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flashback, this is Cupertino Bike Shop on Randy Ln, bought many a component from Lillian who was always nice, but Spence was a bit crabby most of the time and did not like to be bothered, handled Masi frames also, with everything drilled out for light weight, chain rings, brake levers,

"Spence and Lillian Wolfe at their Cupertino Bike Shop. Spence, who then drove bottom-dump semis for Kaiser Permanente in Monta Vista, opened the Cupertino Bike Shop in their garage on Randy Lane in Cupertino, California in 1953. They only dealt in quality lightweights and became West Coast importers for Cinelli frames for many years. They did a lot of special order sales and never had a large stock on hand but what they carried was always top quality including marques like Alex Singer. Spence was also a bike mechanic of "guru" stature and collaborated with the Phil Wood company on their component designs."
 

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here is a Cinelli with some of the Spence Wolfe mods, rear hanger and crankset tapped for an Alpine ring,

notice the brake housing clamps, Cino Cinelli did not like braze-ons as he thought they weakened the tubing,

Campy handlebar shifters also,
 

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last hi-jack,  ;D

Spence Wolf / Cupertino Bike Shop reproduction MAFAC brake booster plate

 

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@CJ: For the spoke length, I used an online calculator; there's a bunch of them out there, and they handle all the tricky math, like the deep 'dish' needed for 10/11-speed sprocket-clusters. With the deeper 'aero' rims, you need to know the ERD (equivalent rim diameter) of course... i.e. the diameter of the 'theoretical' circle which forms the nipple-seats.

To lace up the rim (since the hoop was damaged) it was as easy as pie: All I did was paper-tape one side of the new hoop (to protect it from scratches) and zip-tied the two hoops side by side, then loosened off all the nipples, and transferred the spokes one by one from the old hoop to the new one. -Then tighten to an even number of thread turns showing, then just gradually go up in tension. -I recorded the 'notes' of the spokes on the old hoop, and matched the new 'notes' approximately, before final truing. -Not too tricky.

My son's aero rims were assembled with loctite... I'll never do THAT again! -The rear needs a little truing, and it's an absolute bastard. -I can't break the loctite! (I'm going to try soaking the joints in acetone, but I don't want to get it on the tires, and I doubt that those fancy decals will survive, either! -It takes patience and a little thought, but wheel truing isn't impossible, if you have a little 'mechanical sympathy'.

Ohhhhh...yeaaaaaah... MAFAC center-pulls, and 'red' brake pads... The Harry Quinns used to come with those! -The more I get back into cycling (I used to ride as a schoolboy, and finally saved up and bought a blue Harry Quinn when I got my first studio job, but the crazy hours meant I just never really rode it. -I ended up selling it, and now I feel like the buy who let his '58 Les Paul go for a hundred bucks because he wasn't playing it much.) the more I really crave a beautiful lugged steel frame. -When they were made with love, they were absolutely gorgeous!
 
Yesterday a storm blew through, and there were tree branches/debris all over the local bike trail, so I took out the old treaded-tire Cro-moly-framed commuter bike... Did my usual 22 mile route, but rather slower than usual.

When exercise is the primary objective -as others have noted- bike weight isn't as important, and with the trail surface being wet, the heavier frame also does indeed help with the mechanical grip. -If I was riding a 'century' though, there's no way I'd take that bike, though! (plus, I noticed my hands were feeling a little numb... must check the steering tube bearings; I suspect a little 'slack'.)

With the prices of the super-light bikes, it's ALWAYS a hell of a lot cheaper to get a 'ten-pounds-lighter' rider, than a 'ten-pounds-lighter' bike!!!
 
SSLtech said:
With the prices of the super-light bikes, it's ALWAYS a hell of a lot cheaper to get a 'ten-pounds-lighter' rider, than a 'ten-pounds-lighter' bike!!!

It's cheaper, but oh man is it a lot more difficult!

