Headphone amplifier math

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Andy Peters

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
2,031
Location
Sunny Tucson
I am sizing up a power supply for a design which includes a headphone amp. So how much current does a headphone amp draw?

Let's see, I have this nice pair of Grado SR-125es and the datasheet says that they're 32 ohm and the sensitivity is 1 mW gives an output 99.8 dB SPL.

Well, 100 dB SPL in a pair of headphones is pretty darn loud.

So what do you need to drive the cans to this kind of level? My six-year-old can do the Ohm's Law math:

1 mW = (V^2) / 32 which means V = 179 millivolts.

Millivolts.

Do some more math and you get 5.6 mA current.

This is like nothing.

In this same vein, Sony specs the 7506 with 63 ohm impedance and a sensitivity of 106 dB/mW. 106 dB in your ears will remove the wax as well as some unnecessary cells.  Math tells us that to get 1 mW across a 63 ohm load you need 251 mV at 4 mA. Again, this is nothing.

What am I missing? What's with overbuilt headphone amplifiers?
 
When designing a commercial headphone amp you need to cover all (most) headphones in use. The last time I did this exercise (back in the '80s) headphones ranged from 600 ohm with a few higher, down to something like 3.2 ohm (seriously I think rat shack sold that one).

The math regarding power that you can safely drive into an ear canal is mW so even driving 3.2 ohm does not mean Watts. The popular practice to accommodate the wide range of impedances is use a healthy build-out resistor, so the hi-Z cans won't notice, and the low-Z cans don't draw too much current.

Clearly having a few tens of ohms in series with headphone drivers is not a recipe for high fidelity.

I made a headphone amp that would drive 4 ohm loudspeakers, but found that playing that too loud for too long would blow the thermal fuse in the 1A wall wart, so I added a resistor in series with the power supply recifier that power limited the power supply to a lower level that would no blow up the wall wart.

For a one-off DIY I would avoid the large build out resistor and oversize the amp to accommodate any outliers you anticipate, without releasing smoke.  You probably know what headphones you expect to encounter.

I know a few folks making dramatic claims for class A headphone amps and the load from a typical headphone is not going to demand too much class A bias, heatsink and transformer.  I do not expect night and day improvement from class A, but expect some potential audio benefit from driving phones with low impedance circuitry, over the old school tens of ohms series build-out. .

JR   
 
JohnRoberts said:
When designing a commercial headphone amp you need to cover all (most) headphones in use. The last time I did this exercise (back in the '80s) headphones ranged from 600 ohm with a few higher, down to something like 3.2 ohm (seriously I think rat shack sold that one).

The math regarding power that you can safely drive into an ear canal is mW so even driving 3.2 ohm does not mean Watts. The popular practice to accommodate the wide range of impedances is use a healthy build-out resistor, so the hi-Z cans won't notice, and the low-Z cans don't draw too much current.

Clearly having a few tens of ohms in series with headphone drivers is not a recipe for high fidelity.

For a one-off DIY I would avoid the large build out resistor and oversize the amp to accommodate any outliers you anticipate, without releasing smoke.  You probably know what headphones you expect to encounter.

Yeah, that all makes sense. I figure a 4.99-ohm resistor in series with the driver is sufficient to handle the lowest-impedance headphones one might come across. Seems like the 32-ohm and 64-ohm range is most common, at least in my house.

I use the Grados with my iPod and iPhone, and they get sufficiently loud.

The point of all of this is that I need not be very concerned about headphone amp current draw.  Add a couple of milliamps to the total expected load (for the entire design) and done.

I made a headphone amp that would drive 4 ohm loudspeakers, but found that playing that too loud for too long would blow the thermal fuse in the 1A wall wart, so I added a resistor in series with the power supply recifier that power limited the power supply to a lower level that would no blow up the wall wart.

I remember that guy. A friend of mine was touring as a guitar tech for Helmet way back when and used it with headphones built into shooter's muffs! It was LOUD.

