G 1176 vs PURPLE AUDIO MC76 vs UREI 1176

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How does the G 1176 sound on vocals and overall?

  • not bad

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Close enough

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • very nice but still not the real thing

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • just perfect

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • wow even better :green:

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .
Ed, glad to see you in the discussion. A purple kit is in my future, I hope.

Just wanted to also mention there is another 1176 kit and PCBs available from Eddie Ciletti and Scott Liebert. It's got Neve-ish class A guts, running at higher voltage and looks very interesting. You can even add a mic pre to it to take advantage of the Neve-ish circuit. We've just been discussing it over in the Brewery. Check there for more info under the Ciletti thread. http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=18106&start=15&sid=84e9d5bd4de7803db4cf599409db4aaf
 
I agree with Ed - it's not practical to mod the Gyraf or my board to the class A version. But it would be possible to do a new revision to the output amp section of my version of the G1176 for the group - but only if it doesn't upset anyone to do it. Might make putting two channels in one 2U case practical too, which seems to be the direction a lot of people are going with the rotary switch option...
 
I have made the Eddie Cilleti "1176". I love it. It has an open top end that is really useful and i find myself going to it quite often over either of my other 76's or my Distressor, especially with vocals, etc.
They were very helpful as well
Ian

I personally would love to look into some of the changes that Mnats is talking about
 
i've got two g1176's with ic in, OEP out, and two with OEP in and out.

background_diy.jpg

(the silver face is the OEP i/o, the black unit is the ic in, with slam mode dpdt. the top unit is a dual what? opto)

i have no idea what a true 1176 is supposed to sound like. but do i think it actually matters? hmmm. no(?)
each of my units has a different character, due to differences in capacitors etc, and that's the way i like it. each unit has a different use, and fits a different purpose.

but i understand that is totally ignoring physical differences in board design.

so i ain't really much help.

chris.
 
[quote author="mfdu"]i've got two g1176's with ic in, OEP out, and two with OEP in and out.

(the silver face is the OEP i/o, the black unit is the ic in, with slam mode dpdt. the top unit is a dual what? opto)

i have no idea what a true 1176 is supposed to sound like. but do i think it actually matters? hmmm. no(?)
each of my units has a different character, due to differences in capacitors etc, and that's the way i like it. each unit has a different use, and fits a different purpose.

but i understand that is totally ignoring physical differences in board design.

so i ain't really much help.

chris.[/quote]

I like hearing other opinions about the tranny/sound differences... it helps get an idea what to expect - especially when you can make "sound" comparisons to units like the DISTRESSOR... they're pretty comon & consistant sounding.

Kevin
 
see... i'm tellin ya, its the stuff that is new/hybrid, etc, that is the coolest thing around... nothings 'new,' i know i know, sometimes, but hey, its all a bunch of legos right?

we're just big kids with legos, come on.

some of us can build the ferris wheel, some of us the starship cruiser, and some of us cant get the two flat pieces apart. so we add a third, and it equals a normal lego.
 
I like hearing other opinions about the tranny/sound differences... it helps get an idea what to expect - especially when you can make "sound" comparisons to units like the DISTRESSOR... they're pretty comon & consistant sounding.

Kevin

Distressors are transformer less. Just one of te reason's they appear cleaner then some other designs. Circuitry of the Distressor is derived from the 1176. Mine have the British mode option, what mimics the effect you get when pushing all for ratio buttons at once on early 1176's. It's not the same, but very usefull when applied to the right sounds.
 
I am seriously considering a Purple MC77 for my next DIY. Can someone tell me how difficult it is to DIY the MC77 with KIT option on the scale of 10 if the G-SSL is on level 4?

Also does anyone know How much in parts does it cost beside the 300$ for the KIT. I will use my own 1176 case so minus the cost for the case.

Another thing, Keith you mentioned there is some tweaking needed for the 1176. Can you be more specific about it? Isn't this more or less just a plug and play DIY like G-SSL?
 
There's meter zero (easy), bias (easy), meter tracking (some patience needed) and that's about it... -I can't remember if there's a distortion trip or not, but I suspect not... the FET feedback is fixed, so shouldn't be too tough.

Keith
 
Thanks Keith :thumb:

What about the approximate additional cost for the parts beside the MC77 KIT and case?

Another thing which is very important to me :shock: do I need to go with push buttons for the MC77 DIY or can it be done like on the G 1176?
 
Purusha,
the additional costs to the Purple kit are not easy to say as it is very dependend on what you WANT to add... For you, the case may not be the problem :wink: but you have to consider that caps can be of very different quality and prices (say Elna Starget NOS or Nichicon or Panasonic or NoName...with prices that differ from cents to dollars! ) as is for the transistors (original NOS, used or modern xreferences) or even the resistors (there are audiophile resistors out there that cost ten times as much as standard 1% metal film-... :shock: ). So it is for the switches - it is easy to raise the price to a multiple if you go with Elma or Grayhill instead of that cheapy plastics we all use a lot... :grin:
So i really do not get the point in the question you repeated, really...
If i would say: Go for the best quality with little compromise and invest e.g. another 300$ in the rest of the parts, trying to be authentic with the transistors and neutral with the elyts and use 1%Metal film res thruout, while doing your own case (that look very fine IMO)...would that answer your question for a recommendation?
:?:

Kind regards,

Martin

PS: there should be no problem at all to wire the purple kit with rotaries instead of switch banks....
 
So it is for the switches - it is easy to raise the price to a multiple if you go with Elma or Grayhill instead of that cheapy plastics we all use a lot... Very Happy

There are only two switches needed if I am right so this can't be a lot more expensive even if I take the Elma or Grayhill. I don't know about how many caps go into one MC77 but I can order some Nichicons or Rubycons for this. Regarding the resistors I'll stay with 1% metal. OK, so in all I could get away with 600$ or less. Thanks for the info.
 
There are only two switches needed if I am right so this can't be a lot more expensive even if I take the Elma or Grayhill.
I just spoke for the switches not for the unit ('raising to a multiple'), sorry i did not make that clear.

:grin: Yes, i think so. I calculated this amount (~ 600$) for myself some time ago - and decided to let this project have a break until i can afford a dual mono version 'out of the pocket' later.... :wink:

Kind regards,
:thumb:
Martin[/quote]
 
my diy 1176 uses Lorlin switches instead of pushbuttons.
Lorlins can be had for as little as 1 - 1,5 euro.
 
Tommy,
I used a Cinemag on input, Sowter on output. Love the sound..
Vashon is a fortuitous place to live. Nice and slow, but close enough to Seattle to be able to pop in. Getting more crowded by the moment though.
Ian
 
more information about the mc76 kit, including the parts list PDF that we provide, can be seen at:

http://purpleaudio.com/Product/MC76kit.html

ed
 
[quote author="edanderson"]also, the MC76 kit page is going to be updated to include the ratio and meter switchbanks and caps, which are now included in the $300 price. [/quote]\


cant beat it at that point


billy
 
Is that Custom line input transformer a replica of the 0-12 utc or is it something else . I have a quite a few 0-12's and wouldnt mind attemting a purple kit .
 
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