Next, I install CR3, CR4, CR5, and CR6 because I need the cut-off legs from these diodes to mount the small DI sub-board to the main PCB. Polarity matters when mounting the diodes. Makes sure the end of the diode with the solid line corresponds with the little arrow mark on the PCB when mounting these.
The small DI sub-board goes here:
Per Jeff's notes in the support thread, I secure 3 corners first. Except I did not populate the board prior to assembly. I figured it would be easier to clamp without any components mounted, and a quick study of the board seemed to indicate I would not have any problems installing any necessary components after it is attached to the main PCB.
I used 2 clamps to ensure solid contact between the 2 boards prior to soldering.
. . . and corners are tacked in.
The rest of the appropriate holes are filled . . .
. . . and the 2 boards all soldered together.
After the boards are solidly attached, I set about populating the DI sub-board.
The 3 small toggle switches that control DI functions look like this:
They are a bit tricky to position for mounting. I ended up securing them like this:
and then, I added a piece of tape to put some downward pressure on the main PCB so the switches pressed firmly against the PCB.
I then soldered only one of the main mount lugs on each of the switches so that fine adjustments could still be made to the final position.
Then, it was back to re-assembly to make sure everything was lining up still.
. . . and I decided I could reach all of the switch solder lugs with the chassis attached. So that's how I soldered them in.
Jeff's notes said the pins for SW1 need to be trimmed to fit the small PCB that supports the 1/4" jack.
That small PCB goes here:
And the jack mounts like this. . .
Jeff's notes warned about the possibility of the PCB being longer than the jack housing, and mine was by a hair, so I used some 220 sandpaper on the table to grind down a little bit of the PCB's front edge.
. . . good to go.
I think I did the next set differently than described in the support thread, but it seemed to have worked out. First, I placed the connector without soldering.
Then, I inserted the jack/PCB (also not yet soldered together) into the front panel hole at an angle. . . and then rotated the assembly into the connecting pins.
I then secured the nut for the DI jack to lock everything in place.
The way I saw it, I could reach all of the significant solder lugs from the outside with the PCB attached to the chassis and the jacks/pots attached to the faceplate. I thought that would give me the best shot at perfect alignment of parts, so I soldered everything with the front panel attached.
Progress. . . all of the key front panel elements are now precisely aligned. From building the VP26, I know the 3 push button switches have a lot of margin, so chances are, they will not be problematic if the rest of the pots and switches are aligned with the PCB, L bracket, and front panel reasonably well.