How do I drill a back panel for xlr connections?

Hey guys, I'm building a dual 1176, and it's my first diy project, so I have some pretty dumb questions. I just ordered a 19" chassis from par-metal, but I'm wondering how the heck to drill the back panel for the xlr connectors and the ac plug. Do I need special equipment? I'm basically working with a cordless drill....I'm a screwed? Should I pay par-metal the extra $50 to drill out the back panel?

Thanks,
Joe

Hey Joe, do a search for "whole punch" or keep on reading here: http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=3035&highlight=whole+punch

Olaf

can make real ugly holeswith a cordless and regular bits. but essentially you need 1 of 2 things a metal punch that does the size you need or a stepped Drill bit. I would go with ther stepped bit as one could do various size holes for the same price as the punch. then use the stepped bit with the cordless and it works o.k. or better use a drill press and the stepped bit. Now you would need the stepped bit in MM measurements versus inches and you will find XLR pannel mounts are just under an 1 inch. using a 1 inch bit is slightly too large and a 3/4 inch is two small.

-Greenlee 11/16" punch (if you DIY, its worth the expense)
-3/8" drill bit for the starter hole
-Neutrik chassis XLRs that have the same mounting requirements regardless of gender.

the sizes are different depending on what brand of chassis mount xlr's you use. neutriks are 15/16" male and female. Switchcrafts are larger or smaller depending on the sex. I use a stepped bit. chassis punches are cool. I wish a could afford a nice set. we've got some at work but they are dull and they slip and kind of ruin the paint/finish around the hole. use some masking tape to protect the chassis while you drill your holes. best of luck.

old neutriks did need sdifferent holes for the male and female .. eh . i like them better than the newer D size. the different sizes are also most common on older gear

i use the Ds whenever i'm doing racks / flightcases / FOH gear. it's pretty nice to able to change to whatever male / female / jack plug on a 19" 12 hole 1U strip without having to throw the lot out and start from scratch

how much is out there in that D size? toslink? firewire / USB? i haven't seen good DIN ones (for MIDID) yet. got phonos and bnc

like the others said, punchblocks is the (only) way to go

oops, yup 15/16" is the greenlee size to get


rat shack nibbler for the IECs

4 - 12mm drill in 1mm steps
CAT. NO. TD2436
12 - 20mm drill in 1mm steps
CAT. NO. TD2438

JAYCAR

I work in aluminium so the stepper drills above work well

Step Drill Bits

Drill multiple size holes with the one bit! You can drill through plastics and un-hardened metals (such as aluminium or copper sheeting etc) up to 4mm thick! A great benefit of using the step drills is all you need to do to de-burr the hole is drill a little bit further so that the next size up touches the hole! Made from high speed stainless steel (HSS), they will last for a very long time.
Two sizes available:
4 - 12mm drill in 1mm steps - TD-2436
12 - 20mm drill in 1mm steps - TD-2438

look here

I use either a stepper drill or a 24mm QMax Punch (they seem to fit the Neutrik D series ones better thena a 25mm one)
Oh - and make sure it is the back panel - last one I did I nearly broke my elbow getting torque on a XLR chassis hole - and then realised I went through the front panel of 3mm steel

I spent Sunday afternoon drilling holes holes and cutting out the spaces for the meter and and IEC for my to-be-built 1176 - my first project that's not a kit :grin:

I bought a cheapo drill press, and two DeWalt step drill bits on eBay. One is 4-10mm and the other 12-24mm (or something like that). The large one at 24mm max can do pretty much any XLR hole.

I used a digital caliper to measure the diameter of the XLR (or anything else) bfore I started drilling, to make sure I knew when to stop the drill. All worked nicely.

Here's hoping the build goes as smoothly as the case, although my arm killed from filing the cutout for the meter to size (wish I had a nibbler)!

:thumb:

If you're going through aluminum, and it's thin enough you can get away with a spade bit. Drill a pilot hole just under the max diameter of the pilot tip of the spade bit. Works well for me.