Fender Pro reverb needs some recapping .

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

andre tchmil

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2004
Messages
1,654
Location
land of chicon
I have an original Fender pro reverb ( no reissue) that needs some new caps in it.
Guess what:Years ago, some of them were leaking , I desoldered them. locked the amp in the storage, forgot to take note about the old cap values, and now I want to start using the amp again. :oops:

What types and values are in there.
i'm talking about the big ones hided behind that metal box on the chassis.

thanks
 
20 at 450 for the preamps, maybe the 70/350 twicw like the T Reveerb?
Checking....

Sprague Atoms from www.tubesandnmore.com will fix that amp.

OK, 70/350 twice, (good luck, weird value, ask Hoffman, Angela, Weber, Magic Music, Fender)

20 at 525, which will be a bitch also, so just use 20 at 450 or 500, maybe 600 if the can fits, which it should as lytic size/uf has gone down quite a bit over the years...
The preamp B+ is no where near 525, more like 380, but the screen voltage is 428, so you will be right on the edge for the first 20 uf cap.
Thats why he stocked thge 525, so he did not have to carry three different value lytics, less inventory.

Thjats for the AA165 Chassis (look at your tube chart in the back for the chassis #)

The AA1069 is the same.
 
Also consider the F&Ts at AES. They are physically smaller than the Spragues and cost a bit less. I used them in my '77 Deluxe Reverb and they sound great. And if the amp has never been recapped, do yourself a sonic favor and replace all the electrolytics in the preamp and bias sections as well. You won't regret it.

BTW, approximately what vintage is the amp? Blackface or Silver?

A P

<edit> Oh, and google "Fender amp field guide" and enjoy the schematics...
 
thanks for the help.
Will check.
So I can't go wrong if I replace them all with 500 V ?

The amp was original a silver face , but some dumbass stripped the thing, including the case and front. :shock:
 
I'm quite nostalgic and proud about this amp.
Bought it at the age of 12 in a local bar. The owner's son wanted to buy a Chopper bike and needed the funds. Paid around 200 euro at that time , including a deluxe Telecaster.
It was a journey on it's own for me to enter the bar alone at that age . :green:
Anyway, on the way home I took the amp on the back of my bike and the guitar in one hand, steering with the other, lost control and smacked pretty hard on the concrete road. Amp and guitar were just fine, me however needed some stitches. I will never forget.
:roll:


Too bad my 10 year old son now play the drums.[/i]
 
500v will work, but notice the first two stacked like a totem-pole parallel to two 220k 1w resistors. Originally two 70u-350v, (70u-700v in that configuration), you can use two 100u-350v. Double check the grounds!
 
[quote author="CJ"]
20 at 525, which will be a bitch also, so just use 20 at 450 or 500, maybe 600 if the can fits, which it should as lytic size/uf has gone down quite a
[/quote]

If you're refering to TVA1966 (20/600), don't think it will fit at nearly 4 inches long. Tried this several years back with a AA864 Bassman, no dice. Need to use the 20/500 TVA1906

Walter hit it with the 100/350s to replace those 70uFs... Better than 80/450s...

Freakin' Vishay upped the price sometime last year on those pups. $8 a cap from Mouser? Get 'um from Antique and save at least a greenback per!
 
If it's a silver face, then look for the white caps with blue lettering. Those are the electrolytics. Watch the polarity on the bias supply cap--it's backwards from what you'd expect because the bias is a negative voltage. You might also think about using a larger cap there (say 100uF) and with a 100V rating. If yours are as dried out as mine were, you will be very happy with the tone after recapping.

Happy soldering,
A P
 
That's a great story! You can't ever sell that one!

BTW if you ever need Fender schematics Ampwares.com has the whole shebang (click the upper left corner - Fender amp field guide).
 
i would try and find the 70 70 thing.
you are literally playing a band pass with the output xfmr and those first caps.
you might disrupt the original impulse/phase response, and the inductance from two caps in series is additive, so you have twice the inductance as a regular cap, thereby forming a hash filter.

the best twin i ever played was at GC San Jose.
silver face, stock, used, it was, of course, gone the very next day.

having a nice quad of RCA's really is the game with those amps.


:twisted:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top