[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

SaMpLeGoD said:

My PCB has no alternative footprints for that transistors, only for the 2N3037... sorry for asking that, I'll swap Q5 to Q13 with 2N5088.

Click to expand...

Every version of the Rev D boards I made has alternate base pads to accommodate the 2N5088 for Q7 to Q10.

Why do you want to swap ALL the 2N3707s?

Well now i'm confused... for Q5 to Q13 is supposed to use 2N3707, right? If I'll use 2N5088's I need to change all of them, right? ormay I leave Q5, Q12 and Q13 with 2N3707?
My basic question is need I to change all of the 2N3707 with 2N5088, or only the Q7 to Q10???

Sorry boring you mako...

Eddie  :-\

SaMpLeGoD said:

Well now i'm confused... for Q5 to Q13 is supposed to use 2N3707, right? If I'll use 2N5088's I need to change all of them, right? ormay I leave Q5, Q12 and Q13 with 2N3707?
My basic question is need I to change all of the 2N3707 with 2N5088, or only the Q7 to Q10???

Sorry boring you mako...

Click to expand...

You're not boring me as much as frustrating me. While English might not be your first language you are obviously fluent enough to understand what I've already written on my Rev D page and work out the rest by yourself...

I Used a 220 ohm 5 watt resistor on mine from the secondary to power the Sifam meter lamp. I have a 30/30 transformer. You can just use ohms law to find the exact value. No resistor burnouts or any other problems with my unit over extended long term use. Ya prolly don't need 5 watter tho. But I like overkill.

Can't wait to build my second one! I could really use it. Just trying to get the cash for the case and some small parts I am missing...

mnats said:

What is the ratio of the Cinemag?

Click to expand...

Ahhhh, hmmmm maybe I will attempt to reverse the cinemag and see what happens.  I don't recall what I did, but I looked at some pics of finished ones and tried to copy that.  Let me look into it.

Thanks!
Sig

Hey all just a quick question. I tried searching and reading the thread again. But after reading Mnats site I wanted to know the correct values for these 3 resistors and if they are the same for version 1 and 2:

R15 6.8k?
R64 2.2k?
R12 920?

I just want to be sure cause after reading my notes from my first original board I may have used different values. Almost for sure on R12 I think I used 1.8k. I didn't open my old one yet to check. But I have the exact same parts and brands etc. to build my second one to keep them as close as possible. The original sounds unreal but just wanna keep them as close as possible for drum buss use as a pair etc. I'm also going to calibrate them both with the same input signal simultaneously etc. to match them. Been dieing to have 2 since I built the first one. It's my Christmas present to me! lol. I got my Girlfriend a video game for Christmas to keep her busy while I tinker around...

Also I was thinking about making the stereo link box. Anyone ever make one? But truthfully I typically don't use buss linking all the time on compressors... But would be a good thing to have. I saw the connections where the cable should output to the second compressor.

And everyone here have a great Holiday!

Thanks,
John

Well I think I answered my questions already that these are the correct values. I just gotta open up my other one when I go to calibrate them to double check. Sorry been a while since I made my first compressor hehe. Maybe I just got a bit paranoid.

Samplegod I used all 3708 transistors instead of 3707's all passed hfe except maybe 1 out of 50... This was mentioned earlier in the thread. If I remember correctly mine compressed even without R44 in the circuit. I use 50 VA 30/30's to power this project. Only $20 bucks at Avel Lindberg. (If you buy 2) I think I could power a Christmas tree with the extra juice from the secondaries...

Hey Stagefright... mine is compressing zilch...
I changed the transistors for 5088's , but nothing happens so far... when I stuck the jumper for R44, the meter falls down from the "0"... I think I wired all correctly, the meter and ratio boards from hailball, follow the instructions, take the original schematic to wire the output trafo... don't know, I'm still searching...
It's the 4th 1176 i build, all the 3 before are running... this is my first REV D, so far, not working
My voltages are around 28,2 for the 30V rail and -8,6 for the -10V rail, could this cause any bad behaviour? are they sufficient? I'm using 25-0-25 from Talema... it's supposed to work... well, let me see

Cheers,

Eddie  :-\

My power transformer is overkill. Yours should be ok. I'll check some voltages on mine in a sec... I have number 2 on the bench.

When you install R44 your meter will change! Then you have to follow the adjustment procedure. I will check my rail voltages and report back in a bit...

Can you take a few close up pictures of the board and wiring and post them?

I know this has helped a few people in the past.

I would also be sure to check your trimmers and also check your transistor data sheets against the schematic.

Mike

I'm finishing up my REV D unit & have a question:

The parts list calls for a standard POT for the "ATTACK" ... without an ON-OFF Switch.

OK, How can you follow the "Calibration" Procedure without the Attack switch???

Is it not needed on the MNATs Version? Or, should it be added?


Thanks

9.94 neg and 29.84 positive. I don't think that is your problem tho. Did you check every resistor with a dmm before installing? Also pull the board and check carefully with a magnifying glass for solder bridges. Altho this board is very high quality it is still possible. And triple check wiring from the board to the switches etc. Soldering the board is easy but takes quite a while to wire up the whole project. Especially the switches. Do you have the bypass switch correctly wired? Do you have it on the pot or the switch bank? Also did you use rotaries or the push buttons?

Just a few things I could think of...

I used the off switch on the second push button bank as compression off on mine. Just take the wires there and use that as the switch. I have a combo eic jack/fuse/power switch on the back. Also Mnats video discusses this I believe on his site for calibration.

The attack switch is the compression off and is definitely needed and desirable
But if you don't have one I believe Mnat's video shows where to jump it.

Hey,

Yes it's addressed in calibration video 1:
http://www.geocities.com/m_natsume/1176_revision_d

You can just short pad 22 to ground.

Mike

Hey thanks guys!

I may have to revisit ALL of my 1176's because of this. :'(

Is the GR Disable button on the PURPLE units the same as thing? I don't have a switch on that units Attack either.

The Purple has a true relay bypass. The real 1176 just turns off compression. Still burning fet's Also a useful color at times.
The schematic is offline right now... Might have compression off too.

The Purple also has a meter buffer etc. REAL nice machine...

Purple schematic is here: http://www.purpleaudio.com/pdflib/PurpleMC77v34.pdf

Hey Mike my girlfriend wrapped my Hairball Audio box as a Christmas present so have to wait 'till Thursday to get my goodies LOL!

Awe...well hopefully you won't be disappointed! 

I'm building a pair of D's right now.  Waiting on my front panels...should have them done with pictures up in about 2 weeks!

Mike

khstudio said:

Is the GR Disable button on the PURPLE units the same as thing? I don't have a switch on that units Attack either.

Click to expand...

I just looked at the Purple schematic I have & it IS the same as the switch as the original "Attack Off"... so that's cool.
That unit sounds GREAT.  ;D

After seeing were it is on the schematic I have a better grip on how to implement it on the MNAT Rev D.
... still need to check out the video too.