Any items that make integrating a LM317 with old style eyelet board construction

Hi,
I've only recently begun working with LM317 regulators and I mainly work in older eyelet board, turret board, and point to point style fabrication. I've been using the LM317 and just sort of bread board soldering it into to circuit.

I've been trying to figure out how to incorporate the part in a more elegant, less "prototypical" looking installation.

Are there any solder tab sockets that might make for a neater installation? Is there a solder tab substitute for the LM317 functionality that I might switch over to using?

Thank You.

You can take a look at this page from Amp Maker:
http://www.ampmaker.com/infocentre/thread-122.html
Scroll down to post 6.

Thanks for the link.

That is what I have been doing so far. It seems to work very well but there's not a lot of clearance between the pins and so I have been bending the pins apart just a bit to help with the clearance. 

I thought I'd ask once more if there were any other form factors or perhaps sockets that can be used to make wiring a LM317 into a eyelet board project seem a bit cleaner and neater.

Thank You.

I've never been satisfied with wiring any regulators to plain steel casings. I have always used an assortment of heat sinks and installation exactly how you see TO220 used in ATX (computer) power supplies. Look and feel is pretty far from vintage and eyelets but that's how TO220 is designed to be used. Installation-wise it's as good as it gets. Even better with some of the modern cases with all-heatsink side- or back-panels, but since you talk of eyelets this probably doesn't apply to you.

Perhaps install the heatsink into a nice angle hiding the "modern" TO220 part with only wires sticking out somewhere below.

I've never heard of sockets for TO-220. I have simply soldered the legs directly to the eyelets (or turrets in this case):

Thanks to both of you.

Yesterday,  I realized that the mounting pins on my heat sink fit perfectly into the eyelets I am using. Once I figured out that I could easily mount the heat sink to the circuit board in that orientation I imagined that I could use three eyelets with the middle hole offset, as Merlin has illustrated and that this can work nicely and look like a well thought out install.

Thank You.