[BUILD] 1176LN Rev D DIY

EDIT: Problem solved.[size=6pt] Ego slightly bruised.  : I have wired R71 off-board and wired it incorrectly.
Corrected the wiring and it made life good again.  ;D

Hi guys,

My build seems to have a problem; The Q bias calibration went fine, but when doing the discrete meter calibration I can't get the meter to zero and have 0,00 V on R74 at the same time.  When I adjust R71 the meter goes to the right but no further than say -3 dB. After that it just drops down again. (quickly).   Have already replaced Q12 and Q13 and I have changed R71 to a 5K trimmer.  No luck.

The only way I can get the meter to zero is when I have about 0,7 VDC across R74.  Not good.

I'm using 2N5088 and on my DMM Q12 and Q13 read 507 and 509 HFE, so that should be OK, right?

Any clues? Hints? Tips? Tricks?  

Cheers!
G

Anyone has any clue to stereo interconect two Rev D???
I'll apreciate that!
Thankssss

Eddie

I am finding that I want more "room" on the input att., I wind up having it almost all the way down. Has anyone played with changing the post input transformer (pad?) R4/R5 to stomp down the input level a bit? I do not want to pad before the tranny & change the sound.....
BTW, I built the stereo link as per MC77 on some perfboard and it works very nicely

Bump.....
anyone?

Hi Eddie,

I have had success making my dual Rev. D stereo linked by simply connecting Pad 7 on both channels with a switch.  I matched the fets for both channels together.  If your fets are matched between both channels, you should be in business. 

I just ran through some tests and both channels compress together very well when they are linked.  Even with different levels of input and different gain settings on my 1176's, I'm seeing both channels compress the same amount when one side is triggered. 

Hi Niels,

I haven't had too much issue with sending in too hot of a signal.  If I'm sending full program material, I'll usually lower the ProTools output a bit if I need. 

-Tony

Ditto! But most people will tell ya that the link is too loose for a stereo match. That is false! Makes an awesome drum buss. Used by tons of famous engineers. And Also used on the 2 buss. For bigtime albums. Same as la2a. Too dirty? Try it.

What sounds good IS GOOD.

John

I would like to try getting a slower attack time, would increasing C27 add more time? It seems like it would still be just as fast with the cap/resistor dialed all the way out, but could go slower....

I have finished building the 1176LN D ver 2 and am looking for calibration information.  The two videos are great and there are still more things to adjust. The manual I have talks about pots that are not in  my circuit.
Does anyone know where I can get complete info on calibration.
Thanks Nathaniel

Echo North said:

That is the voltage dropping resistor for the VU lamp.

The secondary is wired with a center tap (0V).  The voltage between either side of the secondary and the center tap is 25V.  So set your DMM to AC and put your + on either the right or left terminal, then your - on the center terminal and you should get roughly 25V.

Your lamp likes 11V and it doesn't care if it's AC or DC.  Here's where Ohm's Law (V = IR) drops by to help us.

We need to drop the voltage by 14V.  I know my VU is drawing about 0.063A.

R=14/0.063A
R= 222R

There is really no need to guess.

Edit:

Also, if P=V*A, then in this case we've got about 1W of power.  A 2W resistor should do.

Mike

Click to expand...

Hi guys. Just a heads up on the VU lamp powering. I tried a 222R with Mike's meter and although it was way too bright, it worked... for a couple of hours but the lamp fried. I put a second 222R in series and it's now more like it should be. Not too bright, not too dark, just right for the studio vibe!

hi everyone!
i'm a noob and i could use some help.

1) i see many of you have 2 big resistors soldered to a pin of the meter, are these 8.2k 1W resistors?

2) some of you have a very big resistor on the toroid connections. do i need it?
  (or your just using a bigger voltage toroid?)

3) this is stupid, but it's very important to me.
    i need mouser codes for 3 pin thing and the clap thing that connect 2 of them, the thing you should remove for fine tuning the circuit.
    i don't know their names, and i'm not so clever in orders
 
thanks everyone

The resistors for the meters are 220R/2W.  You put it in series with ONE of the transformer secondaries and that goes to one of the meter pins, and the other meter pin connects to ground.  
Since the power for the meter is coming directly from the power transformer, you can put the resistor near the meter or near the pcb (where the transformer secondary is connected - this might be what you're seeing).  I haven't heard of anyone using resistors to drop down the voltage of their power transformers.  Seems silly to buy a more powerful trafo than you need because it'll cost you more.

thanks, i think i should read the whole tread next time
i'm sorry

Stagefright13 said:

Ditto! But most people will tell ya that the link is too loose for a stereo match. That is false! Makes an awesome drum buss. Used by tons of famous engineers. And Also used on the 2 buss. For bigtime albums. Same as la2a. Too dirty? Try it.

What sounds good IS GOOD.

John

Click to expand...

I love 1176's on the buss! Who said it's dirty?

hello guys
I need help, I can not find R12-920 I can use a resistor 930 without problems?
Thanks

ilfungo said:

hello guys
I need help, I can not find R12-920 I can use a resistor 930 without problems?
Thanks

Click to expand...

Definitely.

pietro_moog said:

thanks, i think i should read the whole tread next time
i'm sorry

Click to expand...

I have an excell BOM list with web links to part numbers that I made for my Rev D build that you might find useful. Message me with your email address if you would like a copy.

I have built it so that you can print it out and use it to mark your progress as you build the unit or order parts. You can also modify it to suit your needs.

thanks Echo North

hello canidoit
[email protected]
thanks

ilfungo said:

thanks Echo North

hello canidoit
[email protected]
thanks

Click to expand...

O.K. sent it 

I have also included some other things you may find useful.

Good luck with the build!

thanks canidoit, this is very kind
that's my email
[email protected]

ilfungo said:

thanks Echo North

hello canidoit
[email protected]
thanks

Click to expand...

Antonio, the list you have does not have the attack pot with the switch built in.

Download this version of the part list if you want the attack pot with the SPDT switch. Please check with other information you have to make sure the list meets your requirements. Download and use the information at your own risk!

Exel BOM List