the Poor Man 660 support thread

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bernbrue said:
Hey, that´s a nice one. I like the white touch very much. Haven´t I seen this frontpanel layout before?? !! ;)  ;D ;D
regards
Bernd
Click to expand...

No.. i think you must have had a really good dream about that frontpanel.  ::)
I printed a PDF file from your design in frontpaneldesigner and used that as a base for the lasertran prints.
I used 2x a4 prints, there is a small line where the 2 sheets meet but not like really noticable, certainly not disturbing and almost gone with the lacquer.
 
skal1 said:
... have you got a spare psu for a poor man  just burnt a big hole in  board and carpet  :mad:.
Click to expand...
ouch  :'(
how did you manage that?

unfortunately I don't have anything left right now.
I will do some more, but this will take some weeks.
 
giltmastering said:
dagoose said:
here it is! another living poorman!  ;D



Some minor issues, i can't get the heater voltages higher then about 5,9 volt,
Click to expand...

Looks like you still have C23 & C24 on the PSU board......  does this matter?
Click to expand...
Yep, they are still on but it doesn't matter because the heater part of the board is not doing anything, it's simpy not connected at all.

I did some other measuring this morning; when all tubes are in i have about 8.8v right after the rectifier (so input of the board) and after about an hour i still have 5,9v at the outputs of both boards. It's not reall hard to to get 6.3v then at the other output where no tubes are in. So it looks like the regulator can't handle the power consumption of the tubes in some kind of way and so the voltages drop.
 
dagoose said:
giltmastering said:
dagoose said:
here it is! another living poorman!  ;D



Some minor issues, i can't get the heater voltages higher then about 5,9 volt,
Click to expand...

Looks like you still have C23 & C24 on the PSU board......  does this matter?
Click to expand...
Yep, they are still on but it doesn't matter because the heater part of the board is not doing anything, it's simpy not connected at all.

I did some other measuring this morning; when all tubes are in i have about 8.8v right after the rectifier (so input of the board) and after about an hour i still have 5,9v at the outputs of both boards. It's not reall hard to to get 6.3v then at the other output where no tubes are in. So it looks like the regulator can't handle the power consumption of the tubes in some kind of way and so the voltages drop.
Click to expand...
If you've got a scope, do a test with it... You may understand better what hapens.
 
analag said:
Sorry guys, I try to keep up with the thread but work has been demanding.
Remember IRF820 for mono and IRF840 for stereo.

analag
Click to expand...

Finally getting my STEREO unit together & found this post...

Do I need to change my Q4 from IRF820 to IRF840 ?

( I already have an IRF840 at Q5 )

Thanks
 
Thanks man  ;D

I could use a little advise: I have
2x 24 position switches
2x 12 position switches

Were do you think the 24 position switches would work best?
Input or Threshold?

I was thinking Input - but thought I'd ask beforehand.

Also,
I plan on dB steps for the input but want to ask you guys that have built units - which do you feel is better for the the Threshold?
Log or Lin taper?

I'm sure there's a "sweet spot"
 
Kingston said:
read what I wrote just two pages back, then the rest of the thread.
Click to expand...

I've been doing nothing but READING... but there's a shit load of info to sift thru.
I'm not a newbie here bro.  ;)

I'll look back a few pages.
thanks.
 
Kingston said:
Apparently a log (pot or rotary switch series) will work best with the "threshold/compress" switch as well. Someone in this thread tested it and with linear it apparently only "digs" at the audio (with modern levels) at about half or one quadrant of the pot/rotary. With log you get more even spread.
Click to expand...

Great info... sorry I missed it.
 
Apparently I've missed something that I can't find with the search function, but a dull question regarding the basic things... What are the differences between PM670 and original Fairchild 670?

I'm about to start the PM project soon, gathering the parts here :)
 
JoleFIN said:
Apparently I've missed something that I can't find with the search function, but a dull question regarding the basic things... What are the differences between PM670 and original Fairchild 670?

I'm about to start the PM project soon, gathering the parts here :)
Click to expand...

It's 10 tubes different for a kick off !!

Supposed to sound great though :)

MM.
 
JoleFIN said:
What are the differences between PM670 and original Fairchild 670?
Click to expand...

You should really ask, what is similar between a PM670 and Fairchild 670. And the answer is: the general topology to achieve Vari-mu compression, and nothing else.

I have found it extremely odd that so many people here have labeled their poormans with the Fairchild logo. It's like you build a really nice custom chopper from the ground up and stick a Rolls Royce logo on the gas tank.
 

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