First GSSL / DIY project

Hello everyone,

before writing anything, i just want to know if i can start right there a new thread about GSSL or if i must use the now big "GSSL HELP THREAD" ?

if you need help you should use the thread. what is your concern?

Well, i just thought it would be easier for both helpers and me to work together in a separate thread.
I'm reading the main one anyway and learn a lot from it, thanks to everyone's experience. But it counts more than 350 pages now...
From all the different sources i've seen, there are some differences in building the GSSL. I guess there is not one clone made like another as we choose what's inside with our abilities to find components and sometimes, to find good replacers as far as we can judge them. For a sound technician like me, but not familiar with electronic knowledge so far, the way of DIY might be some times very hasardous. That's why i'm glad to be here, among people who experienced at least one DIY project like this one, and among people who read schematics as some other can read musical score.
You'll understand i prefer to start a distinct thread in which i'll ask for help while the building goes on. If moderators are ok with that, that's cool.

So, my GSSL is about to be based on :
- main PCB
- super side chain PCB (the one with variable HPF sc)
- CRC board by Expataudio.
- dbx 2150A VCAs

N.B. : the project is starting. I've soldered the main components on the main pcb (i'm waiting to receive 1N4148 diodes). I've began the super side chain pcb, and bought the CRC board today. Lot of things to do yet...

So while i wait for missing components, i think about the building.


I know my 2150A are "obsolete", as i did read. But i wanted to follow the initial PCB writings as close as possible. 
My question is : Is there a way to test their good operation ?

I also think about replacing my NE5532P and NE5534P with "AP" version i found. They are said to be less noisy.
My question is :Am i right or isn't it worth it ?

I was told to consider the Turbo mode, by expat, for getting closer to the original ssl sound. I think i already read that on that forum.
My question is :Is it possible to make it work if super sidechain is already installed or do i have to build another GSSL ?

Thanks in advance to all the helpers.

chrophe said:

I also think about replacing my NE5532P and NE5534P with "AP" version i found. They are said to be less noisy.
My question is :Am i right or isn't it worth it ?

Click to expand...

http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=31023.0
reply #5

chrophe said:

I was told to consider the Turbo mode, by expat, for getting closer to the original ssl sound. I think i already read that on that forum.
My question is :Is it possible to make it work if super sidechain is already installed or do i have to build another GSSL ?

Click to expand...

http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=31673.0

For the 2150, I can't speak. Maybe the forum can...

Thank you Sam System-D,

if i consider what is said in the first thread you quote, i should not use opamps that are not written on the PCB. That sounds very wise to my ears. But the point is i bought a NE5532 and got a NE5532P (same for the 5534).
I must compare the NE5532 suffix to figure this out.

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/405/slos075j-526610.pdf


Thank you for the second thread, i will make a second GSSL with turbo mode instead of SSC.

I wonder about the add of the CRC board i just ordered from Expat Audio. In his youtube video, i do not see any bridge rectifier on the main PCB. Do i have to remove it from mine to make this work with the CRC board ?

No, just connect + and - terminals from CRC to + and - terminals on your bridge rectifier on the main board.
puc

chrophe said:

Click to expand...

Expect broken regulators and/or a broken rectifier when the heatfins of the voltage regulators get in touch. Applied voltages on these metal tabs are not the same...