-a
 
yes there are many arguments on the Locktite issue,

you probably want to use blue locktite,

where do you use it?

some mechanics put grease on the spoke threads and locktite where the nipple hits the rim face,

or you can wash the spokes with solvent and put blue locktite on the threads,

Wheelsmith sells a compound for the spokes which may be a bit less aggressive,

i know someone who mixes the locktite with another chemical, but he will not tell me what it is,

if you use locktite, you will want to use a pair of small vice grips to hold the spoke while using a spoke wrench that has the fourth face on it, these are usually used to tighten alloy nipples,

oil on spoke nipples will eventually get diluted with rain water, you can see this as a light brown residue that will eventually work it's way outside the nipple, (that sounds weird, don't it?  :eek: )

anyway, Spence Wolfe was the best wheel builder in the world as far as i know it, anybody who was lucky enough to own a set of his wheels has sworn by them, twenty to thirty years of riding and they are as straight as an arrow, nobody knows exactly how he did it, but they do know that Locktite was involved, so i use locktite, he had rim holes drilled differently, possibly in a straight line, or maybe with more offset, i do not know what the mojo was on that, he also used to measure Campy hubs with calipers to make sure the spoke holes were drilled perfectly,  spacing and diameter had to be exact, maybe touch up the countersinking,

"Spence’s Shop

Cupertino Bike Shop started as a project in Spence Wolf’s garage. After failing to find a local shop that carried tubular tires in the late 1940’s, Spence began to manufacture them himself, setting up shop in the garage next to the home he shared with his wife, Lillian. Word of Spence’s considerable prowess as a wheel builder and mechanic soon spread, and before long there were riders lining up on his front lawn every Saturday morning. By 1953, Spence and Lillian officially went into business, and Cupertino Bike Shop opened its doors.

“He built the shop on his attention to detail. He was extremely meticulous and methodical. Everything had to be perfect, it had to be right, and it had to work,” says Vance Sprock, who currently owns the store with his wife, Cynthia.

The first and only shop in the area to perform custom bike builds, as well as bring Cinellis and Singers on to American pavement, its reputation quickly grew. Spence’s ingenuity not only lead to wheels that are still on the road and true thirty years later, but also to such innovations as the “Wolf/Alpine Modification,” a pulley extension arm Spence machined to work with Camagnolo Nuovo Record rear derailleurs, allowing for a wider range of gearing. A set of arms with Campy rollers sold for $17.

Spence’s endless quest to build a better wheel resulted in scores of special orders for 24, 28, 32,40, and 48 hole rims from the French manufacturer Super Champion, as the 36 hole standard of the times did not match his own. In the late 70’s he convinced an unemployed machinist friend named Phil Wood to make a batch of 50 sealed bearing hubs ‘just to see if they’ll sell.’ Undoubtedly, we all know the end of that story.

Among many things that gives this store it’s remarkable staying power is the painstaking attention to detail by the owners, past and present.
“Things need to be done properly,” says Vance. “I’m here six, seven days a week… there’s a lot of dedication.”
“It really is a labor of love,” says Cynthia. The Sprocks have owned Cupertino Bike Shop for the past thirteen years.

The store still carries on the in the original spirit of Spence’s love for the sport by sponsoring Hellyer Velodrome, nurturing it’s own race team, and hosting one of the biggest annual swap meets in the Bay Area."
 
A good friend of mine works at Ray's Cycle in Fairfield (be kind). He's a bike head so probably does it for the discount on bikes.

1526724_10202229906762515_194926604_n.jpg


He also won best guitar player in MS contest when he worked here for Peavey years ago.

JR
 
...Assuming you mean Fairfield CA, -Ain't nuthin' wrong with that. -I've spent a lot of time up in Humboldt County, (no... not for THAT!) and there's some fine scenery and lots of great climbing all over northern CA.

My tool kit has an awful lot of "Park Tool Blue" in it. -I think it should be recognized as a Pantone landmark!

I weighed in this morning at 15lbs down, -about halfway to my target. -Once there, I hope that hill climbs will be a little easier... even though we don't exactly have much in the way of hills around here! (I've been told that the highest point in Florida is the top of the vehicle assembly building at NASA. -The foundation of that same building probably also forms the lowest point in Florida, since the building itself stands only a couple of feet above sea level!)
 