And powering loudspeakers means watts and not milliwatts, so I see why you'd need to protect from abuse.

I know a few folks making dramatic claims for class A headphone amps and the load from a typical headphone is not going to demand too much class A bias, heatsink and transformer.  I do not expect night and day improvement from class A, but expect some potential audio benefit from driving phones with low impedance circuitry, over the old school tens of ohms series build-out. .

Well, you know, Class A is a mark of quality!

-a
 
In one of my various tidbits from PRR related to headphone design, I have this cut and pasted (perhaps the original context can be searched here): 7.4V RMS behind 29 ohms will drive 99% of phones out there.

Original context is (likely) here.
 
Matador said:
In one of my various tidbits from PRR related to headphone design, I have this cut and pasted (perhaps the original context can be searched here): 7.4V RMS behind 29 ohms will drive 99% of phones out there.

Original context is (likely) here.

Totally excellent.

-a
 
What they said +1 :)

As the former chief technologist for a children's 'eadphone company, (volume limited headphones and earbuds by use of an integrated module with Schottky diode and resistor combinations for volume limiting -- some headphone amps can put out more "juice" than others; better to limit by tuning the headphone/earbud transducers/unit, not a-postori assumptions of amp) measuring the actual dB output of these things is squirrely (never mind that the left ear and right ear might have vastly different sensitivities!)...  We had a $25k G.R.A.S. "average human head" with B&K transducers, LabVIEW-based software, calibrated up the wazoo etc.

The dB readings would change upon head size as the spring loading of the headphone band is different and impresses upon the pinnae with different force, thus different distance into the ear canal and distances from the ear drum...

85 dB was the goal we were shooting for (OSHA, NIOSH etc) to mitigate the potential for noise induced hearing loss, yet the manufacturers we sourced overseas had such wild variation that it was hard (but not impossible) to tune the circuit for limiting the volume at the desired threshold.

(notwithstanding the other issues of crossed phase/wiring betwixt ears...)

So, the dB output from the mechanical translation of energy (dosimetry akin to NIOSH or OSHA intent) or power (instantaneous) may not be what is published and seldom was... measured by an acoustic "coupler" with the average human head (or ear canal simulated coupler in the case of earbuds) and headphone band pressure induced will get you closer to not frying the ears...  Some audiologists will place partially occluded microphones in the ear canal for such tests to verify...

FWIW....  Cheers...
 
> 100 dB SPL in a pair of headphones is pretty darn loud.

100dB SPL *average* is petty loud.

But peaks can go higher.

The goal for high-fidelity living-room systems was sometimes 105dB SPL peak. If you take 85dB SPL as a reasonable average, and tack on 20dB for peaks (or 90dB SPL for "enthusiast" levels and 15dB peaks) you get in this zone.

100-106dB SPL per mW is pretty high. Some 'phones are much lower.

It is seriously likely that you will want a 50mW amp for critical listening.

The V*I situation is more complicated if you consider the broad range of impedances, 4r to 2K.

Situation is more consolidated now that "everything" has to play OK from a 3V device. 1V RMS in nominal 32 Ohms is 31mW. Much closer to '50mW" than your specific "1mW" case. For critical work we might want to aim for 2Vrms, but we no longer have to cater for 600r phones and many-Volt peaks.

1V in 32r is 31mA RMS. 44mA peak.

16 Ohm phones exist. 2Vrms in 16r is 250mW. Some of these are derived from hearing-aid mechanisms and would be VERY LOUD at 2V. 0.9Vrms might be ample. 55mA RMS. 80mA peak.

Note that 44mA-80mA are above the limit-level for general-purpose opamps. There are higher-current chips, or you can (correctly) lash-up a team.

Note that assuming 2V is enuff for modern 'phones means 5.6V peak-to-peak, or say a 8V or +/-4V power rails. 8V total supply is barely enough to get some general-purpose opamps fully-alive.

