NewYorkDave 2 bottle- output attenuator?

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Freddy G

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2004
Messages
481
Location
Canada
Hi,
I'd like to install an output attenuator in my NYD-2B preamp.
Could someone kindly explain how to do this?
What value pot? Before or after the output transformer?
Thanks,
Freddy :sam:
 
You could use a 1K audio-taper pot after the output transformer. A constant-impedance stepped attenuator would be better, but the pot will work OK. Just make sure the load that follows the pot is not less than 1.5kOhms.
 
Thanks Dave,
I've got a bunch of different styles of attenuators I could use (24 position Goldpoint Elma switches). There is a shunt, a ladder and a mini V. Would one of these work as a constant impedance stepped attenuator?
(every time I write the word "impedance" now I think about my "re-amp" box that I silk screened "Impedence"!) :oops:
Freddy :sam:
 
On my two-bottle, I did the unbalanced (floating) bridged-T 600-ohm attenuator newyorkdave posted on the original one-bottle thread.

There were only 6-step dual switches available here on short notice so I recalculated some values and did a version that does 5dB attenuation steps to -25dB and the off position.

Simple and works like a charm.

There are some calculators for just this purpose to work out your own stepping somewhere on the net. I seem to have misplaced the links that I used.
 
Are you guys adding the output attenuator in order to be able to vary the output and still drive the the input? That seems pretty worthwhile - I've been having a lot of fun using my 2 bottle as a preamp for my guitar. I wouldn't mind having some tone controls. :razz:

Kiira
 
[quote author="kiira"]Are you guys adding the output attenuator in order to be able to vary the output and still drive the the input?[/quote]

Yeah. Admittedly, due to the pre-amp design the gain is very linear and driving it is rather subtle. I accidentally usually saturate the output transformers before noticing much impact on sound.

In fact, I asked about similar no-frills designs that can be abused as well. Collins 6q1 was suggested with interstage gain added, but newyorkdave's response was this:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=16727&highlight=

.. a no-feedback mod of the one-bottle, capable of a tubey driven sound as well. :thumb: Certainly on my to-do list.
 
And don't forget an old trick for an attenuator--insert a pot between + and - of the output transformer secondaries --simple and elegant.
 
normal_OutputAttens.png


Larger version
 
Hi Group:

There's a little problem with figure #1.
It's actually not an attenuator at all.
It's a sort of a phase rotator really.
At center rotation the signal cancels.
I just thought I'd bring it up before
someone builds it.

RonL
http://www.nashaudio.com

PHASESHIFT.JPG
 
[quote author="rlaury"]Hi Group:

There's a little problem with figure #1.
It's actually not an attenuator at all.
It's a sort of a phase rotator really.
At center rotation the signal cancels.
I just thought I'd bring it up before
someone builds it.[/quote]

You sure ? The sim might be fooling us for not showing a completely floating secondary.
I've never tried this kind of att myself but have seen it being mentioned & used, so can't imagine it won't work.

(This is another of those posts that I wouldn't have replied to if it was April 1st since I'm not sure if it's.... :wink: )

Regards,

Peter
 
[quote author="Kingston"]

Yeah. Admittedly, due to the pre-amp design the gain is very linear and driving it is rather subtle. I accidentally usually saturate the output transformers before noticing much impact on sound.

In fact, I asked about similar no-frills designs that can be abused as well. Collins 6q1 was suggested with interstage gain added, but newyorkdave's response was this:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=16727&highlight=

.. a no-feedback mod of the one-bottle, capable of a tubey driven sound as well. :thumb: Certainly on my to-do list.[/quote]

Oh thanks Kingston I had not seen that one from Dave. I'd be interested in that as well, I need a pre to put into the pre-comp-eq I've started and a one bottle would be nice.

So you made a 6 step bridged T attenuator from the design Dave provided a while back? I had to take my atten. out because it was causing big trouble, but with all the gain this has I'll need one and a multi value one would be really nice. Maybe I'll bug you shortly about wiring it up.... I have this major inability to translate switch schematics into the 3D world of the switch. urk :?

I've already used mine briefly to do a little demonstration tracking for some friends' band. They use stuff like the 1216M (I think?) for pres and they were just blown away by the clear full sound of the NYD-2b. I think their idea of what toobs sound like was based on the starved plate designs that are around... not a real tube design.

later,

Kiira
 
The simulator will only show you signal amplitudes relative to ground. Sometimes you need to define "ground" in a simulated circuit in a manner that's different from how it's wired in real life--or else you'll get misleading results.

You need to look at the relative amplitude between pins 2 and 3 of the XLR. So, to get the simulator to display correctly, ground the low side of the attenuator.

In real life, the low side can be grounded or ungrounded, at the user's option, depending on what yields the best results. It's just a simple voltage divider circuit.

what are the resistor and pot values

It's a bridged-T attenuator. The two fixed resistors are 600 ohms. The dual "pot" is an unequal value with a special taper; it's not a pot you can buy commercially, at least not nowadays. The usual way of implementing this now would be as a stepped attenuator, using a two-pole switch. Here's an example:
Schematic
 
RE: Fig1
Your ok if you ground one side. But not ok floating.
Build and try it. Look at it with a scope. When the upper arm
of the voltage divider is equal R to the lower arm, the signal
cancels. When upper arm is larger R than the lower, the phase is
flipped. I don't see any benefit of having the transformer if
you have to ground one side. The other fig's are correct though.
The fig below is workable version of fig1. Maybe this is what you
were thinking about.

ATTEN.jpg


RonL
http://www.nashaudio.com
 
Dude, you're not getting it. I didn't say you have to ground one side in real life--you can if you want, but you don't have to. But you DO have to ground one side in the simulator if you want the simulation to run correctly. Simulations are not reality!

People get so wrapped up in the idea of "ground"... The destination device (whatever it is) hooked up to the XLR jack cares about the amplitude difference between pins 2 and 3 and doesn't give two shits if one of them is "ground" or not. But the simulator does care--it will only show you the amplitude relative to ground, not some arbitrary point, so you have to play along and ground one of those pins to see the voltage difference between them.

Another trick: set up another transformer, 1:1, to represent your balanced receiver. Inject the output of the pot into its primary, ground the low side of the secondary (to give your simulator that reference it needs to keep it happy) and look at the signal voltage at the high side of the secondary as you run the pot up and down.

Build and try it.

Indeed. It works, and takes about as much time to wire up as it does to simulate.
 
[quote author="NewYorkDave"]Dude, you're not getting it. .... But you DO have to ground one side in the simulator if you want the simulation to run correctly. Simulations are not reality![/quote]
that's why they call them sim.... :shock: nevermind Dave

it does actually take some time to write a good model in software
and then check the device in reality
and then go back to the model to make adjustments

and around and around you go

then when you have good data you can inject the results in to the more complicated Simulator that carries even more data and more models

and around and around you go

:grin:

yes when done right it call all be worth it
and
yes for the simple stuff
it's just easier to build and test the real thing
 
Hmmmmmm, haven't we talked about this before. :wink:

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=2229

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=5779

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=2192

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=1860
 
Back
Top