Im drilling my first rack case tomorrow..Help!

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Jonkan

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Jun 7, 2004
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So, i have finally pulled myself together to actually complete a diy project, and not just start a new one. What can i say... I like soldering alot more than metalworking.

Im gonna drill my rackcase tomorrow for my api/neve type preamps i have built.

I have never done this before, so i am a bit scared and anxious that i will ruin the rackcase.

Are there any particular tips you guys that has done this alot could give me, so that i minimize the risk of failing?

Im not gonna use a handheld drill, so that might help a bit.

I have come so far that i have marked all the holes on the case using mask tape and a pencil.

Thanks!
/Jonas
 
Here's tip #1 to get you started: Make sure the panel is clamped to the drill press. If you try to hold it it'll slip a tad.

Tip #2: Take your time and don't rush.

Tip #3: It's not a bad idea to cover the entire panel in masking tape to prevent scratches.

Tip #4: Apply steady pressure, but not too hard. Let the bit do the work. If your using aluminum, the bit will go through like butter.

I guess that it's. The hard part of making a panel is getting it laid out properly. The actuall drilling is a snap.
 
Don't forget to mark the holes with a centerpunch. That'll keep the drill bit from wandering.

Use a small bit--less than 1/8"--to start, and work your way up as necessary.
 
For IEC inlets i always use the method Jakob shows on his website.

http://www.gyraf.dk/gy_pd/1176/g1176_construct01.jpg

It's the easiest way i know. For XLR i guess you need to use punches as they are normally to big for any normal drill bit. If you don't have punches you can drill the hole with the biggest bit and then file the hole until the wanted size. Takes much more work though.

Oh and i always use those for marking the holes (Körner in german):

RE431120.jpg


Don't know what they are called in english but you can use them with a hammer and "smash" a very tiny hole where afterwards your big hole should be. The drill won't drift off if you start to drill.

[Edit] It seems that NewYorkDave was a bit faster. So ignore my last part :green:

Flo
 
Even if you don't tape the whole panel, at least tape where you'll be drilling so that metal chips/filings don't scratch up your panel. Use blue painters tape which will stick well, but not leave any residue if removed within a few days. Also, if you'll be drilling multiple hole sizes, you can mark these on the tape so you don't accidentally drill a 5/8" hole for your 3/16" LED indicator :shock: Clamp the work piece so you don't remove one of your fingers as it spins around when the bit grabs! For larger holes, I like the step bits, but some people don't. Punches are nice, but $$$$.

A P
 
you can also practice on a piece of cardboard - make sure you get the feel before you dig into the expensive panel.

I agree with you - its way better to work with the electronics, racking makes my heart skip because all of a sudden a mistake and aesthetic error makes a wonderful thing something that you might hate. I am still disgusted with the quickie job I did on my PM1K modules - but they are not even in a case really and I plan to "finish" them - its the same deal, I started 5 other projects cause I hate the metal work :razz:

a drill press definitely helps a lot - and files - and a good clamp. Or even better - a friend who worked in a shop or grew up in the sticks where they had to take shop class :grin:
 
For IEC connectors, I use a dremel with a heavy duty cutoff disk... it works great. Then I use a file attachment for the final touches.
 
> never done this before... i will ruin the rackcase.

It is hard work to ruin a rackcase. It's just metal. A big hammer fixes anything. Your ancestors hammered red dirt into fine swords and plows. When a rackcase falls off a truck, we just bang it back into shape. When idiots ask why it looks banged-up, tell them it fell off a truck.

I would worry more about ruining you. When the drill jams in a big piece of sheetmetal, it will slice a lot of flesh. You need to clamp to something so big that the drill can't turn it. A drill-press is a better plan than a hand-held power drill, because when a hand-drill jams in well-clamped metal, it back-spins and breaks your wrist.

You won't get all the holes lined up perfectly. Not the first time, and maybe never.

Use a centerpunch/Körner to make a dent to start the drill. Ideally, one good bang does it. Bang-bang-bang gives a non-round dent. If the dent is off-center, you can try slanting the punch and working the dent sideways. (Never works for me.)

In aluminum, it is possible to drill large holes with a cheap spade drill sold for home wood-working. You need a thick piece of HARD wood under the metal to guide the point. You may need more wood on top to keep the metal flat. Yes, that means you can not see the mark on the metal: put a 1/16" or 1mm-2mm hole in the metal and both pieces of wood, and line it up before you clamp.

IEC inlets: take a big hammer, a big centerpunch, and a soft board. Start hammering the punch through the board into the wood until the hole is 1/2". Pry it out of the wood, and wobble the punch to bend-back the rough metal inside the hole. Turn the metal over and tap the rough edge all the way down. Cut the power cord off an old lamp or PC, wrap some tape around the end, shove it through the hole, and tie a knot on the inside. Strip and wire to a fuse and switch and case-screw. Save the IEC inlet.... it might be useful some day (I doubt it).
 
[quote author="PRR"]Save the IEC inlet.... it might be useful some day (I doubt it).[/quote]

:green: :green: :green: That's exactly what I do. Scavenged cords and all.
 
I don't bother with IEC inlets. I hardwire the power cord and mount it with a strain relief, the old-fashioned way. I'm not planning on taking my equipment overseas anytime soon--and my stuff is 120V-only, anyway. Also, there's no worry about the IEC cord falling out in the middle of a session...
 
thanks for the tips!

Originally i was going to get some help from a person who does this sort of thing all the time..but he just had a baby and doesnt have the time anymore.

So i have called in my dad, who grew up in a machine shop pretty much. My grandad used to build machines.

He has alot more drill experience than me,
so i guess im not totally screwed :green:

Sadly, the case is a cheap monacor case. So its not aluminum, and may be a bit harder to work on.

Btw, Ill be shure to let you know how it went!
/Jonas
 
ok, done!

Everything went great!

One small hole got about 0.5mm off, but i think i can dremel it so the switch comes in the right place once mounted.

The xlr holes was a bit tricky, and i have to use a dremel to get the small holes to align properly, but the xlr connectors themselves should cover up any ugliness i guess.

So to sum up: Im very happy!!!

/jonas
 
[quote author="Jonkan"]One small hole got about 0.5mm off[/quote]

Boo-hoo.

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:thumb:

Feels good, doesn't it? Metal work is no biggie. And DIY gear should look DIY. :twisted:
 

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