4-gang reverse log taper potentiometer?

I suppose I should not be surprised at all that I'm having such a problem finding a part like this. Does anyone have a lead on where I might find one? It looks like Alpha makes something like what I need, but nobody seems to sell them anywhere. Thanks!

This is for a (theoretically) 600ohm balanced stereo signal, so I think I'd want a 50k for that? I can't remember how that works.

Colin's got some

Carbon:
http://audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/potentiometers_carbon_16mm_diameter_triple_and_quad_gang.html

Conductive Plastic:
http://audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/potentiometers_conductive_plastic.html

Edit - completely wrong thread  ???

Jakob E.

Thanks for the links, mitsos. I was really hoping for something in the States, but it looks like what I need is actually out there somewhere.

Consul said:

This is for a (theoretically) 600ohm balanced stereo signal, so I think I'd want a 50k for that? I can't remember how that works.

Click to expand...

WOuld this not perhaps be better done with a 4 gang rotary switch ???  Somthing like this with some fixed resistors http://www.uraltone.com/kauppa/product_info.php?products_id=1078

Remote possibility, but let's mention it:

Probably the most expensive component of the Rane DC 24 is its hiQ-looking 4-gang pot, and it must be a revlog I assume:

http://www.rane.com/pdf/old/dc24sch.pdf

'100kE', and an Alpha IIRC. In case you find a broken/trashed/battered DC 24 with that pot still in it (like I did recently), this potzilla might fit your need.

Bye,

  Peter

Rob Flinn said:

WOuld this not perhaps be better done with a 4 gang rotary switch ???  Somthing like this with some fixed resistors http://www.uraltone.com/kauppa/product_info.php?products_id=1078

Click to expand...

I could go that route if I felt like soldering 84 resistors into a (for example) 21-position 4-deck switch. Naw, I'd rather pay for a decent potentiometer, I think. 

One question I would have now: will I really notice a difference between a conductive plastic pot and a carbon pot, in terms of the sound? I'm thinking I would be hard-pressed, if not find it impossible, to tell the difference.

Also, if I'm switching between two different output sources, do I want shorting or non-shorting for the switch.

I used to know all this stuff, but I've been away from DIY for so long, I've forgotten everything.

Try these guys

http://www.state-elec.com/

GARY

Thanks, Gary. I went ahead and emailed them about what I'm after, since I didn't find it on their site.

Consul said:

Rob Flinn said:

WOuld this not perhaps be better done with a 4 gang rotary switch ???  Somthing like this with some fixed resistors http://www.uraltone.com/kauppa/product_info.php?products_id=1078

Click to expand...

I could go that route if I felt like soldering 84 resistors into a (for example) 21-position 4-deck switch. Naw, I'd rather pay for a decent potentiometer, I think. 

Click to expand...

What would possibly worry me about using a pot is the poor tolerence between tracks of even quite expensive pots.  But  suppose this really depends on the way in which your impementing the pot, so who knows ?   Anyway how long does it take to solder 84 resistors ?  Not that long  ! 

Hrm, you have a good point there.

State Electronics quoted me about $125 or so for a custom pot, so I just might go ahead and get a 10 or 11 position 4-deck switch and some resistors. I don't really need too many volume steps.

Egad, do the options ever stop?!

Not only do I have a selection on number of decks (that part's easy), but I can choose the number of poles per deck. I'm assuming I only need one, but I'm not so sure anymore.

Digi-key has some decent looking 12-position rotary switches for about $30. I can get 1 or 2 poles per deck. I don't want to spend $30 on the wrong switch...

EDIT: Never mind. These are all non-shorting switches. The equivalent shorting switches run $90 a piece. I don't know why there's such a discrepancy. Looks like I'm back to that conductive plastic pot from England.

Ask the New York Dave, he is all over the input thing.

If you are checking of customs pots, call Omeg. They may be cheaper than state..

Consul

If you want to go the switch route call the OEM dept at Grayhill
You can probably get them to send you a shorting version on their
samples program.  The price will be right as well!

GARY

one more option for ya...

http://tinyurl.com/ebayswitch

I don't remember if I bought from this guy before but I definitely emailed him when I was looking for pm660 switches. This doesn't say shorting or non, but they should have shorting ones or be able to get them.  Takes about 10 days to get it.

re check Colins stuff at audiomaintenance, if its what you need its not anywhere near the prices your being quoted even with shipping and hes a hell of a chap to deal with!!!

Iain

You know, this thread makes me wonder what percentage of threads here at the Lab are from people looking for a part. ;D

I would first like to thank everyone for helping me out. Colin's conductive plastic pot (10% tolerance) is looking like a good way to go, but I'm going to exhaust all of my rotary switch options first, since I don't know what that ten percent might do to my stereo imaging. I've been out of this for so long, I've forgotten everything.

Consul said:

since I don't know what that ten percent might do to my stereo imaging.

Click to expand...

If you go for a four-way potzilla (with some inherent mismatch) then you'd get the best of that given situation to measure each segment & group accordingly for L & R. It will push imbalance back again a bit.

Regards,

  Peter