Reslo RB Ribbon mic, Info, Wiring, Mods.

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Vikki

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2004
Messages
276
I was wandering around a junk shop today and found a Reslo miniature ribbon mic Type RB as new in box with cable and instructions. I haven't tested anything as yet but are these o.k for recording in this modern age or something as a studio decoration?
Vikki(uk) :shock:
 
Yeah, these are pretty cool.

Check the impedance on the label on the fron tof the barrel. You want one that can give 30-50 Ohms or 600 Ohms. It is rare to find a HI-Z one that doesn't include a low impedance option.

Black label ones are earlier - say 50's, 60's. Red label are later. Both are the same mics - just different coloured labels.

You'll want to put an XLR on the cable if it currently has a jack.

They sound quite different from most mics. Fairly typical of a ribbon, but not particularly accurate. You'd really need to hear one to understand. I've compared it to a few other mics on acoustic. It captures more wood and isn't too percussive. Good on electric guitars, never tried one on vocals.

You'd probably like it as an alternative when you want to try a different flavour for recording. Could be mixed with another brighter mic on a source too.

In good condition, with original box and instructions, I'd maybe pay up to £75 (it would have to be shining though!). You'd then be able to sell it for £100 - £120 on E*bay if you didn't like it.

In average (not fabulous) condition, I'd maybe pay £45, £50.

If you paid any more than £75, you'd be getting into B*eyer M260 price territory which I would choose above a Reslo.
 
Thanks, yes its a red label and says 30/50 and hi-z RBT, here's a pic.

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=e68zo5

Looks mint, don't know if the ribbons ok.

Vikki(uk) :grin:
 
[quote author="Vikki"]Thanks, yes its a red label and says 30/50 and hi-z RBT, here's a pic.

http://tinypic.com/view/?pic=e68zo5

Looks mint, don't know if the ribbons ok.

Vikki(uk) :grin:[/quote]

You could use it for special effect but if you sell it on e-bay you could get enough to buy a mic you could use on many more sources or maybe a good sound card.
 
Well it works, i don't seem to have a thread adaptor to hold it to the mic stand :shock: I seem to recall my dad having a Ribbon mic years ago and he threw it in the dustbin :oops: It may go the Ebay way but i'll have an acoustic guitar trial first :thumb:
Vikki(uk)
 
I have a RCA KB2 ribbon mic... and recently, it's only become one of my favorite mic choices after overhauling a circa 1964 McCurdy preamp to compliment it's need for lots of gain.

It's seems that the sound of old ribbon mics excel with a preamp designed to work out the impedence matching for high gain.

What kind of preamp have you tried with it ?
 
I've just done a quick talk trial using my JLM 99 preamp, sounds smooth compared to my AKG Vienna mic :oops: Time to upgade to a good valve mic i think. I'll give it a try on some acoustic guiar and see what results i can get.
Vikki(uk)
 
One morer thing Vikki, when wiring your XLR or whatever, it can be a little tricky.

Since the transformer has two taps; one for Hi-Z and one for Lo-Z, they decided to wire both to the mic socket.

So, on the mic socket, there will most probably be a common pin, a Hi-Z pin and a Lo-Z pin...... No earth.

For XLR, you need to have the common and Lo-Z pins going to XLR 2 and 3, but for earthing, you need to ground the cable plug at the mic end to earth. This is done by either squashing the cable shield into the threads of the mic plug, or by soldering the shield to somewhere on the plug.
 
I`ve owned a few of these in he past. My experiences with them are quite varied. If you get one that`s got a good ribbon they can sound really nice. If the ribbon is a bit tired then they can sound rather dull. Your one looks to be in quite good condition, but listening is the only real test.
 
I've made a Reslo cable guide PDF for anyone who is interested:

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/rodabod/Reslo_Microphone_Cable_Guide.pdf
 
Totally awesome Rodabod!

I've got a Reslo here to upgrade / re-ribbon etc as a xmas project. Will try and post pics / bug you for info after the festivities I expect, this one has a small TX in the body and (I think) a larger one in a can that is in a module on the end of cable....seen this before?

Cheers & Happy Xmas
Tom
 
[quote author="TomWaterman"] this one has a small TX in the body and (I think) a larger one in a can that is in a module on the end of cable....seen this before?
[/quote]

Yeah, the module which is on the cable is a step-up transformer (most likely Ferrograph) which steps the impedance up to Hi-Z from Low-Z (30-50 Ohms) for use with old tape recorders and valve PAs. Useless basically. It may be handy for a valve mic-input transformer, but it depends on the quality.

Anyway, have a nice Christmas and feel free to ask any questions after the festivities.

