How to release a power cable (pictures included)

I have an ADA 128i delay and it appears that the power cable is cut inside the plastic piece that holds it in place where it goes out of the back of the rack case. when I move the cable in the back with nothing else moving the delay powers on and off. So how do I release the power cable from that plastic clamping piece? I tried using a screwdriver to pry it out, and I tried pulling on the cable, but nothing I do works. It won't budge. Does anyone know how I can release it?

Sorry for the bad pics.

Thanks

I use vise grips although that can marr the plastic. Compress the strain relief with the vise grips, let it sit for a moment, then wiggle it out. You can also smack the vise grips with a rubber mallet when putting it back in. There is also a tool made for this.

Hmmmm thats looks exactly like the grommit on my amp.. If it is a tough fit a lil force will not really harm it as it sould like you wish to replace it. the grommit is in 2 sections. One is the body which is about 3/4's around the other is what you could call the locking mechnism that locks the grommit around the power cable. That makes it a complete circle well almost a circle. Combine that with a hole barely enough to fit it in and a thick power cable, it will give you get a super tight fit. Unfortunately to get the grommit off it has to be out of the chassis mount hole. try grabbing the edge and pushing down. There should be a sestion that moves a li. once you find that push down hard and pull back. A lil force and it should pop out. Unless something stupid was done like glue it in.
See pic below for a better idea.

That's called a strain relief and it's installed and removed with a special pair of pliers which is, fortunately, not expensive.

Pliers, squeeze the top of it down into the bottom so it crimps down onto the cable. You will see very quickly how they work when you do that. I find channel locks to work the best.

That's called a strain relief and it's installed and removed with a special pair of pliers which is, fortunately, not expensive.

Everytime I take one out I wonder if their is a tool for doing it, but then I forget about it. But I have gotten good with the channel locks anyways.

Regular pliers will do it, if absolutely necessary, but the strain relief tool is quite a bit easier to use and also much less likely to damage the panel, the cord or the strain relief. Every shop should have a pair, anyway.



Hmmm... MCM Electronics used to sell a pair that were much cheaper than the Heyco pliers but still worked well. I can't find them now, though.

EDIT: Aha! Here we go:

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/3913

These are not my favourite cable clamps - as they are a frequent cause of intermittent failure or loss of power.

When you take one apart - you will find that the cable is forced into a 'U' shape - any movement of the cable then stresses the cable at that point - which eventually fractures.

If there is room on the rear panel - I would take this opportunity to fit an IEC inlet connector - so you can then use a detachable standard cable. You must live in a land with a 'safe' mains supply - as there is no protective earth conductor present....... But is there really such a thing as non lethal mains?

Certainly not in the UK and Europe!

Thanks guys, I'm going to replace it with an IEC connector, so I just ripped it out and broke it. I was too lame brained to get the dang thing to release. Thanks for all of the input!

Jay

Yeah, I just rip those out with a pair of needle nose. Those things suck (the pressure clips, not the needle nose).

See, I like a hardwired power cord with a strain relief. That's how I build my stuff. The power cord won't fall out in the middle of a gig :grin:

[quote author="NewYorkDave"]See, I like a hardwired power cord with a strain relief. That's how I build my stuff. The power cord won't fall out in the middle of a gig :grin:[/quote]

Hallelujah!

Speaking of Circuit Specialists, I just got their new little catalog today. They have cheap chassis! They look to me just like par-metals and $50 for a 1U. Anyone use them?