mounting toroid to case bottom. bolt too big and case won't fit in rack

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> Invented in 1750

The sliding-jaw vice.

As that article says, Jesus' Dad probably had a vice; such things may have been old when Moses was a boy.
 
PRR said:
Jesus' Dad probably had a vice;
I was amazed to find that our local police department had a "squad" dedicated to investigating vices. Perhaps they inspect them for safety, parallel jaws, make sure the threads are lubed.... :)

Everybody needs a vice.
 

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If you have two of the  dished mounting plate washers (that comes with the torodial) and the material of the case is soft enough (aluminium), you can use them as a tool. Put them on each side of the hole (bulge facing up), insert bolt and then tighten the nut until the depression is deep enough.  You can use a flat head bolt made for a square hole (see pic) as well.
 

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I'm really late to the party on this (found it in a search for PEM nuts), but I've done this with a drill, bolt, ratchet and a little PVC.

You need some STRONG hardware, but essentially you drill a hole where you want the bolt for the toroid to go.  I typically use 1/4-20 stuff for this.  Get a grade 8 or better 1/4-20 bolt that's plenty long (longer than you'd need for the toroid for sure) some matching nuts, some thick flat and fender washers (you might need to upsize a couple of times) and a high pressure PVC or metal pipe.

The order would go something like this:

Bolt --> (thick) Flat washer (or two) ---> hole in bottom of chassis ---> 1" (or so) I.D. metal pipe/PVC --> large fender washer (multiples for extra thickness/strength) maybe a flat washer, and finally a nut.

Grab a wrench and a ratchet and go to town.  The 1/4-20 bolt will pull against the chassis panel and the 1" I.D. pipe will limit the area the 1/4-20 bolt will deform.  Keep crankin' on the ratchet until you create a deep enough dimple to mount the toroid.

 

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