DIY Plate Reverb-max plate thickness 22 Ga?

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pitol678

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2014
Messages
54
Hi, Ive been doing some research on plate reverbs and see that 24Ga to 28Ga is generally recommended for the plate, but the thinnest I can seem to find (even when ordering online) is 22Ga. Does anyone have any experience with metal this thick? Can it work? Thanks!

E
 
I don't have much experience, but I think it has to do with the size, the bigger the plate the thicker it can be. There were some pretty tiny ones (2'x4') with really thin plates. Also may depend on the material of the plates.

JS
 
joaquins said:
I don't have much experience, but I think it has to do with the size, the bigger the plate the thicker it can be. There were some pretty tiny ones (2'x4') with really thin plates. Also may depend on the material of the plates.

JS

I had intended my plate to be 39inches by 72 inches, but since I havent ordered anything I can still change that. However, its good to know that the thickness of the plate is related to the overall size.

Just to elaborate, the thickness of a 24 gauge sheet is .024" to .030". Anyone else have experience with 22Ga cold-rolled steel for this application? Thanks!
 
I know about using different materials than cold rolled, maybe stainless or even galvanized. Maybe some of that is easier to get...

JS
 
> 39inches by 72 inches,

You can't ship that big a piece of 24-28 gauge; it won't stand it without a huge crate worth more than the metal.

Someone in your town makes heating ducts. Duct-metal comes 48" wide, and a busy shop gets it on a roll. The thickness is on the fat end of the range you are wishing for. You probably want steel. The shop has the shear to cut it. Emphasize that you do NOT want the edges rolled, and that you will come in a van that can lay a 4'x6' sheet down very flat.
 
pitol678 said:
Hi, Ive been doing some research on plate reverbs and see that 24Ga to 28Ga is generally recommended for the plate, but the thinnest I can seem to find (even when ordering online) is 22Ga. Does anyone have any experience with metal this thick? Can it work? Thanks!

E
I have, and it's very disappointing. Whatever the size, it seems that anything thicker than 0.5mm (26 gauge) results in inconsistent tension, which introduces parasitic resonances.
 
I have wanted to build a plate for a long time. I can't find any thin steel in the area at all. I think 22 gauage is the thinnest around here. Does anyone know of a supplier within 200 miles of Roanoke, Virginia?
 
Anyone know, or have tried how good is galvanized for this task? It's the only thin sheet I can get and it's pretty cheap and easy for me, it comes rolled 4' with and I can get easily 27Ga for sure or maybe thinner. I'd like to try different sizes also, a friend asked me if I can build one 2'x4' but I don't know if it's too small for it to work properly at all, or it just won't have nice low end which shouldn't be a problem for some tasks.

JS
 
I have, and it's very disappointing. Whatever the size, it seems that anything thicker than 0.5mm (26 gauge) results in inconsistent tension, which introduces parasitic resonances.
[/quote]

Thanks for the insight, much appreciated.

Has anyone used galvanized? Im considering using it albeit reluctantly, but Im also thinking that since I have a little experience working with sheet metal in the past (making duct-work with galvanized metal) that I could just order an entire sheet and sheer it with some hand sheers, making it 4 feet by 6 feet.
 
Zinc on galvanized steel tends to damp resonances, particularly on the thinnest gauge, which may or may not be to your taste.
IIRC the EMT plates were electrically coated, which made a much thinner zinc coat than hot-dip.
Many steel fabrication shops use protected electroplated steel, which means it is protected on both sides with a thin adhesive film that covers it during all the fabrication process, punching, bending...
I think you should, as been suggested previously, buy your plate from a steel fab, who has access to suppliers that don't cater for the general public.
Now the problem is, if they don't have it in stock, will they want to order it for you? Generally, this kind of supply is subject to significant minimum order.
 
I measured the thickness of my plate last night and it was appx 0.020", maybe a little thinner  (25/26 gauge?)
This is a Ecoplate which has a stainless steel sheet.
 
abbey road d enfer said:
Zinc on galvanized steel tends to damp resonances, particularly on the thinnest gauge, which may or may not be to your taste.
IIRC the EMT plates were electrically coated, which made a much thinner zinc coat than hot-dip.
Many steel fabrication shops use protected electroplated steel, which means it is protected on both sides with a thin adhesive film that covers it during all the fabrication process, punching, bending...
I think you should, as been suggested previously, buy your plate from a steel fab, who has access to suppliers that don't cater for the general public.
Now the problem is, if they don't have it in stock, will they want to order it for you? Generally, this kind of supply is subject to significant minimum order.

I decided against the galvanized metal and ordered a 24 gauge 4x8 feet sheet of cold-rolled steel. This was the thinnest I could get in my town with only buying one sheet. Just as you said, if I had gotten 26 or 28 gauge it would have required that I ordered much more than I needed.

Due to space constraints, I have not started construction on the frame in order to see if the 4 x 8 sheet can be cut by hand down to 6 feet(the steel co. wanted an additional $70 to cut 2 feet off of it!). I think this can be done with hand shears unless the steel is much harder than galvanized.
 
pitol678 said:
abbey road d enfer said:
Zinc on galvanized steel tends to damp resonances, particularly on the thinnest gauge, which may or may not be to your taste.
IIRC the EMT plates were electrically coated, which made a much thinner zinc coat than hot-dip.
Many steel fabrication shops use protected electroplated steel, which means it is protected on both sides with a thin adhesive film that covers it during all the fabrication process, punching, bending...
I think you should, as been suggested previously, buy your plate from a steel fab, who has access to suppliers that don't cater for the general public.
Now the problem is, if they don't have it in stock, will they want to order it for you? Generally, this kind of supply is subject to significant minimum order.

I decided against the galvanized metal and ordered a 24 gauge 4x8 feet sheet of cold-rolled steel. This was the thinnest I could get in my town with only buying one sheet. Just as you said, if I had gotten 26 or 28 gauge it would have required that I ordered much more than I needed.

Due to space constraints, I have not started construction on the frame in order to see if the 4 x 8 sheet can be cut by hand down to 6 feet(the steel co. wanted an additional $70 to cut 2 feet off of it!). I think this can be done with hand shears unless the steel is much harder than galvanized.
Cold-roll is just about the same as galvanized in terms of hardness.
I don't recommend the use of hand shears because they will warp the sheet in an unrecoverable way. I would suggest you use a jig saw. It will take longer to make the cut but it will need only minor filing to clean it.
 
Cold-roll is just about the same as galvanized in terms of hardness.
I don't recommend the use of hand shears because they will warp the sheet in an unrecoverable way. I would suggest you use a jig saw. It will take longer to make the cut but it will need only minor filing to clean it.

Awesome, thanks for the tip!!! Cant wait to get started
 
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