Sound Skulptor: Pre's, Compressors, Tape Simulator, Professionnal Audio Kits

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Just picked up the CP5176  as well as a JLM LA500. Should be fun! These will be my first builds ever.
 
Hi!

I built a MC624 a couple months ago and I am having issues with some of the combine/compare buttons. It has been a problem since the beginning, but it has worked great as a i/o router, so I have not bothered to address the issues.

When I select Mono, it mutes the signal entirely, and the Diff button solos one of the channels. This does not happen on headphones, so it must have to do with the signal going to the outputs. I am guessing + and - signals are getting flipped somewhere in the routing, but I will see if you have any thoughts. Please let me know. Thanks!

(and all that said, the build was easy and I'm very happy with the quality of the unit!)
 
The mono and diff switching takes place before the headphone/monitor fork.
Make sure that the balanced/unbalanced setting is correct for the input. An unbalanced signal on an input that is set balanced would not allow the diff switch to work.
A muted mono could be caused by a non working U3. Check supply on pin 4 (-16V) and pin 8 (+16V), relatively to GND. But it would happen both on the headphone and monitor outputs.
 
Well, I just discovered that my interface has impedance balanced i/o.

Everything is working great now with the input set to unbalanced. Thanks for your quick reply!
 
The error is corrected, thank you for reporting.
http://www.soundskulptor.com/docs/cp5176-partslist-01.pdf
 
Excellent video. Thank you.
Do not forget, at the end, the little drop of glue that thermally links the 2 diodes to the heatsinks. They will prevent possible thermal runaway.
When un-soldering a component, if you can't heat all the pins at the same time, it is always safer to sacrifice the component and remove one pin at a time. Otherwise, the risk of breaking the via that connects the top and bottom pads is very high.
Do you need a replacement inductor?
 
Thank you!  :)
I was out of glue and added that later.
I took the inductor from the second kit I ordered but need to order electronic parts anyway. ;-)
All the best,
Goetz
 
Just built my first MP573. Great instructions and an easy build, though I only have experience building 2-3 stomp boxes.

The sound! I've tried it on female vocals, acc guitar (ribbon mic and cranked pre), bass and snare drum. It sounds classic!

I will surely purchase and build some more of these.

How is the difficulity compared to the CP5176 ?
 
mp566-200.jpg


New MP566, 500 series tube pre, released. Look on page 1.
 
Just noticed the 500 tube preamp, nice!
can you comment, is it similar to the GIX design that ran as a grp buy,
dc-dc converter for the B+ ? really road tested & reliable ?
1:10 ratio on the input xfmr ? how much of the " gain " comes from that?
Thanks & regards
 
Winetree said:
I've got  2 - Mp66s in a rack.
Is there any sound difference between the MP66 and the MP566?

Same here.  One obvious difference is that the original MP66 has two tubes, whereas this MP566 only has one. Not sure how that would affect the sound. However, I'm sure that, like all Sound Skulptor offerings, it is a great piece of gear.
 
Hello all,

I recently purchased and assembled the MC624, great kit! It was well packed, easy to assemble, and looks great! Thanks so much!

However, I've run into an issue during testing and was hoping someone could help point me in the right direction.

I got to step 4 in the testing guide, the digital test.  The level encoder knob works, the 7-segment display functions normally.  The input LEDs, however, behave erratically.  Some don't light up at all, others only light after multiple presses, some light but then revert to the previous selection.

The output 1 LED is lit, but the other switches won't light.  The switches in the middle (Mute, Dim, etc.) do not light at all.

I think the switch soldering and connections between front panel and main PCB are good, but i don't have a lot of experience with digital logic.  Anyone have any thoughts?

TIA
 
Hi Idiophonic,
Double check that the resistor networks RN1 to  RN7 are inserted in the correct direction (white dot on one side). If, eventually, one would be in the wrong direction, do not  try to unsolder it . Slash it first into 1 pin pieces, then remove the bits.
 
JPK,

Thanks for the prompt and accurate reply.  I indeed had RN2 and RN3 reversed.  With  a professional desolder station they came right out, went back in, and the rest of the testing/calibration went smoothly.

Thanks again for the prompt reply and the great kit! Cheers!
 

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