punching ? ;)
Hi Axel , what about the sound of the SN312 ?  ;)
 
So, what I'm hearing is that you guys are wanting different hole sizes and different configurations.


We know that everyone will want an IEC connector.
I think the majority will want a toggle switch (as opposed to a rocker, pushbutton, etc.)
I think the majority will want a top handle of some sort.
Other than these, I think you guys are going to want to apply your own brand of "pimp."


What if the only holes are the IEC holes, toggle switch hole, and a few different hole configs on top for various handle types?
That leaves a lot of configure-ability and saves some fab time on holes that everyone will need/want.
 
Skylar said:
What if the only holes are the IEC holes, toggle switch hole, and a few different hole configs on top for various handle types?
That leaves a lot of configure-ability and saves some fab time on holes that everyone will need/want.

Fine.  The IEC is the only major pain to cut DIY, the rest are easily drilled ourselves.  So if people want to drill most of the others on their own that's okay with me.

How does everyone feel about different holes on the top for handles?  Seems un-elligant to have bunch of holes on the top after you've already put your handle on.  No big deal... But seems if everyone wants to drill their own holes we should keep the top free of too many extra holes.  And there's a million different handle options.  I thought the holes would be a good idea if there was an original Neumann type of handle that we had identified, and drill holes for it.  Otherwise I vote for minimal / no holes on the top.

I haven't seen a handle yet like the old Neumanns with brackets that allow the handle to lie flat, then when you lift it comes up to make space for your fingers.  Classy.  I'll post a link here if I find one....

EDIT: Ok found some examples.  I wouldn't buy these since they're not leather,but you get the idea of the brackets...
http://www.americanhandle.com/flat.htm
Look at ASSEMBLY 231-7422-9926 and ASSEMBLY 610R-5185-7215 near bottom of page.
 
I would easily compromize on the toggle switch (could always replace it by a lamp or a fuse holder ;D) but my point was mainly that any circular hole with a diameter inforior to 13mm is easy to DIY....

About the handle, I think that a nice vintage looking handle beside a few unused and useless spares holes would look pretty ugly and at least "un-proffessional"...
Look at the link that Tommypiper posted; only one source and already 7 different holes configurations!!!!!

In any case, everybody will have to drill some holes, so a couple more won't hurt...

Axel

(Wagtbtoobz: SN312 may be a bit off topic, so I'll PM you)
 
Looks great!  My only comment is that I strongly feel that any handle holes should be left out completely.  I am probably going to elect for one of the "other" handles, and I probably wouldn't buy one if there were a bunch of extra holes in the top (like one of those universal rack trays).  Also, this is a DIY forum, and if someone can't neatly drill 2-4 holes in mild steel, then...

OK, I'll shut up now...  ;D
 
Hi Skylar,

I would add my vote for no handle holes. As the Emperor said ...

As far as everything else, I think your pictures at the top of the thread look perfect. I wouldn't change a thing. Pilot lite, good, Toggle switch, good. XLR, Binder holes, good!

Excellent work.

Best,

Dan
 
How about this then:

IEC holes ONLY


That's the only thing that everyone's going to use.
You'll have a totally blank slate from there.
 
I would be in favor of IEC and XLR/Binder holes (w/ mounting screw holes).

IEC's are definitely a pain, but XLR/Binder's can be tricky too because of their size and sometimes odd little appendages (as stated earlier).

Just sayin'

Mike
 
Echo North said:
I would be in favor of IEC and XLR/Binder holes (w/ mounting screw holes).

IEC's are definitely a pain, but XLR/Binder's can be tricky too because of their size and sometimes odd little appendages (as stated earlier).

I'm with Echo North - but I'm in either way - looks great, Ben :)
 
Skylar said:
How about this then:

IEC holes ONLY


That's the only thing that everyone's going to use.
You'll have a totally blank slate from there.


Are some people proposing to use XLR-7 then, instead of Binders?

It would seem a little wasteful if everyone who wanted to use Binder connectors had to go out and by a big steel punch. If you're punching for the IEC, you might as well punch for the Binder too.

Is anyone not going to use XLR for the output?

 
1 vote for ...

XLR+BINDER+IEC


;D ;D ;D


but then if somebody simply needs a psu for an existing microphone the binder hole could be stupid ??

maybe you should split the binder groupbuy in two.

1) male mic + female cable for the equ47 project
2) female chassis + male cable together with the psu project

so everyone who simply needs a psu only can cut off his xlr7 and use a beautiful binder connector that comes with the psu.
 

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