3D "AIR" EQ - "Night EQ" PCB's Complete!

Hello Peter,

Yeah!!! as I suspect... before the R25, after the first opamp's output cap! I'll try not to put at the output, because I'm sure the signal will easily overload when I start to boost the frequencies! so, I'll miss what's really coming thought the EQ's Input!
Thanks a lot for the help!!!

Cheers,

Eddie  ;D

I brought my eq3d into the studio to test her out and brought her right home.  Havin some probs.  Voltages are fine.  In bypass and un bypassed I get a lot of distortion as well as a very low level.  Still happens without the pots connected.  I can also hear the frequency changes when not bypassed and turning the pots.  Two things might be affected but I thought they wouldnt hurt. 

1 I used the air switch in reverse but all of the connections are still relevant to each of the poles.  A went to B and A2-6 went to Bs 2-6 on the board...  B went to A and Bs 2-6 went to As 2-6 on the board. 

Also I connected the solder tabs on my 500k pots together instead of sending all 3 tabs to the board.  in other words two of the pots tabs are connected together with 2 interconnects going to the board.  Anyone having this problem as well?

It doesnt seem like the two things above would affect anything, the prob still occurs bypassed.

W DeMarco said:

I brought my eq3d into the studio to test her out and brought her right home.  Havin some probs.  Voltages are fine.  In bypass and un bypassed I get a lot of distortion as well as a very low level.  Still happens without the pots connected.  I can also hear the frequency changes when not bypassed and turning the pots.  Two things might be affected but I thought they wouldnt hurt. 

1 I used the air switch in reverse but all of the connections are still relevant to each of the poles.  A went to B and A2-6 went to Bs 2-6 on the board...  B went to A and Bs 2-6 went to As 2-6 on the board. 

Also I connected the solder tabs on my 500k pots together instead of sending all 3 tabs to the board.  in other words two of the pots tabs are connected together with 2 interconnects going to the board.  Anyone having this problem as well?

It doesnt seem like the two things above would affect anything, the prob still occurs bypassed.

Click to expand...

I'm willing to BET you don't have the "JUMPERS" installed correctly for Bal or Un-Bal (+4 or -10) operation.

Right on, I thought this might be the prob.  Figured it was safer to ask those who were successful with their builds tho!

Hi Kevin, did you ever, or do you plan to, make some form of air-only PCB available?

sO i MADE THE JUMPER changes and it worked out well.  I think the left channel is a bit quieter than the rght.  Im wondering if there is a resistor or two I can match better?

Hi guys!

I'm starting to think about putting together one of these night eq's, after reading this enitre thread..looks like a great project!

I'm trying to understand the circuit , and would like to know how crucial is it to adhere to the very specific resistor values..

On the nice BOM , many resistors are given ALT values , which I'll probably go for as I have most of those "alt"'s in stock... but can anyone explain what will be the result of using alternate values?

Also, I see there are some resistances which are not given alt values... ie 5k11 . Does this mean that these values have to be strictly adhered to , if no alt is given. Would 5K1 not suffice?

I wouldn't normally fret to much about this kind of thing , but this eq circuit is very different to other projects I've done .

Another question..I see a lot of "times 10" going on...  I assume that if you were to select 2k in place of 2k05 , then you should also select 20k in place of 20k5 ...... would this make sense?

I'm imagining that all the alt values probably just shift the centre frequencies a little , but that's just me guessing!

Cheers in advance!

nEon.

Neon

I have used the less precise values like 20k & 5k1 with no problems at all.

Peter

Ok , glad to hear that , Peter !

Many thanks

nEon.

Manual if anyone is interested

http://cgi.ebay.com/NIGHTPRO-EQ-3D-DIMENSIONAL-EQUALIZER-user-MANUAL-rare_W0QQitemZ160315545926QQihZ006QQcategoryZ23788QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Mouser is completely out of stock on the Lorlin switches (Part #10WA165) and won't have any more in stock for roughly 12 weeks......can anyone recommend a suitable replacement that i could order from Digikey?........also having a hard time finding the Digikey part # for the larger Molex 3pin 'power' connectors as well as a part # for the appropriate heat sink...i need to go through Digikey as they actually deliver the next day here in Montreal and don't nail me with outrageous brokerage fees....
.......yup......my very first build.....guess it shows......any help greatly appreciated.......super excited to get this eq up and running.......such an amazing project!

You can find the same jazz from E-Switch. 
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=EG1954-ND

Nice Find Miko !

GARY

MikoKensington said:

You can find the same jazz from E-Switch. 
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=EG1954-ND

Click to expand...

thanks!

I'm trying to reach Peter but he's not replying, does anybody has spare PCBs for this project?

or maybe a Night EQ PCB layout for etching?

Peter sometimes has trouble with his email.  My work email couldn't get through to his.  But my gmail account worked fine.  If you have another account, try it.  He's also a busy fella. 

Hi guys!

Just a quick question about how is the best way,sonically, to implement the bypass switch.

I see the pcb accommodates an alps pcb mount push switch. nice and direct .

However,on purushas front panel , the two toggle switches are centred on the panel...much nicer and convenient for in out stereo a/bing . But presumably ,this means that length of the wiring to the pcbs is different for each channel .

i.e the wiring to the left board will be very short , whereas it will be a full boards length to the same spot on the Right channel.

just wondering if anyone has investigated this.  In practice, is the difference negligible?

I'd like to go for the centred toggle idea , but sonic integrity is king , and I'll happily go for the pcb pushbuttons if it is ultimately cleaner. I'd be hand matching every component , to match the stereo as best I can ,within my control , so I guess the bypass lead length becomes an issue..

Sorry if it sounds pedantic...it's not meant to !

cheers!

nEon.

Hi again!


In addition to the above question , it occurs to me now that those folks using purusha's case have the pcbs mounted on the base , with all pots on flying leads ,anyway...so the issue of bypass switch wiring is probably academic.

However , this leads to another question re mounting the night eq...

Has anyone out there done a version where the pots are soldered onto the pcb , and the whole thing is panel mounted , so that the entire card is hanging from the pots , in the same way that the calrec eq is mounted.

I ask because I don't know yet how heavy the populated pcbs are gonna be , and whether or not the strength of the pot connections will be able to cope over the long term ,  without the board sagging.  In the case of the calrec , the dual ganged pots give a certain strength to the arrangement,helping support the boards , and spread the load,as it were...  but the night eq is onlysingle gang pots...not so rigid,maybe?

Any stories anyone , or pics of night eq's ?

cheers

nEon

I've read this topic for a long time very interesting but anyway....Anybody have an original manual in pdf file?