FINISHED: JKSN-U67

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bockaudio said:
Nice that you didn't overdo the value of the output cap to get "more bass".
I've done a similar mod and got a PIO cap in there.

I thought that in this circuit a larger output cap actually meant less bass due to the feedback circuit. Am I wrong?

What PIO did you use?

J
 
3nity said:
I use ERO caps a lot, since theres a local store that carries most of the values.
However i never really came to a concusion that i love them or not.

Whats your opinion?
Nice build btw.

This is actually my first time using them other than in the original sony c800g and I'm not sure if I like it yet.
 
mickdundee63 said:
Hey Jess, I'm hoping you can confirm the following transformer wiring for me for the AMI BV12. I have the data sheet however there is an inconsistency (the data sheet lists one white and two grey wires whereas I have one grey and two whites). I would contact AMI however the very sad news from their organisation is that Oliver Archut has passed away so I'm not bothering them and using the information I already have.

For this reason I have set out the wiring according to the physical transformer below. i'm hoping yours was laid out exactly the same so you can confirm this is correct:


                (to C3) white ---[]---blue (join to green)
            (to c12) yellow---[]---red (to ground)
            (to R18)  grey---[]---white (to c13)
      (join to blue)  green---[]---orange (to C9)

                        both blacks to ground

Any help you are able to provide is most appreciated.

Yes I also have one grey and two whites.

Yours seems to be wrong. I wired mine up like this.. ( I took the yellow sticker off and therefore the wires are coming out of their original sides instead of double backing underneath the tape.

Top Bobbin

            Green (to yellow) ---[]--- Orange (to Coupling Cap output).
                                      ---[]--- Black (Ground)
        Grey (to C17 100pf) ---[]--- White (XLR 2)

Lower bobbin

              Yellow (to Green) ---[]--- Red (To Ground)
                                        ---[]--- Black (Ground)
                White (To R18) ---[]--- Blue (XLR 1)

My concern was if that grey to c17 and that white to r18 were reversed then the feedback wouldn't work and my mic sounds very toppy, granted i haven't really done much work with it. I should probably shoot some sweeping white noise into it in both configurations. To see which way would be correct.
 
JessJackson said:
mickdundee63 said:
Hey Jess, I'm hoping you can confirm the following transformer wiring for me for the AMI BV12. I have the data sheet however there is an inconsistency (the data sheet lists one white and two grey wires whereas I have one grey and two whites). I would contact AMI however the very sad news from their organisation is that Oliver Archut has passed away so I'm not bothering them and using the information I already have.

For this reason I have set out the wiring according to the physical transformer below. i'm hoping yours was laid out exactly the same so you can confirm this is correct:


                (to C3) white ---[]---blue (join to green)
            (to c12) yellow---[]---red (to ground)
            (to R18)  grey---[]---white (to c13)
      (join to blue)  green---[]---orange (to C9)

                        both blacks to ground

Any help you are able to provide is most appreciated.

Yes I also have one grey and two whites.

Yours seems to be wrong. I wired mine up like this.. ( I took the yellow sticker off and therefore the wires are coming out of their original sides instead of double backing underneath the tape.

Top Bobbin

            Green (to yellow) ---[]--- Orange (to Coupling Cap output).
                                      ---[]--- Black (Ground)
        Grey (to C17 100pf) ---[]--- White (XLR 2)

Lower bobbin

              Yellow (to Green) ---[]--- Red (To Ground)
                                        ---[]--- Black (Ground)
                White (To R18) ---[]--- Blue (XLR 1)

My concern was if that grey to c17 and that white to r18 were reversed then the feedback wouldn't work and my mic sounds very toppy, granted i haven't really done much work with it. I should probably shoot some sweeping white noise into it in both configurations. To see which way would be correct.