Note that happy rails for a low-Z 'phone driver are much lower than we customarily carry in "line" stages. The average and peak voltages are lower. We don't normally monitor every point inside a console, and may have hot levels in an intermediate stage; headphone levels are monitored by ear-pain. So it may be awkward to power both from the same supply. OTOH separate supplies are awkward. It is often done to power the 'phone amp from the line-amp rails, and let the excess voltage heat the chips of a build-out resistor.

Note that none of the general-purpose chip opamps are at all happy driving 32 Ohms, or even the 128 Ohms each part of a 4-pack would carry. The output load spoils the internal gain and reduces NFB. Since mis-loading is part of selling chips to sloppy designers, the chips usually don't show any surprise non-linearity, they just get mushy.

> What's with overbuilt headphone amplifiers?

Given the poor match with "simple" designs, and the low cost of OVER-design, it is popular to throw +/-15V supplies and 8-Amp transistors in with a 40VA PT. The Silicon-cost may still be less than the classy knobs. The heavy iron gives "heft". It is "better built" than a Mercedes, while the total price may be similar to one loan-payment on the Benz, and the punks won't steal your hubcaps.

As said, we want milliWatts not Watts. A 50mW 'phone amp is "minimum" like your would want 50 Watts in your speakers. So on the face of it, a 'phone amp costs 1,000 times less than a speaker amp. Not really, but many over-kill ideas which are preposterous on speakers are trivial at 'phone power levels.

OTOH, as Brian says, in days of higher-Z phones and many phones in the studio, the standard headphone amp was a speaker amp and a box of resistors or pots.

> a power supply for a .... a headphone amp

Power supply current is not load current. For a totem-pole Class B stage, at FULL power, the PS current is about 1/6 of the peak load current, or 1/4 of the RMS load current. Taking 80mA peak, current from the supply is about 13mA.

If you do NOT do full-power sine tests, only un-clipped speech/music, and use reservoir caps which can carry speech/music peaks, your average current will be 10dB or 15dB lower. Round to 12dB, so 1/4 the current, not even 4mA. For extreme linearity you would like output device emitter impedance less than low-load, 16 Ohms, which for BJT points to the 2mA idle zone. And your driver system is liable to be a couple mA all the time. So even if "class B", your max supply current may not be much above your idle current.

OTOH if you load in 16 Ohms and power with +/-5V and sine-test it at clipping, your power supply current approaches 100mA. 1VA of DC load, so with rectifier and regulator losses you need 3VA of PT core size.

All above for one ear. Double for two ears. Multiply again for friends and cohorts. (Though often it makes-sense to give each her/his own amp and knob.)

That's for semi-class-B designs. If you do a CCS-loaded SE amp, on the above numbers you need a standing current >80mA (I have advocated 150mA to be sure the amp never clips in hi-level monitoring). If you go resistor-loaded and assume peak swing is half the supply, you need 160mA or 300mA standing current!! (This is over-done, you can optimize significantly, though it will still be a Hot Box.)
 
PRR said:
That's for semi-class-B designs. If you do a CCS-loaded SE amp, on the above numbers you need a standing current >80mA (I have advocated 150mA to be sure the amp never clips in hi-level monitoring). If you go resistor-loaded and assume peak swing is half the supply, you need 160mA or 300mA standing current!! (This is over-done, you can optimize significantly, though it will still be a Hot Box.)

Seems like a friend and i built headphone amp based on similar idea a few years back, it is in fig.9b here:
http://headwize.com/?page_id=147
The others were Jakob's transistor and tube versions:
http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/hpamp/HP-Amp.pdf
http://gyraf.dk/tmp/Tube_headphoneamp.pdf
It was a very nice experience exploring them, transistors with op-amp voltage drivers were most flexible and sounded good. Didn't hear tube version myself, IIRC friend had some problems with tubes, forgot what it was exactly...
 
> in fig.9b here:

Note that this calls for 12V in 100r or 120mA standing current, toward the range I propose for MAX useful power.

