[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...

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Almost done a parts list here. Was wondering Mako, board says r44 is 2k, list says 5k, schematic doesn't state...which value is this?

Regarding the parts list requests:

I'm just basically going through each part one at a time, selecting type and matching capacitance values along with adequate voltage and temperature ratings. Only certain values for most cap's will fit the lead spacings and there is a picture of the board stuffed. It shouldn't be too hard to figure it out from here. I think most of my cap's i'm using are in the 50v-100v(tantalums/electro/wimas) range excluding the small micas which are rated 500v. The Orange Drops are 100v i believe. The larger electrolytics in the power supply are labelled.


 
Rob Flinn said:
Are you using Tantalums for the 6u8 ??    Is that what was used in the original ?
Yes. I believe that's what was used but there are also modern low-leakage electrolytics that will do fine.
desol said:
board says r44 is 2k, list says 5k, schematic doesn't state...which value is this?
I found that I needed a little more resistance to calibrate mine correctly so I changed the BOM. Yours might calibrate fine with 2k.
desol said:
Only certain values for most cap's will fit the lead spacings
The lead pitch of the caps are fairly standard and there are multiple footprints for all the coupling caps in the audio path. Just stuff the board, fire it up and stop worrying about having the "right" components!
 
The power X-former I used for my G1176 was part #: TE62045-ND from Digikey. Could I use the same one for this RevA board? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Siegfried Meier said:
Would love to see a parts list like the one nimbleswitch made for the Rev D - initially I thought that many parts were similar, but looking now it seems that is not entirely the case.

http://nimbleswitch.com/diy/1176_revD/index.php?page=parts

I'd would also really appreciate it if someone could share a list like that.

Incidentally, has anyone starting putting their revA together? If so, how's it going?
 
I'm building a rev D on Christmas. And am totally interested in this. But the boards seem to be sold out now...

Mnats designs are fantastic. But not for the beginner. No one has made a point and click BOM for this yet...

When the boards become available I think I would like to use all carbon resistors and ceramics like the original. I can't wait! And most of the fun for me will be choosing the components. Maybe that's the point. ;)

And orange drops are sexy lol... But my girl may not agree she likes the "Blue Beads" (resistors)
 
I'm curious what exactly is the sound difference between this and the Rev D?
Mnats would you happen to have a few audio examples if possible?

As I have The Xfmers [altran + cinemag = "ed"], NOS Mallory t600 + rev d board set.
Maybe I could use those parts for this and hold off on the rev.D pending info?
 
I would build your rev D. It is one of the very few items that works on everything every time. I use it on everything with great success.
I am assembling my second rev D now. But definitely plan on making a rev A when the boards are available again. 

 
just stuffing some of these nice boards,

regarding C16 - 38pf - i'm having a hard time finding one of these, how crucial is the value? will 33pf or 47pf do the trick?
 
I was wondering the same thing.  I found a 39pf, but it wasn't the cap type I wanted.  If I can use a 33pf or 47pf, then I'd be happier :)
 
Hi there , may I ask if this reference (@ Mouser) is correct :
225P15491XD3
Mnats Page said : 225P15491SD3 , but I had no results with this Prt number.(0.15µF)
I assume this is a noob question.Just don't want to waste time & money (!)  ;D
Thx guys.
 
I ordered this part number here:  75-225P100V0.15       
That's a 100 volt .15 orange drop with 9.5mm spacing. I haven't gotten a board yet but I believe this will work. Just check me on the lead spacing. Mine were sent to Louisiana instead of Pennsylvania so I haven't seen them yet.  ::)

I'm interested in C-16 myself. I couldn't find a wima for that value...       
 
I used a 200v .15 orange drop (mouser 75-225P200V0.15) and it fit in fine.  Im sure you'll be fine with 75-225P100V0.15.  The hardest thing to find has been that heatsink for the 2N3053. Any ideas on where to find one like in the picture?
 
The 2N3053 heatsink is this one: mouser #532-578305b00 Works great. My REV D has extensive use with this one... Just lightly brush a little artic silver or other thermal paste on heat sinks before installing. They are 25 cents if you buy 10. ;)

The 3053 is rated to 392 F or 200 C It may seem hot to touch even with this heat sink. But that is normal. No worries. My infrared thermometer measures about 150 F.
 

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