Thanks Jess fo this input, I am actually Working on having a little adaptor made to stick the Classic series BV12 in my next D-67 build
this will be very helpfull indeed. I have contacted AMI to get one and also requested that they update their specsheet. I will probably end up with the mandate for this one
Best,
Dan,
 
JessJackson said:
mickdundee63 said:
Hey Jess, I'm hoping you can confirm the following transformer wiring for me for the AMI BV12. I have the data sheet however there is an inconsistency (the data sheet lists one white and two grey wires whereas I have one grey and two whites). I would contact AMI however the very sad news from their organisation is that Oliver Archut has passed away so I'm not bothering them and using the information I already have.

For this reason I have set out the wiring according to the physical transformer below. i'm hoping yours was laid out exactly the same so you can confirm this is correct:


                (to C3) white ---[]---blue (join to green)
            (to c12) yellow---[]---red (to ground)
            (to R18)  grey---[]---white (to c13)
      (join to blue)  green---[]---orange (to C9)

                        both blacks to ground

Any help you are able to provide is most appreciated.

Yes I also have one grey and two whites.

Yours seems to be wrong. I wired mine up like this.. ( I took the yellow sticker off and therefore the wires are coming out of their original sides instead of double backing underneath the tape.

Top Bobbin

            Green (to yellow) ---[]--- Orange (to Coupling Cap output).
                                      ---[]--- Black (Ground)
        Grey (to C17 100pf) ---[]--- White (XLR 2)

Lower bobbin

              Yellow (to Green) ---[]--- Red (To Ground)
                                        ---[]--- Black (Ground)
                White (To R18) ---[]--- Blue (XLR 1)

My concern was if that grey to c17 and that white to r18 were reversed then the feedback wouldn't work and my mic sounds very toppy, granted i haven't really done much work with it. I should probably shoot some sweeping white noise into it in both configurations. To see which way would be correct.

Oh OK I see. I understood there was a polarity error on the data sheet so I was treating the AMI yellow as if it had the polarity dot. Well if yours is working and sounding good I will follow suit and see how it goes. I have avoided trimming my wires after soldering to allow for easy adjustments.
 
mickdundee63 said:
JessJackson said:
mickdundee63 said:
Hey Jess, I'm hoping you can confirm the following transformer wiring for me for the AMI BV12. I have the data sheet however there is an inconsistency (the data sheet lists one white and two grey wires whereas I have one grey and two whites). I would contact AMI however the very sad news from their organisation is that Oliver Archut has passed away so I'm not bothering them and using the information I already have.

For this reason I have set out the wiring according to the physical transformer below. i'm hoping yours was laid out exactly the same so you can confirm this is correct:


                (to C3) white ---[]---blue (join to green)
            (to c12) yellow---[]---red (to ground)
            (to R18)  grey---[]---white (to c13)
      (join to blue)  green---[]---orange (to C9)

                        both blacks to ground

Any help you are able to provide is most appreciated.

Yes I also have one grey and two whites.

Yours seems to be wrong. I wired mine up like this.. ( I took the yellow sticker off and therefore the wires are coming out of their original sides instead of double backing underneath the tape.

Top Bobbin

            Green (to yellow) ---[]--- Orange (to Coupling Cap output).
                                      ---[]--- Black (Ground)
        Grey (to C17 100pf) ---[]--- White (XLR 2)

Lower bobbin

              Yellow (to Green) ---[]--- Red (To Ground)
                                        ---[]--- Black (Ground)
                White (To R18) ---[]--- Blue (XLR 1)

My concern was if that grey to c17 and that white to r18 were reversed then the feedback wouldn't work and my mic sounds very toppy, granted i haven't really done much work with it. I should probably shoot some sweeping white noise into it in both configurations. To see which way would be correct.

Oh OK I see. I understood there was a polarity error on the data sheet so I was treating the AMI yellow as if it had the polarity dot. Well if yours is working and sounding good I will follow suit and see how it goes. I have avoided trimming my wires after soldering to allow for easy adjustments.

Wait... I just seen this post http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=50021.msg723791#msg723791

... mine does sound like it may not have de emphasis circuit working.

