Hoyt VU Meters

Are Hoyt meters any good?

I picked up two and was curious if I can use these for anything? I think the model number is 2135.

Something tells me these were used on a Scully 280...?

I have some Scully 280 meters - I don't see the Hoyt name on them anywhere. The painted-on model number I have is 2136. There is also a paper label on them that says 'API parts' of all things. It also says 'Magnetic Mtg.' and has a model number 361.

I've also had some experience with smaller Hoyt meters in other products and they seem to be well made.

Hope this helps.

Man, I got these meters in today.

They look like they kick ass! :green:

$15 each! Made in the U.S. of A., baby! Aw, yeah!

:guinness:





I can try to contact the seller if you want. I think he had 50 left...

Please do! Let us know. 50 is a little more than I need.

But I can take 4 to 6. Thanks.

jim

I used the Hoyt VU meters back in the early 1970's and I remember them as being very very good. They were not quite as good as the API361 and Weston VU meters but didn't cost nearly as much either.

Don't forget to use a 3.6k resistor in series with them, and a unity gain buffer amp to drive them.

Fred,

I was hoping to use these for an LA-2a clone. That's what I was thinking anyway...

If you don't know already, I am a newbie at this DIY thing, although I have built and maintained several tube guitar amps, so I know a little more than just enough to be dangerous... :grin:

Does the LA-2A have it's own unity gain buffer amp to drive these meters?

Thanks,
Chris

LA-2a's and 1176s have a problem with this sort of thing. You can't buffer and have a galvanically isolated output without building a fully-floating (completely isolated) power supply for the buffer.

The whole purpose of the LA-2a and the classic iterations of the 1176 having passive moving-coil meters is that they sit directly across the outputs and show loading effects. However since all the outputs are galvanically isolated transformer secondaries, the meter has to be able to operate without any connection or reference to the unit's power supply. That rules out a buffer unless you're willing to build yet another isolated supply in there, or you're willing to sacrifice the isolation.

Here's why you probably shouldn't worry about the buffer on these devices:

Since the distortion (typically about 0.3%) only happens when the meter is loading the output. Therefore, when the meter is switched to 'GR' mode, the distortion disappears... no need for a buffer. -Since most of the time, the compressors are operated displaying Gain Reduction, and the output is usually only checked occasionaly during setup, there's no real need to go to all that trouble. -Just switch to 'GR' when it's operating and the problem goes away!

Keith

Emailed the guy I bought it from...

He said he sold the lot of 50 to some "dealer"... :shock:

Unfortunately, I think at a cost of $15 a piece, that dealer will up the price... if he sells... :sad:

I guess I should be fortunate I got two! :green:

Thanks for trying fazeka. I'll get mine in the future somehow. Not in any hurry but for that price I would have jumped on a few.

Good deal!
You will have to figure out some lighting.

Oh, and just some useless info, get the meter before you cut the front panel!