Yup, my friend lives in Benicia, CA and often commutes 10 miles each way to his day job (industrial designer) by bike. He took me out riding some the last time I visited with him..but nothing serious.

JR
 
> the way of hills around here! (I've been told that the highest point in Florida is the top of the vehicle assembly building at NASA.

I'd heard it was the spoil-pile at the phosphate mine in the panhandle. (I guess that is "dirt" versus "building".)

I had kin lived on top of Mt Dora, mid-state. At 150'-200', it would barely rate a name in flat South Jersey, but they were pretty proud of being so high. (For that matter, it's higher than I am here; but I'm much closer to the sea.)
 
I spent some time living on Custer Hill (Ft Riley, KS) That may have been the highest part of KS... all of a few hundred feet.

Where i live in MS can't be much above sea level. It's barely above the ground water level... :)

JR
 
The biggest CLIMB in Florida is about an 1 hr 20 mins from my house... "Sugarloaf Mountain"

It's listed as having a peak elevation of 312 Feet above sea level, and a "peak prominence" of 245 Feet... which I take to mean that the immediately surrounding elevation is around 67 feet above sea level.

Either way, in peak form I could climb it for a couple of repetitions, but not many... -My climbing skills -and muscles- are simply too weak! -By contrast I had a friend visiting the area from Montreal this winter, and he's a "real" cyclist. -I loaned him my SL, and we went out for a 55-mile ride, including some small rolling "hills"... He was kind enough not to kick my butt TOO hard up and down every single one of them, but I kept hearing him chuckle to himself about the fact that he was actually out riding in winter without multiple layers on, and the relative glass-smoothness of the roads. -Something I'd not considered is that the freeze/thaw cycles up there must cause substantial damage! -Anyhow, it certainly made me appreciate what I have, even in the absence of "real" hills!
 
In light of arthritis in my right knee I have just played my last game of basketball.  :(  I had to go there in person to cancel the membership, so played one last time (I won my last game).  ;D Then I limped around the food store to do my shopping. I am planning to hang up my running shoes too. I tried to run last week and it wasn't pretty. I may get away with some running on my treadmill, but that is really boring.  ::)

I am thinking of buying a bike... I did some riding on local back roads when I had plantar fasciitis about 10 years back and couldn't run but the skinny tires were tough to keep under control when some red-neck in a pick-up truck would use up all the paved surface and I had to negotiate the soft shoulder.

So now i'm thinking something with fatter tires, like the really old days bikes but new and re-invented of course.

I am cheap and would love to find something used, but one of my bike buddies is suggesting I check out a 29'r.  My friend the bike tech says the clamp in shoe pedals are better for my flaky knee because it keeps it in better alignment. If these (29r) are relatively new there won't be many used for sale. Guys upgrading to 29'rs may put some decent 26" bikes in the used market.

Any thoughts or other advice?

I probably need to put some more hours into my exercise bike (Schwin Airdyne i rarely use). Just to confirm that I can still pedal and not aggravate my arthritis.

Getting old is not for wimps.  8) I just mowed my lawn and I'm icing my knee because it needs ice.

JR
 
My wife used to get the fancy bikes (going back to when Peugeot good stuff), but didn't ride well.

I got her onto a Huffy 13-speed hill-bike and it works much better. Wider tires, less radical angles, higher bars.

I always liked my Raleigh-copy 3-speed. A working-man's bike, not a sportster.

If you are not (or no longer) the uber-athlete, and pedaling for a work-out instead of a time-trial, I really suggest trying the 1980s/1990s bikes sold at K-Mart etc. Some are (or have turned into) junk, but some are solidly built and proportioned for non-geeks. And found for $30 in yard sales.

Yes, put some hours on your stationary bike to be *sure* your knee will take it. (Mine won't, but my problem is over-cycling in my youth.) Then sell it (good luck!)-- we had an AirDyne and I think it is more trouble than it is worth.
 
PRR said:
Yes, put some hours on your stationary bike to be *sure* your knee will take it. (Mine won't, but my problem is over-cycling in my youth.) Then sell it (good luck!)-- we had an AirDyne and I think it is more trouble than it is worth.

