My 1176 :-) Photo's etc 56k warning !!!

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MartyMart

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Messages
2,340
Location
Berlin for a while
Mnats board based on Graff's layout in one of Tat's fine cases.
Used decent quality parts and didn't stray too much from exact values etc.
OEP input and Lundahl output.
Still needs a "proper" calibration, works well and is quiet as a mouse.
Just runs a little "hot" - perhaps this is normal ? ( reg is heat sinked )
Initial tests sound wonderful , so BIG thanks to all who made this project
posible.
Fab HUGE knobs are from RS components, about £15 for that lot !!!

Pics, some good some a bit grainy :

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Wire -up was a bit "fiddly" and bored the pants off me !
Enjoy,
Marty.
 
I know that this is a "well abused" project and for most it's "PCB" and a bit
of a "paint by numbers" job, but I find it pretty bloody amazing that I can
turn my hand to one of these and get it working right off the bat.
I'm very proud to have got one "up and running" and it will get good use in a
busy studio/programming suite.
It isn't "26 of 'em in a 1/2 U box" but I'll get there .... :wink:

I'm also very thankful to the likes of Mnats and Gyraf for making it into a
project that's "do-able" for people like myself, with a little electronics experience and a steady hand.

Just wanted to add that .

MM.
 
on the other thread you mentioned 6 positions for the ratio switch. it should have a little keyed washer that provides an adjustable stop so that it can be set to 2P4T.
edit:I'm 1/2 way to the mark of the beast :twisted:
 
[quote author="shabtek"]on the other thread you mentioned 6 positions for the ratio switch. it should have a little keyed washer that provides an adjustable stop so that it can be set to 2P4T.
edit:I'm 1/2 way to the mark of the beast :twisted:[/quote]

You're half way through one ? very cool.
I don't think the standard mnats boards have the "all" setting by default, so
I think you're right about the switch, but something "funky" happens in position
"5" - if you like, it gets quite full on and once settled sounds great ! ( by accident )
Position "6" sounds like all limiting "off" and a vol boost so could be useful ??

I don't fancy removing the switch right now, it was a bitch to get it tight against
the case without my wrench slipping and scratching the paint work !
I just need to sort out the calibration, but at the 'mo it's sounding real nice.
MM.
 
Nah... I think he means that he's at 333 posts... half way to... welll.... you can figure it out! :twisted:

Nice work Marty, but I can see that you don't take much joy in the wiring up... -It's that sort of detail which I tend to take as a badge of honour...

Practice is all it seems to take, but first-time working is indeed an excellent echievement!

Top drawer, mate!

Keith
 
Thanks chaps :grin:

I did try to get the wire-up "neat" but there were so many pieces of quite
stiff shielded cable, that it ended up a bit of a rats nest !
( that belden 2 core + shield is a bugger to bend ! )

Next one, I'll use slightly longer lengths and tie it down in straighter sections.
I'd also like to use more molex/screw terminals, though they are not as
permanent as soldered connections.

It was enough for my "tiny" muso brain just to get all the connections correct
in the first place !!

Yes, practice makes perfect .
MM.
 
now im panicing, i've got to get two into the same case, i am hoping mine ends up half as neat as yours sir.
 
[quote author="lofi"]now im panicing, i've got to get two into the same case, i am hoping mine ends up half as neat as yours sir.[/quote]

Having just done this, my advice would be to think it through and get some
more flexible screened cable. ( I only had 2 core and you need a few single
core + shield which is thiner )
Also use a "materiel" based tape measure for the cable runs inside the case
- like a dress makers tape - mnats idea of putting pins on the back of the
two small boards ( ratio & meter ) would make connections easier as getting
them onto the "front" side of the PCB up against the case is a PITA !
In general, longer runs around the case "sides" would look better but does
that introduce any "noise" ??
Just keep the toroid away from I/O and as much cable as possible, mine is
about 10cm away from all that, with 2 x boards it will get a bit tight !

Best of luck :)
MM.
 
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