carnitas
Member
luis, FWIW, i burned R32 twice and after i got my wiring figured out everything works fine. The first time I burned R32 i didn't realize what i had done and left the unit on for a minute before i figured it out.
[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY
- Thread starter mnats
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Thanks for the response, but something must been damaged beside R32.
I also replaced all transistors, but no sound, no meter and everything is microphonic: Do you know that technique to check tubes in guitars amps, by tapping them with a pencil? If I tapp anywhere in the case, board, tranformer I can here the sound!
I don´t know what more to do. The psu voltages are fine.
Are the reference voltages for the rev D the same for the others versions? Should I check them?
Thank you
I also replaced all transistors, but no sound, no meter and everything is microphonic: Do you know that technique to check tubes in guitars amps, by tapping them with a pencil? If I tapp anywhere in the case, board, tranformer I can here the sound!
I don´t know what more to do. The psu voltages are fine.
Are the reference voltages for the rev D the same for the others versions? Should I check them?
Thank you
Echo North
Well-known member
I'd go over all the wiring again very carefully.
Mike
Mike
phatmateo
Well-known member
if you can hear a sound when you tap the case, then its probably a grounding issue as well as whatever issue you have that's not passing signal. Use Skylar's wiring diagram and triple check everything
Do a high res photo of different angles of your build and post it up. Maybe someone visually can pick up what's wrong with it. Close up photos of sections like pots wiring, meter wiring, pcb board close up, xformer close up, etc. get good lighting when taking the photos so it comes out clear. Also take a pic of the underneath in all angles.luis said:
Dean Roddey
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I ordered the matrix pins from the BOM. I just got to the point of being ready to put them in and noticed that they are crimp on pins on the male side, not the sort with tails to go through a PCB board. I looked and the picture for the P/N indicated in the BOM would indicate that they are through board tails, but that's not what I got. Anyone else have this problem?
If it's just an error on Mouser's part, I'll just order some more. But I don't want to pay 2 day shipping just to get the same wrong stuff again. But if I don't get them in this week, it'll be yet another week before I get this thing put together.
If it's just an error on Mouser's part, I'll just order some more. But I don't want to pay 2 day shipping just to get the same wrong stuff again. But if I don't get them in this week, it'll be yet another week before I get this thing put together.
If you have the push button PCB boards from Hairball, it uses the little connectors instead which is far better.Dean Roddey said:
The female or male should be crimp for cables and the other PCB board version to be soldered onto the PCB.
Dean Roddey
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I'm doing the rotary version, and both sets of pins are crimp on types in my case.
OIC, Well I got the soldered version on my male matrix for my BOM list, though it does not look like the bottom pic I have attched. It looks like the connector pin versions. I actually prefer the one in the bottom pic for matrix pins.Dean Roddey said:
This is the Mouser part number I got.
pcb mount matrix pins rotary and meter board
538-02-06-8103 – Molex $0.13 US Male Solder tail
wire end female connectors for pins above
538-02-06-1103 Molex $0.09 US Female Crimp terminals
Dean Roddey
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Then it looks like Mouser sent me the wrong ones then. Oh well. Screw it, I'm probably just going to hard wire it. Live fast, die young and all that. It'll probably be more robust in the end anyway.
Dean Roddey
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So, on the power transformer, the two 0s are twisted and go into the center connector and the two +25s go to the outside connectors, right? All the pictures seem to be using a different transformer, so I can't get any hints from them and I can't get anything out of the schematic that would make it obvious to me if my guess is right.
Echo North
Well-known member
http://www.diyfactory.com/data/transformer_connections.gif
Check out the split secondary w/ center tap image here, then look at the color code guide that should be on your transformer or datasheet.
The center tap (0V) to the middle terminal and the 25V to the right and left.
Mike
Check out the split secondary w/ center tap image here, then look at the color code guide that should be on your transformer or datasheet.
The center tap (0V) to the middle terminal and the 25V to the right and left.
Mike
Dean Roddey
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For the ground wire that's on the side wall of the output transformer, should that just be grounded to the screw holding the transformer to the case or just ignored because the grounding is being handled by the star ground at the input XLR already?
And the xformer would seem to have an extra pair of wires (yellow and orange), The are just to be ignored?
Blue and red go off to the XLR, and the other 6 are paired up in sets one from each side of the transformer, as per the wiring diagram.
And the xformer would seem to have an extra pair of wires (yellow and orange), The are just to be ignored?
Blue and red go off to the XLR, and the other 6 are paired up in sets one from each side of the transformer, as per the wiring diagram.
Echo North
Well-known member
Dean Roddey said:
I connected it to the signal chassis ground. I'm not sure if that is the best practice.
Dean Roddey said:
They get connected directly together.
Dean Roddey said:
Yes.
Dean Roddey
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Well, I checked Radio Shack, Fryes, and the bulk electronics supply stores, and no matrix pins. So I'm just going to hard wire it. I'm a loner, a rebel...
Dean Roddey
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Echo North said:
And on the high voltage side, we just pair up one side from each set and connect them arbitrarily to the left and right side IEC socket pins, right? I assume since it's AC there's no polarity to that?