I hit the air-dyne briefly a couple times a few weeks ago, logging a quick 100 kCal burn. I had to replace the battery in the bike computer but it seems to be working reasonably well. I do not recall any knee problems from those two times but since my knee has been quieting down (I've been on a strong NSAID for over a month and icing it daily) I can feel a more noticeable pain response associated with stressful use. I need to see if i can bear a longer roll and what the effect is, besides boredom.  8)

Another alternate is that I just walk my old jogging routes. It would take a lot longer to do but according to the physics involved a similar amount of work.

JR
 
There are some interesting cures for 'trainer boredom' these days, though since they're so costly, it's only of  academic interest here.

Bikes can be found used on Craigslist, and patience can find a nice one... but specially with a knee or other osteo issue, FIT is going to be critical... riding a poorly-fitting bike can do a LOT of damage...

I myself have a couple of Tacx 'Flow' trainers for my son and I. -These can be plugged into a computer with the appropriate software and internet access, you can specify a starting position anywhere on the Google-mapped face of the earth, and start riding.

The computer then manages the resistance to match the terrain, and you 'navigate' by steering just as you would in real life. -The screen shows the Google-earth street-level view... -The view is not particularly convincing, but it IS a great way to 'learn' a few basic routes around an unfamiliar city that you may be about to visit...

Speaking of which, I don't know if I mentioned I'm taking my son to see the Grand Depart of the Tour de France this year, then on from there to Venice, after which we head into the mountains and stay at a "B, B & B" (Bed, Breakfast & Bike) place near Monte Grappa. We all get carbon road bikes, food maps and scenery... though I' sure the wife will decide to go shopping much more than riding.

 
Is that where grappa comes from?
=====
With those Tacx trainers can you hook two of them together and race each other?
----
A friend of mine already checked the craigslist for near where I live and he said nothing looked good.

I can be patient... By fit are you talking about something other than seat height?

JR
 
> By fit are you talking about something other than seat height?

All dimensions.

For hard riding you want a large frame with minimum seatpost extension.
For easy riding you want a too-small frame with extended seatpost.

Hard riders tend to like a more vertical seat tube (seat to crank angle) for the hunched-over position.
Easy riders like the pedals further forward.

Short (front-back) frame for less weight, more stiffness, more nimble when roller-derbying another rider off his draft.
Longer frame more comfortable, though handlebar/gooseneck must get the grips into your hands comfortably.

Trail is the ground distance between the steering axis and the tire ground contact.
Less is lively, more is self-centering at speed. (Head angle gives stability at low speed).

Do you want a Toyota MR2, made to be *driven*, or a classic Cadillac, born to cruise?

None of this is real easy to see in CraigsList or at the yard sale. I have an eye/butt from decades around bikes, but it takes more than one trip around the block to be sure.

My experience is that the "sexy brands" are scaled for teens and geeks, the "low class" brands are scaled for ease and comfort. Older bikes are often excellent, discounted for repairs. And being low-class, you can get 2 or 3 and pick the best frame, the best bars, the best brakes.

If I know where you ride, you don't have any long grade of even 1%, so "gears" may be optional. The 1960s 3-speeds with half-fat 26" tires may be a good ride. (If the tires are rot, find the biggest 26" rubber that will fit in the forks.) My road is 2% grade and it is nice to downshift going up and upshift on the return; also my long sand driveway can call for bottom gear (I even bodged a monster cog for that).
 
Excellent 'essentials' summary.

With the multiplayer software, yes you can race... even over the internet... though the power/resistance calibration can be "cheated" downwards, and I suspect that any sort of competition tends to incentivize cheating. -On the internet, nobody knows you're a dog.

If you do get on a bike, one thing I'd say if you've got a dodgy knee is make very very certain indeed that your legs never quite fully extend... in other words, at lowest/furthest pedal travel your leg should never QUITE be straight. the knee should ALWAYS remain ever-so-slightly flexed. -Setting the saddle high enough to 'lock' your knee at full extension can do significant damage. -Not everyone knows this, though you probably already do.
 

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