Milling Machine Experiences?

Hi!

I'm in the market for a smallish milling machine, and wondered if anyone had any experience, recommendations or warnings that they'd like to share.

As you might have guessed, I mostly need it for making and modifying small mechanical components for microphones, so I don't need anything huge.


But I've read that a bigger, heavier mill is generally the way to go because vibration problems are minimised.

I don't need CNC at this stage, but I like the idea of mills like Sherline, which are future-upgradable to CNC. They do nice all-in accessory sets too.

http://www.sherline.com/

I could probably manage about GBP1000,*  but would prefer to spend less, of course.
(stupid pound sign doesn't work!)

My other thought was to get something as cheap as I can, as a learning experience, and buy something bigger later when I've learned enough to know what I really need.

Anyway, thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments - they are appreciated.

Stewart

i'm still finding my way, but for reference, my CNC machine was around $600 USD with everything.

However, it still needs tuning to make it super accurate. I'm currently getting around 0.2mm accuracy.

/R

(www.zentoolworkscnc).

your mileage may vary, and there may be better stuff out there.

What do you want to do with it?  How much backlash will you put up with?  What metals, plastic etc do you want to machine?

I would get at least XY DRO's with a mill.  This can help with backlash issues by letting you move back and forth to the X,Y, also you can calculate Polar to Cartesian on a piece of paper and then use the X,Y to drill holes, say in a backplate with out the use of a rotary table.

Rochey - thanks for the suggestion. Your link doesn't work for me, but I'll google them in a bit.

Gus, excuse my ignorance. What do you mean by DRO?

I need it for many materials - mostly brass, sliver, aluminium, perspex, nylon, phenolic, and on occasions the softer end of iron & steel (ribbon mounts and magnets).

A typical job last week was to make new ribbon clamps from bakelite and brass for an old ribbon mic. I did it by hand, but would be neater and faster with a machine.

I'm not planning on making condenser backplates myself at this stage. It's an avenue I'd like to explore one day, but not this year. But I guess I wouldn't want to exclude it either.

Thanks!

Type "DRO mini mill" in google

Digital read out.

Thanks Gus. The Sherline mills have that as an option, along with the CNC motor mounts.

Looks like you can DIY them too, from digital calipers.

The DRO stuff from this UK company is :-

1) Excellent quality
2) Amazing price
3) Full range of slides Etc.
4) Very helpful staff
5) Look at their other ranges of bits.

http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.php?target=categories&category_id=71

Frank

Also check J&L. In '97 I bought a full shebang from them.

http://www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk/EXE-38120B/SEARCH:CATEGORY/product.html

I would go for larger machine than those Proxxon type machines that are aimed at hobbyist modellers. You can get ones with single phase if you don't have 3 phase. You'll be surprised how quickly you'll wish that you had a larger machine.

But be prepared to spend another couple of hundred pounds on very basic fittings and fixtures.

Thanks! That one looks nice!

Click to expand...

Is the rotating motor a big advantage over a clamp / vice that rotates?

But be prepared to spend another couple of hundred pounds on very basic fittings and fixtures.

Click to expand...

It's budgeted for, to an extent, but these things are like a runaway train...

The Proxxon wasn't entirely meant as a serious solution. Although it might get most of my jobs done, I do need some degree of precision.

Hello Zebra,

I'd suggest the machine Sahib posted as the smallest possible size. In fact, I'd go for X3, whatever name it bears in UK:

http://www.mini-lathe.com/X3_mill/Sx3rvw/SX3-4.htm

It is bigger, heavier and more rigid for what you want to do.

Don't get anything smaller than that. I got through quite a few machines, including micro-mill and mini-mill and outgrew either very fast--the same goes to Sherline. YOu definitely do not want anything like that Proxxon! For cutting iron the spindles are not fast and rigid enough to move enough chips--you will need to take very light passes and trust me--it is annoying and irritating like hell!!! The columns are flimsy and flex even with a finger push. Another problem, they have very small clearance between tool and table--major screw up when you start working with rotary table (and you will need one--get 6").

Not long ago I got 800 pound RF32 mill, but would not recommend anything with round column. I have to modify mine for the column keeping index and got it only because I just could not resist ridiculously low price. Eventually, I'd like to CNC it, but would greatly prefer having RF45--the same head and table, but square column--if you can afford and have place for that one, I am sure it would serve you for many years of happy milling:

http://www.lathemaster.com/HEAVYDUTYMILLINGMACHINE%207045FG.htm

All of those are sold in UK under different brand names, but you won't have any problem finding them.

Don't forget, other than the mill you will need whole bunch of accessories and tooling. Put at least $500 to that part.

If you need DROs, I might part with mine, so let me know.

Best, M

P.S. I'd also look at new X4:

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Reviews/SX4/sx4-rvw.htm

zebra50 said:

Is the rotating motor a big advantage over a clamp / vice that rotates?

Click to expand...

In one word, yes! It is much easier to tram the head than to setup for squareness and parallelism the vise.

Best, M

I have an X3 mill like the one Marik posted a link to, and it's been a decent little machine, though I sometimes find myself wishing for something a little bigger like an RF45.  Will you be using it to mill panels for rack gear?  If so, get something with a large enough table.  The X3 has a decent size table, but with only 16" of X-axis movement, I find myself having to set up twice if I need to mill the full length of a panel.

A DRO would be nice, but it's kind of fun just runnin' by the dials.

Also, keep in mind that the general rule seems to be that you will need to spend at least as much on tooling as you will on the mill (collets, clamps, a good milling vice, cutters, rotary table, parallels, boring head,etc etc).  Then you'll want a bandsaw, a lathe, grinder, etc. It's great fun!

I built my own CNC router but If I was getting a Mill I would start here!! Under a grand and there are kits to retro to cnc latter if needed.
Also check out www.cnczone.com




http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Mill-with-Stand/G0704

Links from mini-lathe.com web site

http://www.mini-lathe.com/mini_mill/reviews/sx4/sx4-rvw.htm

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Bench-Top-Milling-Machine/G0720

I like using Bridgeports

Thanks for all the links and suggestions. I can swallow some extra cost, but it may have to wait until the next financial period if I go much over £1K - will have to check with the accountant.

I'm a bit concerned about the size and weight of some of the larger ones and how they'll fit my workshop - I really need to go look at some in real life before I commit.

just an FYI on my machine (the zentoolworks cnc machine).

I milled my own pcb today It's awsome.

I've also worked with Anodized aluminum and with acrylic.

/R

@Rochey: PICS !?

Gus said:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heavy-Duty-Bench-Top-Milling-Machine/G0720

Click to expand...

I was in Grizzly store a few weeks and they did not have one on display, yet. But this one has MT4 spindle taper--how disappointing!

Best, M

zebra50 said:

I'm a bit concerned about the size and weight of some of the larger ones and how they'll fit my workshop - I really need to go look at some in real life before I commit.

Click to expand...

Well, yes! I had to buy a 2 ton shop crane to juggle with all those toys. Even a "lighter" X3 is not much fun to lift. You will need at least 4 strong guys (and might do some disassembling, first).

Best, M

@Rochey
When you say 'I've also worked with Anodized aluminum'... Do you mean you could mill say an IEC hole, or engrave a front panel?

Axel