Newbie ssl question...

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This is my first post and I'm looking forward to getting going on my ssl project. I do have 2 questions that everyone will probably laugh at, but first is....

Everyone uses wire inside their boxes to connect things. Is there a certain type you should get?

Also, I was looking in the SSL meta thread but the link was dead, how are the circuits modified if I choose to use a 2180 vca. I was hoping to take advantage of the latest design and not have to worry about the trimmers at the same time, but I want to make sure I have a good fell for how it will change the layout before I order all the components. i just got my pcb's and i'm looking forward to getting started.

Thanks,
Brandon
 
Welcome Brandon. I've also got two SSL's on the way to being built so it will be nice for you to know that all the questions can and will be answered here By someone. Ahem, that someone probably won't be me though. I'm pretty new to DIY but have lingered here long enough to have some information for you. I read a post by Kev that the number 4 lead is not connected for the 2180's 2181'a also I presume because of their pretimmed nature. As for wire I purchased 6 different coloured 22 gauge teflon coated(at least I think it's teflon) wire for about $20.00 Canadian on E-Bay. 20 feet each color. Should do me for a couple of projects. I may need sheilded cable in some spots in my G9 but I'm not there yet as far as wiring. Try doing a search on 2180 add la lb or lc to the 2180 as for wire try wire or hook up wire, sheilded etc. I'm sure you'll find the info you need. Welcome to DIY
Later
 
Hello Brandon,

welcome!

for the wire, i assume you mean to/from the XLR and/or 1/4" jacks.. for those i would use a piece of balanced cable from an old insert cable or something of that nature... two conductors with shielding.

for the 2180's I used these myself. the circuit does not need to be modified, but you can actually leave out a few components. one of which is the trimmer pot, the others are a few resistors. the difference is that pin 4 on the 2180's are a N/C or Not Connected. You'll have to check the schematic for the resistors you can leave out because i don't remember off hand.

good luck and cheers! :guinness:
 
hey guys, thanks for the replies. By wire, I was referring to the wire inside the box. The leads going from pcb to pcb, and the wire need from the power transformer to the pcb....things like that. I'll look for some of the wire on ebay, but is there a typical wire people are ordering from mouser or digikey. While I'm putting in the orders for those, I might as well get everything I can.

I have the wire covered for the cables I'm using to connect the unit. They're coming from elco tie line snakes from my console. Those put a whole 'nother world of hurting on my in my debut as a DIYer.

Svart-where might I find the updated schematic from the 2180's...I ordered the pcbs from audiokitchen, will these still work for the 2180's.

Thanks again,
Brandon
 
Any kind of stranded wire will work fine. I typically use 22 gauge wire for hookup. The copper stuff at radio shack I actually like quite a lot. Teflon wire is on the "audiophool" list of things, Im not sure that you'll hear difference between that and copper wire, but I get NTE wire locally for $8 for 100 feet, this place has teflon for the same price, when I run out I'll probably try it.

http://www.apexjr.com/wire.html

If you use solid wire, the advantage of that is that your lead dress will stay where you put it, the disadvantage is that it tends to break if you are moving it at the solder connection alot, which if you are trouble shooting, can tend to be often.

Dont stress about the wire too much.

dave
 
I meant balanced cable for the inside of the unit from the inputs/outputs to the board itself. other than that I just used standard 20ga wire, colors are just to suit your taste!

schematics are availible at www.gyraf.dk go to the DIY projects then to ssl and you will see the link to the schematics. Looks like a 10k, 68r and the trim you can leave off the board.

:thumb:
 
I use 22awg Alpha Wire w/ Teflon insulation. I don't know about this making things sound better, but it's great and easy to work with.

Digikey part number: A5855R-100-ND
This is red but they also have other colors.
 
I don't think Teflon insulation has audio benefits. Just my non-wire specialist opinion of course. It's known for its heat rating, mechanical abrasion resistance and it doesn?t break down like other insulations do after they are heated repeatedly. But maybe some can hear the difference. :roll: Maybe not. If you think it sounds better buy some chicken heads, you'll never go back. Wire is wire, the more strands the wire has the more flexibility and strength it has (to a point). Solid core retains its shape but may cause wear on other items when you move it or have to repair something. Hey maybe the Teflon wire does make a difference for aircraft that reach the speed of sound, Can't use crappy old cloth wire in say a fighter A/C. There my friend is the audio benefit, the sonic Boom. Crap I hate working nights, my brain gets pretty foggy. Teflon or not Teflon? Copper? Tin-plated. Use the part number greg posted, it will do fine.
 
I'm a (big time :shock: ) ssl newbie :roll:

I have just soldered all the NE5532 and NE5534 on the PCB but I have soldered them directly onto the PCB - I have seen pictures of other SSL projects and it seems that the NE55xx all are placed in sockets and not soldered directly onto the PCB???????

Is there any hope for me?? :green:
 
Probably not.

Now pray, that you mounted them right, and that they won't burn out due to a short somewhere.

ALWAYS use IC-sockets. If not for your own sake, then for someone that will repair the pcb in ten or twenty years..

Jakob E.
 
aslong u got em placed the right way and are sure ya voltages are all good etc - you should be okay. just means it's gonna pain the ass if you need replace any if it goes tits up...sockets are just used as u can plugin/out ic's quicktime...
 
in all this about using sockets for ease of use, has anyone been able to measure an audible difference between using a socket and not using one? most sockets specify a fairly high contact resistance which theory makes me believe would build up over the course of a few ICs to add noise.. am I thinking correctly here? I'm not saying i can even hear it but has anyone ever bothered to measure it?

just a thought, no big deal, I use sockets for everything anyway.. :green:
 
contact resistance in the sub-miliOhm range, capacitance in the sub-pF range.

Not something I would worry about..

Though I'm sure you could find audiophools that would claim something else..

Jakob E.
 
hhmm ok

but how do I know that I have placed them the right way - there's a little mark on the PCB where the NE55xx should be placed and there's a little round mark in the corner of the NE55xx's - I've turned the NE55xx's so those marks line up....??
 
that's correct. the notch/dot lines up with the notch/dot on the silkscreen.

IF you are absolutely sure that the ICs are the ones you want to use(right brand/model/batch, etc.. yes some people are that picky!) and you are sure you have them in correctly, then by all means solder them in place. most people use sockets because it's easier to try many different ICs and easier to repair *if* something goes wrong. take your time, make sure you have the right parts, installed correctly and you shouldn't have any problems anyway.


:thumb:
 
I'm in the middle of building up my first DIY...i have various switches for the GSSL...2POLE 6POS...etc

How do i get my switch positions and poles to all line up properly with the graphic on my frontpanel? Can i take the switches apart and position them differently?

Additionally...how do i change the switch from say 5pos to 6 pos...
The switch model number says...4POL 2-3 POS...so i'm assuming you can change how many positions there are...
 

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