Sending Frontpanels: Advise !

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Greg

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 7, 2004
Messages
1,784
Location
New Orleans, LA
I'm ready to send the frontpanel and the Frontpanel Express file for a G1176 I'm making. I already have the frontpanel, which I bought from Par-Metal.

So I just send Frontpanel Express the panel and a floppy with my .fpd file. Correct? I don't think I need to call them or anything prior to shipping, right?

Also, I decided not the get the in-filling because I'm using Gyraf type knobs and I think the silver from the panel will match with the silver in the knobs? Would anyone recommend against this? Most of the panels I've seen have white in-filling. Has anyone out there not used the in-filling?

All my other DIY gear doesn't have any panel graphics... I'm very excited and nervous about doing this at the same time.
 
Greg,

When you order their stock with a credit card it is all very automatic,
no need to call them. You will get an email that they recieved your order.
Later you will get another email when they ship your order.

Wait, are you using your own stock? I have never tried that.

Tamas
 
I just had a panel done by them and the work is very nice. I didn't get the in-fill...looks fine. Actually, it almost looks white because the tool spins so fast it polishes the metal a bit. You might want to send an e-mail with your file in case the floppy gets corrupted during shipping. They're very friendly and helpful. My only dislike about it all is the fact they use pre-anodized stock and cut your panel from it. The outer edges of the panel are then bare and not anodized.
 
Tamas:

I started with the basic design from nrgrecording's DIY site. I then did a little bit of tweaking on the text and put in "dummy" cavities to make sure my knobs will be mounted directly in the center of the macro that nrg used. I then went the Par-Metal website and got the exact placement of their mounting holes. You are correct, they are a bit different. In fact, I had to shift all of the panel graphics a few mm to the left b/c the "meter" and "power" knob were too close to the mounting holes. Thanks for the heads up, though. I'm very confident in the frontpanel design. I've been working on it for some time now.

But yes, I plan to send them the panel I bought from Par-Metal... hopefully someone around here has done that so I can get some feedback.
 
[quote author="Viitalahde"]Does someone remember Kent's compressor panels? :green:

THRESHOLD

RATIO
[/quote]

Yes, that was hilarious !!! Too bad, though.
 
Hey

I used frontpanel designer and sent my own frontpanel to schaeffer in Germany for me SSL - all went smooth just ticking the 'use customers material' checkbox in the settings, then u just write a ref # (which is given when u order with the software) on ya panels and send!
 
[quote author="daArry"]Hey

I used frontpanel designer and sent my own frontpanel to schaeffer in Germany for me SSL - all went smooth just ticking the 'use customers material' checkbox in the settings, then u just write a ref # (which is given when u order with the software) on ya panels and send![/quote]

Thanks!!! I will send tomorrow.
 
I don't use the filling with mine either. i had one with the white and one with the silver(no fill) and you can't really tell the difference unless it's a LOT of fill area. I also just buy my Par-Metal boxes without the frontpanel and handles(-10 to 12$) and FPD charges like 7-10$ for their panels so you actually come out around the same but FPD charges a setup fee for your panel so you might actually come out in the red sending in your own panel..? I'm about to design my dual 1176 panel, can you post the file so we can take a look?

good luck! :guinness:
 
[quote author="Svart"]I'm about to design my dual 1176 panel, can you post the file so we can take a look?
[/quote]

Sure, I'm at work right now and have class this evening... I should have it posted tonight or tomorrow morning.
 
Hey Greg,
I had the same scenario as you. But my panel was silver and it was for an SSL comp. I sent them the panel in and emailed the design and it was perfect. The only thing that I would recomend is to make sure you are not going to run into trouble with the front of the box. I actually had to move all my wholes up by 1 or 2 mm so my pots and switches would fit better on the inside for my second one.
You might want to draw the whole panel with the rack holes and mounting holes and get a quote from them. It may be just as much or even cheaper than shipping your panel in.

good luck
I'll send you some pics of my ssl clone if i find them...
Gil
 
Hi Greg!

To order the panel there is an extra program in the frontpanel express programm. You have to import all *.fpd files to this program and add some information... like adress, payment methode...

as said before check the box "use customer's material" (if you like to send your own panel to them)
you can also use material (black anodized alu) from them BUT
the edges of the panel are blanc aluminium :evil: i really hate that :wink:

you have to choose the correct thickness of the aluminium
(when I ordered panels and entered the wrong thicknes... they called me back and asked about that)

for me it works always good to print the panel and check everything before sending a file to them... it's easier to find errors on a paper as on the computerscreen (for me at least)

i added some information to the site:
http://www.nrgrecording.de/html/schaeffer.html#information : :

and yes... i was excited too when i send the files for 5 panels to frontpanelexpress/schaeffer :green:
good luck :wink:
 
[quote author="tommytones"], it almost looks white because the tool spins so fast it polishes the metal a bit. [/quote]

I agree. I just had them engrave a front and back panel for my G1176. I used my own panels (CH-2 Atlantic). I choose the sky blue and red fill-in against the black panel and the edges look a little white with the blue, more so in certain areas than others but not on the red. I am VERY pleased with their service. I also agree with whoever here recommended printing it out first. I did that and found mistakes. Also, I actually placed my pots into the paper to make sure the mounting holes were perfect.

Go Boston.
 
To all:

Thanks for all the advise !!! I really appreciate it.

Today at work I printed the front panel on a 13"x19" piece of paper and put it on top of the panel... that's when I noticed that the "meter" and "power" knobs were too close to the mounting holes. Too close aesthetically... it did clear the holes. I shifted a couple millimeters over and it looks much better now.

To BR:
Luckily I'm working with a 2U chassis, so I won't have any clearance issues with pots and the like. I have 1 GSSL complete (with no panel graphics) and another in the works. If you come across your files, shoot them to me.

To nrg:
Your site is excellent. Since I've never spoken with you directly, I want to thank you for putting up all the usefull info you have on your site. I started with your G1176 design and did a few tweaks to taste.

To Orson:
Boston - 8 New York - 1
2 Outs bottom on the 6th...
 
[quote author="orson whitfield"]Martinez is not the guy you put in. What's not broken don't fix.[/quote]

Remember last year? They just want to give him a chance to do it right this time. Not that I agree with Francona's decision, but I guess we'll see...

Two innings to go, 8-3 Red Sox.

Peace,
Al.
 
The evil empire has fallen. :shock: Congratulations Boston. This makes that 97' Marlin team look even better. Money doesn't buy everything. :grin:

Sorry I hijacked this thread.
 
ok, ok... enough basball... back to front panels !!!

I'm trying to make a small triangle that I want to put in my SSL front panel design, but cannot figure out how.

HELP!
 
hey Greg

this is within FPD i take it? You could use the line tool I guess, but if u want a solid might have to HPGL it...
 
yes I would prefer for it to be solid... how do I create HPGL files to be imported? In Photoshop or Corel or something like that?
 
You can export HPGL from CorelDRAW! You can also convert an Illustrator EPS to HPGL format using pstoedit (like I do for the scales).

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen
 

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