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Skylar

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 16, 2005
Messages
1,021
Location
Irvine, CA
Hi everybody!  I've been hanging around this forum for several months, soaking up knowledge from all you fine lads.  I finally have something add!

I plan to build a G9 and have put together a heavily-revised parts list (based upon Paul Stephan's original spreadsheet)--so I thought I would share it with everyone:

G9partsMar-04-2006.xls
[If anyone happens to notice any glaring mistakes, please let me know]

The total cost could easily drop by 100-200 bucks with better sourcing and cheaper part selection, but this particular setup is geared towards the fellow who is just starting out in DIY and wants the best parts for this project (hey that sounds like me!).  The shipping prices are TBD--I will order this stuff as soon as I get back from a business trip next week in Santa Cruz, CA (woohoo!).  Anyway, I think this would make a good reference point for fellow beginners or just a good template.

Some new features of this spreadsheet are:
-improved organization of parts
-cost sorted by component type
-cost sorted by supplier
-shipping costs per supplier
-xformer quantity/price auto-adjustment depending upon xformer choice

Plans are also in place to build some LA-2As, 1176s, Pultecs--so expect to see some parts lists for these as well.  My thanks to Paul for his original spreadsheet.  And most importantly, let's give a resounding applause to Jakob for his wonderful projects!

[EDIT] link fixed

[EDIT] link fixed again.
Note that some parts are struck-through. I recommend finding alternate sources for such parts.
 
hi skylar,
welcome to the lab! great job on the G9 BOM! :thumb:
you've been on the post for just momments and you're already contributing.
that is awesome!
i was planning on buying parts for this build real soon, so this helps a lot.
thanks,
grant
 
Nice BOM! I'm working from Paul Stephan's sheet myself. It's surprising to see that so many components have actually gotten cheaper!

I noticed your using the Avel transformers from partsexpress.com... Your unit price reflects their website price of $24.72, yet your ext. price for the 2 units was $33.66. Is this a typo, or did you get some sort of quantity discount?

Thanks again!

P.S... I would reccomend you check Small Bear Electronics for your knobs. They have the large and small black/chrome G9'ish knobs for $.70 and $.65 ea.
 
JasonWWW,

Yeah, the ext price on the toroids was a typo, thanks. I have re-uploaded a corrected spreadsheet (use the link from above). Fixes include:

-corrected toroid price formula
-updated Triode prices/PNs
-added more shipping amounts
-added more crimp terminals (I know how you guys love crimp terminals!)
-various formatting fixes
-added Rev number

As for the knobs, I really have my heart set on the OKW knobs listed--I know there are plently of places to get cheaper knobs...heck I've got over 100 knobs I could use, but I want these:

zA1321060.jpg


Anyone have some of these they wouldn't mind selling me? Maybe a groupbuy? They're $3.68ea for 10 or more (in multiples of 10 only)...
 
Skylar, do your Wima polyester caps from Mouser have the correct lead spacing for the PCB? I ended up choosing a bunch of other caps because I couldn't find Wimas that fit...
 
underthebigtree,

I don't know for absolute certain that the Wimas I selected will work with the PCB's lead spacing. I chose Wimas because that's what Jakob seemed to recommend, plus I've seen others using them. I ordered a PCB from Gustav. What I'll do is wait 'til that arrives, measures the lead spacing, then compare that to the Wima's datasheets. I will make adjustments to my BOM as needed, and keep you guys updated. UNLESS, someone already happens to know the lead spacing for the non-radial caps. Alternatively, do the Gerber files at gyraf.dk make the spacing apparent?


Jakob,

No, no...good work to you sir.
 
Hey guys,
I have just stuffed my G9 boards and had ordered from that list and there a few errors. Will check skylars list tomorrow against it. Some of the wima's are the wrong size and some of the parts Mouser wanted crazy minimum's????
 
Issues that I remember with this parts list:

-There are a couple WIMAs whose pcb lead spacing is too small (the capacitance/voltage values should be correct though). Even if you have already ordered them, they should still work. On my G9, I simply bent the leads out so that they'd fit on the PCB.

-Regarding the mouser minimums: It has been almost a year since I ordered the stuff on this list, so I can see how mouser may have changed the minimums on some of these parts.

-There's a 10uf/63V epcos cap I ordered from Farnell on this list which turned out to be waaaay too small in size to fit on the PCB. I think I later found a replacement WIMA from mouser. Lesson learned-->always check the datasheets on components to verify correct PCB spacing/size.

-The Nichicon electrolytics are over-spec'd for voltage; this isn't necessarily a bad thing--it just means their casing is slightly larger, which will result in some tight fits near the Power Supply section of the PCB.

-The #47 pilot bulb is only rated for 6V. If you use this bulb, it will burn out after a couple of days. Best to get a bulb rated for 12V. I replaced mine with one of these:

http://www.ledtronics.com/product_news/pr_article_052104.htm

-The crimp terminals and socket connectors on this list are a pain in the ass to assemble. I ended up using friction lock headers instead.

-The angled terminal blocks I chose don't fit on the PCB very well. I had to use and exacto blade to modify their dimensions.

-Double check the IC heatsinks. I think the larger one that's on this list is not the right form factor.

-The shielded pcb sockets for the tubes are too wide to fit, so I had to cut the metal shrouds off of the sockets. Ultimately, I could not use the shields. My advice: don't waste your money on the shields or shield-ready tube sockets--just buy the normal kind.


That being said, I updated the spreadsheet slightly:
-changed first cap on list to one with correct lead spacing
-crossed out stuff that you shouldn't buy (see comments above)


On a another note (and while I'm at it), I highly recommend using individually shielded conductors between the main and switch PCBs. In addition to this, I also endorse the inst jack mod:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=114787
 
Off the top of my head here's what I can remember.

.22uf/250v Wima's are wrong spacing

like Skylar said check the heatsinks, they aren't quite right

terminal blocks for power input are too big

5way 2.54mm mouser part number should be 538-50-57-9405

there is not enough space for the 5 and 10 way socket and headers on the front board between the pcb and the front of the chassis, tried a right angle one as well but it was too large as well, looks like i'm hard wiring it!!

Should get mine wired up in the next few weeks, have some 1540 and JLM 111DC so am going to compare the difference.

viva la DIY
 

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