I hate the Soundcraft K2!!!

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usekgb

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2006
Messages
454
Location
Salt Lake City, UT USA
Can I just tell everyone how much I hate working on Soundcarft K2's?  In order to pull channel 24, you have to remove the bottom panel, ribbon cable, mute group connectors on the entire left side of the mixer, all the pot caps, all the nuts, the fader, and a couple more screws!  what a PITA!!!!!  This is all due to the fused resistor on the positive rail somehow physically shorting out with +48.  How the hell did that happen?  Digikey doesn't sell 1/4W 10R fused resistors either.  To add insult to injury, the ELCO connector is burned, as well as the +48V trace on the PCB.  I think I found a replacement for the ELCO from 3M, but the fused resistors are becoming a problem.

If this isn't bad enough, this mixer has to be operational ASAP.  It's in a very busy live room, and can't run 2 channels short for very long.  Whew.  There's my rant for the night.

Cheers,
Zach
 
Well, what do you expect for a desk which sold for a low price-point?  What you describe is typical for the majority/all of inexpensive desks sold the past decade or two.  Full modularity went by the wayside 'cuz folks looked only at the price tag.  Just be glad you don;t have to service a Mackie (and similar)....to get to the circuit card, you have to remove all the knobs and nuts to gain access to a card which is 99% all surface mounted parts.

Pricing reality check:

http://www.vintageking.com/API-1608-Discrete-16-Channel-Console?sc=18&category=337

http://www.vintageking.com/Rupert-Neve-Designs-5088-16-Channel-16x-5032?sc=18&category=921

http://www.vintageking.com/Tonelux-Model-1628-Console?sc=18&category=496

Line level ONLY inputs (no mic preamps), no EQ:

http://www.speck.com/price_list.html


As for the resistors, look at the Vishay metal film resistors which are flame-proof.  The 1 watt versions are the same physical size as a "regular" 1/4 W metal film/whatever.

best,

Bri

 
I hear you Brian.  When I finished the Series Five in the other room, I got the "privilege" to work on the K2.  The Series Five is a dream to work on in comparison.  Oh yeah.......  I get a Mackie next week.  :-X

Cheers,
Zach
 
Brian Roth said:
As for the resistors, look at the Vishay metal film resistors which are flame-proof.  The 1 watt versions are the same physical size as a "regular" 1/4 W metal film/whatever.

I was actually talking about the 10R fused resistors on the power rails.  It's a special resistor that is supposed to fail if something really bad happens.  Unfortunately, one of them didn't fail, and caused all sorts of damage when it shorted.  Any ideas on where to get those?

Cheer,
Zach
 
usekgb said:
Brian Roth said:
As for the resistors, look at the Vishay metal film resistors which are flame-proof.  The 1 watt versions are the same physical size as a "regular" 1/4 W metal film/whatever.

I was actually talking about the 10R fused resistors on the power rails.  It's a special resistor that is supposed to fail if something really bad happens.  Unfortunately, one of them didn't fail, and caused all sorts of damage when it shorted.  Any ideas on where to get those?

Cheer,
Zach

I have some of those.  PM me with your mailing address, and I'll stick some in an envelope for you.
Best,
Bruno2000
 
usekgb said:
I was actually talking about the 10R fused resistors on the power rails.  It's a special resistor that is supposed to fail if something really bad happens.  Unfortunately, one of them didn't fail, and caused all sorts of damage when it shorted. 

Oh, excellent, the circuit was designed to fail and protect the fuse.

-a
 
I found a couple of choices in 10 ohm fusible resistors....in 1/4 and 1/3 Watt ratings...at mouser:

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/Through-Hole-Resistors/Metal-Film-Resistors/_/N-7h7zbZscv7?P=1z0x89i&Keyword=fusible+resistor&FS=True

Best,

Bri
 
Nice.  I'm not sure how I missed those.  I searched for fuse(d) resistor, not fusable.  The only things that came up had crazy minimum order quantities.  Thanks for finding those!  Spec sheet calls for 1%, with two in parallel, in line with the +17 and -17 volt rails.  I think 5% would be ok, but I'm not sure about 10%.  I guess I could hand match them.

Cheers,
Zach
 
Actually, I initially hit a blank with the spelling fusAble.....spelling fusIble hit paydirt.

Never seen those parts used in parallel....I guess that's why they spec'ed 1% parts???

Best,

Bri
 
> In order to pull channel 24, you have to remove the bottom panel, ribbon cable, mute group connectors on the entire left side of the mixer, all the pot caps, all the nuts, the fader, and a couple more screws!  what a PITA!!!!!

Try replacing the rag-joint on a 1975 Ford Ranchero.

Rag-joint is a flex in the steering. It used to be rubberized canvas, but 1970s Ford used an "improved" polyurethane biscuit. Which cracks-up and falls out. Three-inch slop at the wheel, banging on the safety-stops.

The ragjoint is below the power brake, behind the steering box, tight to the frame and floor/firewall, and the exhaust-pipe is in the way too.

It is actually possible for a nimble youth with the right part to do it in place. My older neighbor ended up taking off the LF wheel, took out the inner fender (and all the cruft on it), loosened the outer fender, took the steering box right out, started taking the dashboard out but was stopped by secret screws (anyway the steering column must be dismasted first). Then taking the wrong part to a machine shop to get the safety-studs going the other way. Last I saw there were parts ALL over the shop, he had about 13 hours in, and another 3-13 hours to get the major parts back on.

He hopes to turn a $1,700 buy into a $2,700 sale but it's getting pretty close to break-even.

That's not counting the weak battery. He's got the alternator out but I'm 99% sure the alt is fine, he's got a bad connection somewhere. (My '79 Thunderbird, same car with a back seat, the big stuff never failed but all the silly dinky stuff gave trouble.)

OH! At least you had screws and connectors. On the '75-'79 Ranchero/Tbird, to replace the heater motor, you put a paper template on the inner fender and start cutting steel. That's the factory specified way to get it out. The factory replacement motor comes with a piece of tin to cover the hole you gotta make.
 
The K2 is all better now, and the channels I repaired are working great.  I'm in the middle of a Mackie 24.4 right now.  Blown power supply caps, scorching on the PS PCB from the rectifier diodes running too hot, expanded output caps, etc......  I think the board should just be replaced, but my client wants it fixed.  So be it.  I will be happy to send him a bill when it's all done.  ;D

Cheers,
Zach
 

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