Such amps run HOT. This one eats nearly 3 Watts. The resistor takes like 1.5 Watts, all the time, so you need a 3W part and a 10W is a good choice. The transistor takes just as much, which is pretty hefty heatsink for a "headphone" app.

And in my diddles with opamp driving MOSFETs and Darlingtons I kept having hints of 10MHz instability. This makes perfect sense. A simple BJT like TIP42 seems to work more stably.

> Jakob's transistor

That is an excellent bit of classic design. However I wonder if it was aimed for days when 100-600 Ohm phones were common and 32 Ohm phones rare. The gain and supply is higher than low-Z phones need, and the 47 Ohm resistors absorb more power than the phones get. Today I might drop it to +/-6V or +/-10V, replace the red LEDs with 1N4007 diodes, and change 4K7 to 2K2, 47r to 22r or even 4r7.

The DSL chips can drive headphones with ease and impressive point-oh-oh-oh THD numbers, are a ready-made solution.
 
PRR said:
The DSL chips can drive headphones with ease and impressive point-oh-oh-oh THD numbers, are a ready-made solution.

That was kinda where I was going with this ... not an op-amp with BJTs or other external buffer.

It's for a headphone output built into a monitor controller, and I was doing some calculations to determine the power supply size, and I thought that the headphone amp would be the most significant part of the whole thing. I suppose it still is, just not as much power as I thought.

-a
 
> a monitor controller, ... I thought that the headphone amp would be the most significant part

Everything comes down to POWER.

An all-purpose monitor amplifier driver "should" drive 600 Ohms to over +16dBm/dBu, 42 milliWatts. It is not uncommon to find 10V capability, 166mW.

A monitor-quality (not just iPod quality) headphone driver should probably do 40mW-100mW, but in 32 Ohms (to 100 Ohms). It may not be wrong to provide 100mW-200mW, and trust the user not to blow his brains out.

So ~~100mW either way. But at 600-10K versus 16-150 Ohms. Taking 600 versus 32, the one wants 4 times the voltages, the other wants 4 times the currents.

So totally optimized you want two power supplies. Maybe +/-10V @10mA and +/-5V @100mA.

OTOH the total power demanded is less than a cheap transformer can supply. 12VCT @ 1Amp is not a big part, and doubling both the end and the tap gives you +/-14V and +/-7V.

Or just run it all on +/-12V @110mA and let the excess heat the headphone chip.
 
A couple of years ago I made this (fairly vanilla) head amp design, chiefly to educate EE freshmen on structured design methods. The case PRR mentions (driving both 600R and 32R cans to ~100mW/105-110dBA peak) was one of the main requirements.

All freshmen got to build one, with the option to buy a case, PSU and parts to populate the pop-protection relay circuit if they liked the end result.

It's fairly simple, has a workable gain structure and uses under $10 in easily available parts. The jumpers to defeat the servo and global feedback help to debug assembly problems, but also make it easier to trim the bias current.

JD 'FWIW' B.
[90% SMD, nothing smaller than 0805/SOIC-8. Most expensive part: the volume pot]
 

Attachments

  • HvA SMD Headphone Amp rev2.00 schematics color.pdf
    197.7 KB · Views: 86
I'm curious:  why is diode biasing needed in the class AB output stage when used in the feedback loop in the manner described above?  Or stated another way, why not just plain class B topology?

When wrapped inside of the feedback loop, the op-amp should be able to find a correct DC operating point to hold the output node even inside of the +-Vbe deadband of the two transistors, yes?  Even if the DC gain of the opamp was a modest 106, we are talking about sub microvolt output error when driving 0V to the load.
 
Matador said:
I'm curious:  why is diode biasing needed in the class AB output stage when used in the feedback loop in the manner described above?  Or stated another way, why not just plain class B topology?
ASSuming you are talking about transistor buffers inside an op amp feedback loop. For pure class B, at every zero crossing,  the op amp output would have to slew from -1 Vbe to +1 Vbe, easily a couple hundred mV.  For a very fast opamp, measured at several volts of swing, at mid band audio frequency the distortion would be pretty low.... BUT then make that same zero crossing transition for low level audio signals and even worse for low level  HF signals, the op amp becomes the limiting factor.

