the Poor Man 660 support thread

;D ;D Wow, fixed that tiny error and now my unit works perfectly.
I'm gonna improve the wiring a bit tomorrow and then it's time for some pics.

Thanks to analag, Volker and all that have been involved and of course Lars for that final hint. 

Gonna spend the rest of the evening compressing every possible sound signal available...

i did the same error :-*

great Benny - show us some pics ;D ;D ;D

I'm trying to order all those heat sinks from Conrad, but it appears they don't have a listing for Canada...or even USA???

How do I get them?  Did anyone buy extras that I can get?  I need enough for a PM670 with PSU.

Thanks!
Sig

Just noticed this from the Conrad site:

Attention: USA / Canada!
No delivery possible to USA, canada an the current embargo countries.

What's the deal here?  I'm confused why a German company would refuse to ship to either Canada or the US...

Still looking for these heat sinks then over here.  Any help much appreciated.

Thanks!
Sig

Hi Sig,

not a big problem, those heatsinks are standard, nothing special.
available from Mouser and / or DigiKey for sure.

I bet someone who ordered them in the US will help you out with the part numbers.

Cool.  Can anyone in the US tell me Mouser part #'s?  I've tried searching Mouser for the #'s on the Conrad site, but to no avail...sooooo many options.

Thanks!!
Sig

[silent:arts] said:

WIRING GUIDE

working on this at the moment, feel free to report possible mistakes.
it is not completed right now, but the more complicated connections are in.

http://groupdiy.silentarts.net/pm660/PoorMan-WiringGuide.pdf

Click to expand...

I am wondering if there are any further developments with the wiring guide yet?

I am a little stuck with the Attack switch at to where the wires go to my rotory switch (6 steps)

Also the bridge rectifier. I see we have one casualty already and i'm not really into guessing myself.



And again thanks for the efforts from everyone involved.

Siegfried Meier said:

Cool.  Can anyone in the US tell me Mouser part #'s?  I've tried searching Mouser for the #'s on the Conrad site, but to no avail...sooooo many options.

Thanks!!
Sig

Click to expand...

Look for Canikin's post  in the first half of the thread that shows all the mouser part numbers.

About the heatsinks, this is what I use :
SK104-38.1 have an equivalent : AAVID THERMALLOY 6099BG
Farnell code : 1213464

Maybe it helps...

[quote author=rrs]I am wondering if there are any further developments with the wiring guide yet?
I am a little stuck with the Attack switch at to where the wires go to my rotory switch (6 steps)
Also the bridge rectifier. I see we have one casualty already and i'm not really into guessing myself.[/quote]
haven't heard of any casualty yet, as far as I know all builders are still alive.

but for "building by numbers" I finished the wiring guide today.
feel free to report any mistakes.
finished wiring guide

thanks Volker, that wiring guide is much better

first I have to order the resistors for the switches, wiring comes next.

I see Cannikin's post, but he mentions only 1 part number for Mouser - there are 3 different heat sinks that are needed for this unit...and I can't find a post that anyone actually confirmed these work.  Can I get a confirmation from someone in the US that has ordered all 3 heat sinks from Mouser?

Thanks!
Sig

there at Mouser
567-647-15ABP
567-637-10ABP

only 2 sizes needed as far as I know

Ive been searching for an alternative switch other than the elma rotary.  I can't find these uraltone switches anywhere on the net.  I keep finding a guitar amp called uraltone and the site for it.  Can someone throw up a link for me on these switches?

Thanks I'll check those out - the original BOM had 3 part numbers for heat sinks, but it appears that 2 of them are very similar...

Sig

URALTONE SWITCHES FOR ALL:
http://www.uraltone.com/kauppa/index.php?cPath=15_53

6T9R

Thanks 69r

I guess I can remove two of the decks from the 4 deck to have a 2 deck?

I'M not shure ....i'm waiting the delivery about ,
but i think that can be possible,
anyway you can use only "reel" 1 and 2 , and let the 3 and 4 unused!

6tnr

W DeMarco said:

Thanks 69r

I guess I can remove two of the decks from the 4 deck to have a 2 deck?

Click to expand...

I bought some 4 desks and some 2 desks... I didn't try but I think it's possible to remove some desks. But keeping 4 desks is maybe a good solution to save some place between the switches... When they're fed, the overall diameter is about 45mm. If you solder one switch deck1+2 and another deck3+4 you maybe manage to get closer knobs... Just an idea ;D
Anyway they are about the same price 2 or 4 desks, so...

The 4 desks are made to get 2 pots with only 2 resistors on each position (less noise they say... :)