cheap donor mics for g7 body?

could anyone comment on the models of mics they have used as donors for the g7 body - ideally ones that fit gustav's pcb. the m-audio nova looked like it might be a good canidate.
-thanks, ben

http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=29209
nico

I doubt you will get one of Gustav's boards in an MXL 2001. As you can see, I didn't even have room for a tube socket.

I'm looking at the MXL v69 for G7 retrofit.
The 55mm mic case should be fine, size-wise.
Now I am looking for PSU docs on the MXL v69 to see if it is compatible with the G7 or if that will need a gut job as well.


I have heard the Apex 460 is too small BUT then I find a thread here where someone has gutted a Nady 1150 for G7 successfully (460 and 1150 are the same, pretty much)....???
Anyone have a G7 in an apex 460 successfully?

Cheers!

Stitch-o,

Don't bother with the Apex 460. With the big Lundahl and big Wimas on the PC board, it won't fit centered in the 460 barrell. Maybe it could be done mounting some components off-board, though.

Also, the 460 grill is very small diameter-wise, and I actually had problems with the capsule hitting the grill if shaken. I used the gold grill off of a MXL V67 with a little hackery, and it looks pretty cool.

I hacked the shit out of mine trying to make it work, and ended up mounting the tube vertically out the side of the body like Sony did on the C800. But that means drilling, adapting, threading, braising, or mickey-mousing a removable "cap" for the tube so you can take it apart or change tubes.

I still need to have some stuff machined to make it pretty, although it did sound pretty good with the Peluso capsule I tried. It's too ugly to post pictures of as of yet. Maybe when I get time to finish it right!

Tod

Why do people want to put a g7 pcb in a 460 1150 etc? Silly thing to do IMO.

It has a 9 pin socket and a standard type circuit cathode biased first stage.
change some parts and work with the PCBs as they are.

IIRC the V69 has a 200VDC B+ and a 9VDC fil supply.

I would leave the grill mesh as is it stock

[quote author="Mr. Snoid"]Stitch-o,

Don't bother with the Apex 460. With the big Lundahl and big Wimas on the PC board, it won't fit centered in the 460 barrell. Maybe it could be done mounting some components off-board, though.

Also, the 460 grill is very small diameter-wise, and I actually had problems with the capsule hitting the grill if shaken. I used the gold grill off of a MXL V67 with a little hackery, and it looks pretty cool.

I hacked the shit out of mine trying to make it work, and ended up mounting the tube vertically out the side of the body like Sony did on the C800. But that means drilling, adapting, threading, braising, or mickey-mousing a removable "cap" for the tube so you can take it apart or change tubes.

I still need to have some stuff machined to make it pretty, although it did sound pretty good with the Peluso capsule I tried. It's too ugly to post pictures of as of yet. Maybe when I get time to finish it right!

Tod[/quote]

Yeah, I pretty much put the Apex off the table.
I think I'll tear up a v69 and rebuild the PS.

Never too ugly?: Post some pics of the "frank-n-mic"!!!
I dig ALL them DIY mics


Cheers everyone! :thumb:

No need to rebuild the v69 supply.

The 9vdc for the heater is a nice extra. There is a series dropping resistor in the microphone body to drop the voltage at the heater to about 6VDC This helps with the turn on surge and helps filter noise on the heater. Add a resistor in the body.

The B+ look at a U67 circuit B+ and tube operating points.

[quote author="Gus"]Why do people want to put a g7 pcb in a 460 1150 etc? Silly thing to do IMO.

It has a 9 pin socket and a standard type circuit cathode biased first stage.
change some parts and work with the PCBs as they are.
[/quote]

Very true. The boards are easy to work on. Remember that most plate-out mic circuits are very similar.

There is a u47-size equivalent of these mics too which is probably a good choice.

[quote author="Gus"]No need to rebuild the v69 supply.

The 9vdc for the heater is a nice extra. There is a series dropping resistor in the microphone body to drop the voltage at the heater to about 6VDC This helps with the turn on surge and helps filter noise on the heater. Add a resistor in the body.

The B+ look at a U67 circuit B+ and tube operating points.[/quote]

thats a gem

I just bought a v69 off ebay for $65 with no power supply. I hope it fits!
-Ben

I did not find my notes on the v69. There are three voltages B+, heater and the solid state section. So I would check them first in case I remembered the voltages wrong.

I would leave the inner grill mesh in the the MXL V69 the grill gets very weak with the inside mesh removed and might sound better with the stock meshes.

Tube microphones without power supplies?

thanks for the advice on the mesh Gus. as far as the power supply, I have the g7 power supply pcb from gustav, so i'll just build that one.
-Ben

I found another possible donor from MXL:::
MXL 960
Recently discontinued but looks to fit the bill for body, headstock assembly and case...

How about this as a donor body?

http://www.alctron-audio.com/encpShow.asp?id=73

It is the same as the Pearlman, Peluso, etc. U47 style mics. If Gustav's boards fit nicely it could be a great candidate for G7 since the grille is open and roomy, and the body is wide enough to experiment (seems like it is).

ANyone try fitting Gustav's boards in one of these (or the many rebranded versions?)

[quote author="Category 5"]How about this as a donor body?

http://www.alctron-audio.com/encpShow.asp?id=73

It is the same as the Pearlman, Peluso, etc. U47 style mics. If Gustav's boards fit nicely it could be a great candidate for G7 since the grille is open and roomy, and the body is wide enough to experiment (seems like it is).

ANyone try fitting Gustav's boards in one of these (or the many rebranded versions?)[/quote]

just check the mic body measurements and look for 50mm x ~180mm.
I didn't see any info on the link/site...

Peluso lists his at Size: 58mm x 235 mm. Seems like it should work admirably.