I never saw those dots before... so are you saying that it should be like this?

I labeled some numbers on my below diagram to make things more simple. colours are confusing.

bv12correction.png


but why would oliver have written on the data sheet:

200Ohm hookup bridge green with yellow output white/blue 50Ohm hookup white/yellow green/blue

maybe the dot is just marked in the wrong place

J
 
When I looked at my wiring I actually have green and yellow connected so I must have noted the same comment you quoted and changed from the wiring setup I posted earlier. Also, I'm presuming that the wiring of the audio outs wouldn't affect the de-emphasis circuit??

I may have to read up a bit more. I'll just get it passing audio first then perhaps switch those confusing grey and white wires and listen for audible differences. I don't have a scope so that's about as sophisticated as I will get!
 
I shot it out against an untouched vintage u67 last night on rap vocals . The assistants couldn't tell the difference between the two. So I must have the wiring of the transformer correct.

 
I swapped the grey and whites around. The way you have it wired is correct to my mind. When I wired it the reverse way the sound was thin and weak. In the original configuration it was fuller and richer, it had more balls. I wouldn't say there was a big difference to the top end, more that there was just more fullness in the low mids and bass. I can't comment on the sound more fully as I have a cheap tube and a k47 type capsule for testing purposes. It already sounds expensive though, looking forward to getting an NOS telefunken and neumann capsule in there.

Your P2P build is next level! Will have a crack at that at some stage hopefully.
 
mickdundee63 said:
I swapped the grey and whites around. The way you have it wired is correct to my mind. When I wired it the reverse way the sound was thin and weak. In the original configuration it was fuller and richer, it had more balls. I wouldn't say there was a big difference to the top end, more that there was just more fullness in the low mids and bass. I can't comment on the sound more fully as I have a cheap tube and a k47 type capsule for testing purposes. It already sounds expensive though, looking forward to getting an NOS telefunken and neumann capsule in there.

Your P2P build is next level! Will have a crack at that at some stage hopefully.

Great to hear that Mick, I won't be changing mine, I got it right the first time. :-] I might have a spare k67 that Eric built I can throw over to you on the cheap.

Thanks for the compliments... Those images actually make the soldering look messy because they are so macro.

J
 
Great work, Jess! You make me even more excited to build my U67. Great to know it sounds identical to a vintage 67
 
JessJackson said:
mickdundee63 said:
I swapped the grey and whites around. The way you have it wired is correct to my mind. When I wired it the reverse way the sound was thin and weak. In the original configuration it was fuller and richer, it had more balls. I wouldn't say there was a big difference to the top end, more that there was just more fullness in the low mids and bass. I can't comment on the sound more fully as I have a cheap tube and a k47 type capsule for testing purposes. It already sounds expensive though, looking forward to getting an NOS telefunken and neumann capsule in there.

Your P2P build is next level! Will have a crack at that at some stage hopefully.

Great to hear that Mick, I won't be changing mine, I got it right the first time. :-] I might have a spare k67 that Eric built I can throw over to you on the cheap.

Thanks for the compliments... Those images actually make the soldering look messy because they are so macro.

J

Thanks for the kind offer but I have a Neumann kk87 head basket/capsule that I bought a while ago. I have it wired in now and the mic sounds wonderful. Class, character and definition. Easily the best mic I have owned. Will hopefully shoot out with an original U67  and a Wunder CM67 in the next week or two. Couldn't have done it without the help of GroupDIY including yourself. Great community.
 
mickdundee63 said:
Thanks for the kind offer but I have a Neumann kk87 head basket/capsule that I bought a while ago. I have it wired in now and the mic sounds wonderful. Class, character and definition. Easily the best mic I have owned. Will hopefully shoot out with an original U67  and a Wunder CM67 in the next week or two. Couldn't have done it without the help of GroupDIY including yourself. Great community.

I probably missed it, but what mic did you build? A U67 inside of a TLM67?
 
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