Magnetic induction question ---?

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northsiderap

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Messages
223
Location
Michigan
Some of you will figure out what this is really - - -

What would the waveform/voltage look like at terminals (1) & (2) with this wheel spinning at 1-3k?

There is a horseshoe magnet imbedded in the wheel.

InductionWheel.jpg


There is only room for the wire on the side of the wheel to try to create a voltage - - - Maybe I will have to eventually wind coils.

Anyone have a take on this?


Thanks


:guinness:
 
> What would the waveform/voltage look like

I want to say "zero". The electrons may ripple but I don't see a net current flow.

Put your horseshoe on a record-player, put a wire near it, feed a DC-coupled 'scope. Only difference 3,000RPM makes is 100 times the voltage and frequency; a good scope will give enough of a small clue to tell you if this is remotely interesting or useless.

If you are trying to get POWER, not just signal, I think you need a much better layout.
 
..yep, to generate current, your magnetic field lines has to cross (repeatedly) the conductor - it's no use having the field moving in the same plane, as no crossing will occur..

And the voltage/current (when setup is changed) will depend on magnetic field strength, speed and density of crossing field lines, and wire dimensions

Jakob E.
 
Here's how voltage is currently generated from this setup - to the tune of 10,000+ volts between (3) and (4). Powerful neodymium magnets + a stepup xformer.

InductionWheel2.jpg


I cannot tap this voltage, for it is very important for another purpose. There also is only probably 1/8 inch clearance between this wheel and its housing to try to eek any signal out.

I know this may seem like an odd question for this board, but I could think of no better people to ask than signal processing engineers!

P.S. Anyone know what this is yet? :green:

:guinness: :guinness: :guinness:
 
> Anyone know what this is yet?

Lawnmower flywheel, of course. (But not B+S: the coil would be inside, right?)

And you want to power a car-radio on the handlebar.

Put a switch on the cam-shaft. The mag makes a pulse every turn, but you only need a spark every other turn (unless this is a 2-stroke). Grab the alternate pulses onto a big cap and 15V 50W Zener. That's almost how my BSA ran its lights.
 
Wait, there's an easier way.

The magnet and coil make a bi-polar double-pulse. The ignition is timed to use one side of the pulse; the other is just necessary to complete a cycle (there are no monopole magnets on the market). Put a rectifier and low-ohm high-watt resistor across the points. One way, the rectifier will sap ignition power, the engine will misfire at low RPM. The other way, the power is free (of course a load on the engine net power output and fuel consumption). The voltage across points tends to be in the range of 10V-100V, usable (unlike the 10KV side). The "right" polarity may not be right for your car-radio; float the chassis.
 
A little off topic. Look at the power generating part

http://www.otherpower.com/17page1.html
 
Yes, this is a motorbike engine.

I'm going to try this - PRR; you should get your own statue somewhere for being a human encyclopedia.

First, I gotta replace the coil pack (transformer) because I notice that one side of it is de-lamming...

Thanks :thumb:
 
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