Soldering speaker voice coil lead trouble (aluminum solder)

Hi All,

I have a JBL K120 that I thought had a burnt voice coil. Turns out that one of the leads on the face of the cone just went open. I scraped off the epoxy type stuff covering it and have got the lead that heads down to the voice coil exposed but the problem I'm having is that solder won't stick to it.

I also applied some silver epoxy earlier today but scraped it off; I'm not sure what it's like after it cures for a day or two (it's my first time using the stuff), but it was reading some too high and intermittent resistances after half a day. I also am not sure if it would be too brittle once cured.

The side that goes down the the speaker terminal is no problem, there's already solder there. I don't know what they did to get things to stick together in the first place.

Any thoughts?

i had this on a guitar speaker, couldn't get the end clean enough to re-solder, made a right mess in the process.
i took off the centre dust cover to get at more of the coil connection. the extra length you get inside here will enable a better physical connection before you join them properly, then glue it down. worked for me.

theres probably better ways,
also... a bit of blue tack was handy as a grip when replacing the dust cap, saves getting glue everywhere when you put it back.

Think you need a special solder as the voice coil is made of flat aluminium wire!

It did appear to be aluminum. What kind of solder would be suitable for this?

Also, what is a suitable glue/epoxy for working on speakers? The black stuff applied to this speaker is very strong yet not rigid or brittle.

If copper...
Good old rosin 60/40 tin lead...
Hot iron ...get a ball of melted solder and flux , then gently tease the end for 30 secs on the blade
of the iron....adding some  rework flux as approppriate......stroke off all the crap with the iron
leavinging clean metal...
If aluminium  !!
good luck 

For those who are interested in aluminum soldering: I did a little bit of internet research and it seems that the reason this is difficult is because aluminum quickly develops a layer of oxidation when exposed to air. I read that scrubbing the surface to be soldered in oil of some sort and then soldering it can work.

I just ended up crimping a crimp terminal onto the voice coil lead and flowing solder over the crimp. Then I just soldered the other end of the terminal to the existing solder joint.

I spoke to a fellow at a recone place and he recommended simply using 2 part epoxy to glue things on speakers cones. So I glued the whole bit back on with some of this.

Continuity and DC resistance seem great and the speaker is working! Hopefully my patch job holds up in the long run.