From Lorlin to Grayhill

I´m wondering if it´s possible to switch out Lorlins for Grayhills? I know the footprint is different but would it be possible to just solder in leads from the Grayhill to the Lorlinn footprint on the PCB?

The reason I´m asking is that I want to build a kit that uses Lorlin but since I plan on taking the unit to the grave I feel like it could be worth the time, effort and money!

I know this is retarded of me to ask but what can I say?

XAXAU said:

The reason I´m asking is that I want to build a kit that uses Lorlin but since I plan on taking the unit to the grave I feel like it could be worth the time, effort and money!

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Did you check the data sheet for the amounts of life cycles predicted for the switches before planning this?

Gustav

Gustav said:

XAXAU said:

The reason I´m asking is that I want to build a kit that uses Lorlin but since I plan on taking the unit to the grave I feel like it could be worth the time, effort and money!

Click to expand...

Did you check the data sheet for the amounts of life cycles predicted for the switches before planning this?

Gustav

Click to expand...

I didn´t Gustav!  :-X

However I feel that plastic shafts are wobbly and feel like they will break at any given time. I sold my Moog Sub 37 because it had had plastic pots and bougt a Voyager instead which is built like a tank.

I might be silly tho...  ;D

How is the feel of the switches you have on your kits?

XAXAU said:

I feel that plastic shafts are wobbly and feel like they will break at any given time.

Click to expand...

Ok, if you just dont like Lorlin switches, theres no need to check the life span of the part.

You can replace any switch with a different one as long as you have the required poles and positions available (and can find a way to make it fit into your build).

Gustav

Gustav said:

You can replace any switch with a different one as long as you have the required poles and positions available (and can find a way to make it fit into your build).

Click to expand...

Enough differences between Lorlin/Grayhill rotary switches to cause headaches.
(and ignoring the existance of Lorlins PT-series...)

- electrical ... do you need MBB/MakeBeforeBreak/Shorting switches or BBM/BreakBeforeMake/Non-shorting switches ?
do you need the Lorlin switches higher rating of voltage and current ?

- mechanical ... Lorlin angle of throw for usual is 30°, Grayhill depending on type/series of switch 8,9,71 - 30° or 36° (ignoring the special orders 45°, 60°, 90°, ..) that might mock up an existing frontpanel labeling,
switches metric or imperial shaft diameter might/will be different, so existing knobs might/will not fit,
existing frontpanel might need an expansion drill to make the other switch brand fit through,
enough space behind the frontpanel to make the deeper outer dimension Grayhill size fit ?

... just to name a few, so better have a look at the details

Sounds like headaches, better stick to the stock Lorlins and upgrade in the future if I feel it´s necessary!

I've never had lorlins break mechnically, but I try to go with gold plated contacts which are available from several manufacturers.

Michael

The Lorlin types are available gold-plated from e.g. French APEM. But IMO rarely needed for decent designs.

And I agree, I've seen extremely few broken Lorlins over the years - that is, when they are not killed from the beginning by heavy-handed soldering.

So please don't dis' it just because it's cheap, easy and plentiful

Jakob E.

Another nice aspect to a Lorlin is that you get plenty of poles for your money, so if you do not need every pole you can wire the unused poles in parallel for additional reliability. I'm currently involved in a project where we need 3 positions to fire 3 relays, where we're using a 4-pole / 3-pos Lorlin. In this scenario I doubt an expensive switch would yield much benefit.