Hairball Audio, LLC - DIY Kits and Components. HairballAudio.com

GroupDIY Audio Forum

Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
For the hook-up wire I like the teflon stuff, but it's spendy.  I hate the smell of melting anything so it's nice.  Mouser has the Belden 83005 but it's $43 for a 100ft roll.  You could check with Steve at Apex Jr and see what he has.

I've always used the Belden 8451.  $26 for a 100ft at mouser.  You can buy it by the foot at Markertek for $0.22/ft.

Mike
 
Mike, is there any  difference in the full size 1166 and the 1166-500? Im doing a 1 channel 1290 and the full size 1166 seems to big to fit in a 1 RU case. Thanks for any reply.

Carlos
 
deuc224 said:
Mike, is there any  difference in the full size 1166 and the 1166-500? Im doing a 1 channel 1290 and the full size 1166 seems to big to fit in a 1 RU case. Thanks for any reply.

Carlos

The dimensional info for each transformer is on the specific product pages.  There is a PDF link.  I would check the full size against the inside dimension of your particular enclosure since that can vary between manufactures. 

The 1166-500 is probably a safer bet.  It has the same specs as the 1166.  IIRC Ed mentioned the only compromise with the 1166-500 is that it had a slightly higher THD at max output vs the full size 1166.

Mike
 
Sweet!  Please keep me posted.  While I do like your site, I can't say I go there daily  ;)

I need SOMETHING to build!  The rest of my (3) projects are all waiting on parts and I can't do squat!!!  Your Pushbutton Rev A's got me completely addicted to DIY Compressors  ;D  I'd absolutely LOVE to compliment them with the 2-1176 Rev D.

I'm assuming I can go ahead and order the two Rev D PCB's from mnats since those take so long to ship?  Or is there a 2-1176 PCB in the works that I should wait for?

Thanks so much Hairball!  8)
 
The belden is 2 conductor, that could be messy, I have bought some single 18awg just for general misc. use, don't know if I'd need 100ft for 1 project, but I guess getting it from mouser means I get free postage, so might as well!
 
You need two types.  2 conductor w/ shield (like the Belden) for shielding when wiring involves the audio signal and regular hookup wire for non audio signal sources.

Mike
 
Echo North said:
deuc224 said:
Mike, is there any  difference in the full size 1166 and the 1166-500? Im doing a 1 channel 1290 and the full size 1166 seems to big to fit in a 1 RU case. Thanks for any reply.

Carlos

The dimensional info for each transformer is on the specific product pages.  There is a PDF link.  I would check the full size against the inside dimension of your particular enclosure since that can vary between manufactures.   

The 1166-500 is probably a safer bet.  It has the same specs as the 1166.  IIRC Ed mentioned the only compromise with the 1166-500 is that it had a slightly higher THD at max output vs the full size 1166.

Mike
Thanks Mike, the internal dimensions are 1.5 so yeah i guess ill get the 1166- 500. Be ordering next week ;D
 
FYI - I went ahead and ordered the pair of Rev D PCB's from mnats for my future 2-1176 (since those come from overseas - I figured I'd get a head start on them).  Please either e-mail me or post here if/when you have the 2-1176 Rev D knobless bundle ready to go.

Thanks so much!

Randyman

8)
 
If I don't have them up later today, they'll be up tomorrow afternoon at the latest.

Busy busy at Hairball this week!

Thanks,

Mike
 
At your leisure - Kind sir!  I know I'm buying stuff from you like crazy - so hopefully business is really kicking about now!  ;D  Busy busy busy as we are spendy spendy spendy  :D  You provide and we shall consume.


8)
 
The stereo kit is up near the bottom of "Kits and Bundles" section.

Eventually the custom knobs will be added to the kit but they are still 6 weeks out.