To properly understand this you need to understand op amps 101...  A desired voltage change at the output of an op amp, requires an input voltage equal to the output voltage divided by the op amp's  open loop gain.  Op amps can have a few hundred thousand to one voltage gain at DC, but at very high frequency that gain is greatly reduced (for stability.

So for high level and low frequency signal (and round numbers)  this roughly 0.5V output step translates to  Verror= .5V/100,000 or 5uV. This fixed error voltage step obviously causes more distortion the smaller the signal level. Now if we combine the impact of a small signal level, with the reduced open loop gain at higher frequency it gets worse on top of worse..

If you don't believe just listen to how nasty a pure class B sounds at low level.
When wrapped inside of the feedback loop, the op-amp should be able to find a correct DC operating point to hold the output node even inside of the +-Vbe deadband of the two transistors, yes?  Even if the DC gain of the opamp was a modest 106, we are talking about sub microvolt output error when driving 0V to the load.
I suspect you mean driving 0VU? Yes the problem is numerically significant at high level, repeat your math for small signals at HF.

JR
 
> why is diode biasing needed

The T1/T5 Vbe-multiplier, John addressed. Asking the opamp to slew +/-500mV at every zero-crossing was barely acceptable in 1975, nasty today.

(Also if I read R19 R18 correctly--- the opamp is held to a gain near 100 before the final stage and global NFB are applied. So 500mV zero-cross hops are only reduced to 5mV hops at the output. On small signals, 5mV glitches will be real annoying.)

But if you mean *diodes* D1 D2 D4 D5.... those are not bias, they are current limiters. Taking Red LEDs as 1.6V, and T2 T3 et al as 0.6V B-E, if voltage across R30 R31 et al exceeds 1.0V, the transistor drive is clamped.

The Student may compute this current; also the possible Dissipation if driven into a dead-short.
 
PRR said:
(Also if I read R19 R18 correctly--- the opamp is held to a gain near 100 before the final stage and global NFB are applied. So 500mV zero-cross hops are only reduced to 5mV hops at the output. On small signals, 5mV glitches will be real annoying.)
I would like to have R18 larger, but I tried hard to minimize the set of resistor values in order to make assembly more foolproof. As it is the students have enough trouble seeing the difference between 102 (1k) and 104 (100k) on the 0805s.

(R19/C12 help tame oscillations when driving nasty load impedances. Ideally I'd like the Zobel capacitor a bit bigger, but I only get to use two cap values: one in 0805, one in 1206)

PRR said:
But if you mean *diodes* D1 D2 D4 D5.... those are not bias, they are current limiters. Taking Red LEDs as 1.6V, and T2 T3 et al as 0.6V B-E, if voltage across R30 R31 et al exceeds 1.0V, the transistor drive is clamped.
There's a bonus. The amp is built in phases, with all SMDs first, then the volume pot, and the power stages last. Without T1/T2/T3 mounted the LEDs will only light up if both the current sink (T4 et al) and the driver (U2) are correctly installed. Also, into light loads the LEDs pass enough current that basic AC tests can be performed, and the 1.6V forward drop offset offers a clear test case for the DC servo.

PRR said:
The Student may compute this current; also the possible Dissipation if driven into a dead-short.
T1/T2/T3 are supplied screwed to a heatsink large enough that, when the inevitable dead-short happens said Dissipation doesn't cause any lasting damage to the Student's wandering hands.

JDB.
[who got to educate one of our sophomores on the difference between op-amps and comparators today. Yes, the schematic symbols are (usually) the same. No, they're not interchangeable. No, not even when your circuit seems to work "fine". Let's zoom in on this edge here...]
 

Latest posts

Back
Top