3mm Front panels and LEDs

I just got through 2 boxes where setting up the Bezels and holes for LEDs was a PITA. On the think 3.28 mm panel I manally drilled a larger "counter-hole" so that the bezel lip would fit. The smal plastic bezels seem to be for less than 1-2 mm panels.

Bezel:
http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=351-0001-RC

There are other bezels here:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/127.pdf

I am using T1 LEDs and the other bezels for T 1-3/4 may be fit better.

Right now the best option I thinkis just making 3mm holes. But the last thing I need is a shorting LED.

-it's always the mechanical sh-t that's a PITA

[quote author="guavatone"]Right now the best option I thinkis just making 3mm holes. But the last thing I need is a shorting LED.[/quote]
Those plastic thingies... I don't recall ever getting one to work satisfactorily. And I like the look of a straight LED in metal better as well.

To prevent shorting I use a large drill from the backside to make room for the connections. And I shrinkwrap the LEDs+soldered connecting leads.

-it's always the mechanical sh-t that's a PITA

Click to expand...

Damn straight.

I've got a bunch of projects I keep putting off because I dread doing the metalwork and can't afford to pay someone else to do it for me.

Yeah, and soldering accidents might give you a burn or two, but metal working accidents can cost you fingers or worse if you aren't careful.

On th LED mounting question...I use 3mm LEDs and drill 1/8" holes for them. Then, as Mr. Rubber says, heat shrink over each lead and then the pair. To hold the LED in place I use a dab of GE Silicone II on the back of the panel. You have to be able to get the LED to stay in the right place for several hours while it sets up. Don't use other Silicone or RTV products as they have acetic acid in the formulation and that will attack some parts. GE Silicone II has no acetic acid. You can get a small tube at the HW store.

A P

[quote author="AnalogPackrat"] Then, as Mr. Rubber says, heat shrink over each lead and then the pair. To hold the LED in place I use a dab of GE Silicone II on the back of the panel. You have to be able to get the LED to stay in the right place for several hours while it sets up.
[/quote]

I've been using a hot glue gun for this - works great.

i seem to keep getting holes that need nothing, fits 3mm just right... a squeeze fit that wont move. only worry is here and there its so tight that it wont totally go in, and i have to try a different led, as if i push too hard they smash to bits.

Thanks for sharing in my loathing of metal work.

Cool AP, I just used some Sillicon 2 for some acoustic traps. It's the disgusting brown color though. (I'll use that on my audix eq's)

I'm doing my first FPE order and don't want to redrill. Thanks for the Tips everyone.



For some reason I was able to be precise enough to bore out 16 holes on the cams of a 550 CC engine to helicoil each cam bolt. But with my FP's I always notice some little thing that's off. I try not to think about the cams when riding though, but on my FP it's another story.