I still need to make a BOM.  Basically it's regular BOM doubled with some different power supply stuff and the rotary switches above x 2.  It might be a bit for the BOM as I need to test the switches/lamp in the enclosure.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Payment sent!  I'll keep my eyes peeled for any BOM updates.  I'll probably try to adjust the regular Rev D BOM to fit my needs.

I went ahead and ordered the PSU Boards from mntas as well - but couldn't I just use the individual on-baord PSU's off the common transformer - or is it better to have a single shared PSU section for consistency across the channels?  I'd think having the PSU's somewhat isolated would improve seperation when used as dual-mono?  This way the Rev D BOM will still be correct with regard to the PSU components.

Aside from omitting the pushbutton switches from your kit and adding the rotary switches from wherever stocks them - Are there any other differences on the Rev D BOM if I use individual PSU's?  I'm guessing that DPDT switches of appropriate size will be needed for the "Stereo Link" and "GR/Bypass" switches since these will handle both channels on a single switch?  Pretty much just two Rev D's in one enclosure beyond that - no?

Thanks!  I might actually get the 2-1176 done before the rest of my pre-ordered projects that are still waiting on parts!  So many projects to build - so many parts holding everything up!  :eek:

PS - I got a sneak peek at Dan's 2-1176 front panel layout - looks nice!  Can't wait for them to start shipping!

Rock on and on  8)
 
Definitely use the dual PS MNATS will send you with the boards.  It'll remove the messy redundancy of using to on board power supplies.

Both the meter and ratio rotaries I posted above are in stock at mouser.  The ratio will allow you to set it up for "slam" mode which Dan has on the front panel.  You'll need the dual power supply parts listed here:
http://mnats.net/psu.html

Yes DPDT, though technically I need to design a simple bypass/relay circuit.  You could also use an attack pot without a switch and use the "bypass" as a "GR off" instead.  Or make your own bypass if you don't want to wait for me.

Mike
 
Echo North said:
Definitely use the dual PS MNATS will send you with the boards.  It'll remove the messy redundancy of using to on board power supplies.

Potato, potato  :D .  If I don't mind populating both PCB's PSU's and the small added cost involved - is there an issue with wanting to eliminate the 5th PCB (the PSU PCB) in this build?  With the (2) Main PCB's, the TWO Stereo Link PCB's, plus the PSU PCB and 4 Transformers plus Mains Transformer in one chassis - it might start to get crammed ("messy"  ;) ) in there - no?  Jumping the 3 AC/0/AC wires from one PCB to the other seems cleaner and more space efficient by comparison.

Echo North said:
Both the meter and ratio rotaries I posted above are in stock at mouser.  The ratio will allow you to set it up for "slam" mode which Dan has on the front panel.  You'll need the dual power supply parts listed here:
http://mnats.net/psu.html

Yes DPDT, though technically I need to design a simple bypass/relay circuit.  You could also use an attack pot without a switch and use the "bypass" as a "GR off" instead.  Or make your own bypass if you don't want to wait for me.

Mike

So those rotary part numbers you posted above (page 35) are confirmed?  I'll add them to my list.  Do you have any good suggestions on the GR and Link DPDT switches that will fit in Dan's openings?

I don't really need a hardwired bypass and the associated relays - the GR Disable is all I need.

I did plan on scraping the Attack Pot w/Switch and using Dan's "GR/Bypass" position to connect PAD22 to Ratio Green (or whatever this will be on the rotary version) to enable GR, or connect PAD22 to Ground to "Bypass" with a DPDT (both channels on one switch).  So I'll also sub the pushbutton version's Attack pot w/switch with a plain pot of the same value.  Good?

Anything else I'm overlooing (aside from not having a case yet  :D ).  I guess the mains transformer you included is plenty adequate for 2 channels, the 2 stereo link boards, and 2 meter lamps (probably do the 2W voltage drop resistors on the AC Secondary like you recommend for the Pushbutton models)?  Maybe put one meter lamp on each AC secondary to spread the load more evenly?

Thanks so much Mr Mike.  8)
 
Back
Top