Roddy
 
I have re-ribboned a few of my collection of Reslos with artist aluminium leaf that is about 0.8 microns thick. Doing it is torturous!..however the results are well worthwhile. Tighter low end with a more pleasant mid range and higher o/p. As various people have said the original material degrades.
Happy New Year.
Andy
 
Hey Rod and Andy,

I've just taken the Reslo apart and the ribbon is ruined so I'll need to make a new one. I have a few questions:

How did you cut the artists' leaf - a scalpel/steel rule on a smooth surface? This stuff is so fine and I sense a tortmenting time ahead.

How did you corrugate and in what patterns - I found a small herb pot with a nice profile, like a triangle wave...about 2mm on each rising/falling edge, any good? I expect I'll rip a bazillion before I get a good one - any tips?

Also, did you remove the fine mesh inside, leaving just one wire layer surrounding the ribbon? Any improvement in sound quality?

Also what are the common adv/disadvantages playing with ribbon thickness and material (if any)?

Cheers Tom
 
Hi Tom,

[quote author="TomWaterman"]How did you cut the artists' leaf - a scalpel/steel rule on a smooth surface? This stuff is so fine and I sense a tortmenting time ahead.[/quote]

Yes, that will do fine. Get yourself a cup of tea, a glass of wine or a beer first though. I also listen to music which somehow helps. You may need to breathe under your jumper or shirt if you are having problems keeping the foil stable!

How did you corrugate and in what patterns - I found a small herb pot with a nice profile, like a triangle wave...about 2mm on each rising/falling edge, any good? I expect I'll rip a bazillion before I get a good one - any tips?

I use two meshed gears. 2mm should be ok - perhaps a little too deep. You may have to corrugate quite slowly to avoid ripping. Don't rush through twenty and rip them all. Cut five and take your time to make sure that one is ok.

Also, did you remove the fine mesh inside, leaving just one wire layer surrounding the ribbon? Any improvement in sound quality?

The fabric mesh has usually gone crap. I replace it with Reslo's later synthetic equivalent mesh. Basically, just chuck it. The wire gauze on the ribbon assembly is required, also it damps the bass response too which is required. The sound won't change too much - that mesh wasn't very thick.

Also what are the common adv/disadvantages playing with ribbon thickness and material (if any)?

There are many compromises. Thicker material (eg. 3 micron) is much easier to corrugate and is stronger. All ribbon should be aluminium. Thinner ribbon just sounds better though - thicker ribbon like the standard stuff has a boomy sound and is not as clear. This is due to audible resonances. The thinner ribbon has a nicer top-end.

Sensitivity (ribbon resistance) can be an issue with some mics due to ribbon thickness, but the Reslos like thin ribbons. They have a higher output with ~ 1 micron ribbon than they do when they have their original ~ 3 micron ribbons (I have a fresh NOS model to compare).
 
Thanks a lot Rod - I think I may need a few shots of Whisky before I start to steady the hand!! Fook me, I didn't realise the original material was three times thicker than the new stuff I'll try - this is going to be a pain in the a...

The outer mesh has gone a bit 'crispy' so I'll leave it off I think - how much more fragile will it become re. wind blasts etc?
I think I might try and construct some form of corrugation device, where did you get the meshed gears, meccano?

Thanks for the tips anyhoo
Tom
 
[quote author="TomWaterman"]
How did you cut the artists' leaf - a scalpel/steel rule on a smooth surface? This stuff is so fine and I sense a tortmenting time ahead.[/quote]

Place the foil in between two transparent pieces of paper and use brand new razor. This way the edges will be much smoother, with very little chance of ripping.

How did you corrugate and in what patterns - I found a small herb pot with a nice profile, like a triangle wave...about 2mm on each rising/falling edge, any good? I expect I'll rip a bazillion before I get a good one - any tips?

The right way is to use a good, high precision corrugator, with adjustable spacing between gears. You will need to readjust it (quite a torturous process) for different foil thiknesses. The reward--no ripped ribbons at all.

Once I was looking for the gears, and was quoted for high precision custom made ones at about $500 a piece, from different machine shops.
For me much more economical way was just to buy a CNC rotary table, grind cutters, and cut the gears myself.

Oh yeah, I even don't consider start ribboning those things without at least 6 pack of :guinness: :guinness: :guinness:

Also what are the common adv/disadvantages playing with ribbon thickness and material (if any)?

This is hit or miss. Some ribbon mics don't like thinner ribbons at all.
As Rody has already mentioned, because of less resonant modes (better damping) the thinner ones have better top end. In some mics though, they can have noticably higher noise and worse bass response.

[quote author="rodabod"]
...Reslos like thin ribbons. They have a higher output with ~ 1 micron ribbon than they do when they have their original ~ 3 micron ribbons (I have a fresh NOS model to compare).[/quote]

Are you sure the original Reslos had 3um ribbons? Also, they were ribboned with duralum, which after many years most likely got hardened and lost compliance (unless was kept in vacuum).

Theoretically, with proper loading, there should be no difference between 2.5um (not far from 3um, at least to be very noticable) and 1um ribbons output, as below 2.5um the mass of the surrounding air becomes comparable to the mass of the ribbon.
 

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