Etching Own Face plates

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My understanding is that if the cathode is the same metal as the anode in the appropriate electrolyte eg brass or copper-brass or copper and copper sulphate solution, then you can re-use the solution indefinitely as the copper ions are being replaced. I just used a chrome oven shelf so eventually I'll need to replace the solution but I didn't have to worry about silver solder. I think lead solder contaminates the solution somehow.I don't really know a great deal about it. Also, for best results, the cathode should be slightly smaller than the anode. My set-up was the same as the picture except for the power supply. I stuck #2 to the panel with school book contact. Sticky cheap plastic stuff. Because it's a direct electrical process you don't need to worry to much about the back, as long as there's a electrical contact. The position of the cathode in solution is not important. Only the distance to the anode plays a part as to resistance etc. You can etch vertically.If your power supply is being over worked you can weaken your solution with water.
 
Ptownkid said:
You wouldn't need to "bond" them per se, as the pots and nuts and other misc screws and fasteners would do that for you.

@Rob, i would think that using thin brass (like the Home Depot kickplate option) and some kind backing material would be cheaper than getting brass in 1/8" or thicker...


It sure would save a little bit oh money, but in the same aspect it's a cleaner way to go with an single piece. Let me go through the pain with my PM660 and I'll let you know if I would do it again.

Kaz
 
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