PASSIVE RELAY-BASED CONTROLL ROOM KITS BUILD/SUPPORT TREAD

No, it isn't normal. I remember, we sent 3 kits about month ago.
Please PM or mail me your shipping address, will do best to fix it.

You scare me !!!...

Franck rivoire
12rue fabien roussel
69520 Grigny
France

my mail : [email protected]

PM'd, mailed

Hey Igor,

I sent you a couple of emails about the spare CRM chip.  Did you get them?

Yes, was in total run, chips sent today, mailed tracking nr,
just found some time now to go thru e-mails etc.

Tomcat,
    Are you still looking to sell your desktop controller case?  If so PM me with where you are located and how much you think you want for it, thanks

hi Igor,

I received the chips this morning so thank you.  They did not solve my problem, but I have managed to find out what was the matter.

I could see that there was no 5V after C8, so I presumed that C8 had somehow died.  However, when I removed C8 from the board, I saw that the 5V rail going to it was broken.  I have soldered a small wire between the 5V side of the V Reg and the anode of C8 and now the board works again. 

Before I contacted you, I saw that there was +5V after the voltage regulator so therefore assumed the whole power section was OK.  Live and learn eh...

One more thing - I accidentally lifted the trace going to the cathode of the Dim LED.  I could see that the trace went to one side of R11, so I just took that cable going to the LED anode and soldered it directly to the correct side of R11.

Now, I get 11.4V over the Dim LED.  All the others are around 1.8V when they're lit.  Obviously 11.4V will have blown the Dim LED, but why is the voltage so high?  All the circuit does is 12V > LED > R11 and I have bypassed one trace.  R11 still checks out as 1.2k ohm.  I can't see any shorts anywhere on the board...

Any idea what the problem could be?

Hi Rob, good news. Hope it works now, let's fix the led issue.

Cathode of DIM led goes to R9, not 11. R11 goes to cathode (-) of TRIM led.
If the led gone, and does not conducts (interestingly, FUBAR'ed zeners usually shows short,
but led's infinity), there's no appropriate voltage drop (1.8V) on blown led.
Just check everything again, replace led...etc)

Igor said:

Hi Rob, good news. Hope it works now, let's fix the led issue.

Cathode of DIM led goes to R9, not 11. R11 goes to cathode (-) of TRIM led.
If the led gone, and does not conducts (interestingly, FUBAR'ed zeners usually shows short,
but led's infinity), there's no appropriate voltage drop (1.8V) on blown led.
Just check everything again, replace led...etc)

Click to expand...

Sorry - it is Trim that has gone.  Dim is working fine.  Slight confusion on my part : ;D

I'll try replacing the LED and seeing what happens...

By the way - you've got mail

Rob, any updates?

I haven't had a chance to look at this yet, and I'm unsure whether I will.

You remember I laid out the front panel controls on veroboard?  Well getting is all apart is a real pain and for the Trim LED, I'm not sure it is worth it.  I will get round to it one day, but perhaps not today 

I'll put your CRM chips back in the post to you this week though.

Cheers

Rob

That freakin allergo chip is hard to get. Any ideas..... subs?

So I'm just getting at building these, much later than everyone else!  I just have a quick question regarding the 3 LED displays.  There's more pins than there is holes in the PCB, am I supposed to cut off the legs?  Feels wrong to me...

Thanks!
Sig

Siegfried Meier said:

So I'm just getting at building these, much later than everyone else!  I just have a quick question regarding the 3 LED displays.  There's more pins than there is holes in the PCB, am I supposed to cut off the legs?  Feels wrong to me...

Thanks!
Sig

Click to expand...

That doesn't sound right.  Did you get the kit, or source the components yourself?

I replaced the green LED displays with red ones from Farnell and they fitted OK as I recall.  It's casting my mind back quite a while now, but the only question I had to ask was whether the boards fitted common anode or common cathode displays...

I ended my CMR few day ago, every works fine.. great project.. and yes I have cut the surpus pin on the leds..

M.

Full kit from Igor, although some stuff is missing...

But, they're the red LED displays, and they have 6 legs on one side, and 5 legs on the other side.  On the PCB, there is only 3 holes on one side and 6 holes on the other.  The 6 holes line up, and the LED display would be oriented correctly (with the dot LED on the bottom left and right sides), but the pins on the one side gotta go.  There's no other way to make em fit.

Any thoughts?

Cut them. Dont know which red ones you have but the ones igor was refereing some time ago have a few unused extra pins which you can cut.

P.S. datasheets are available on the web for comparsion

Cool, they're cut.

I'm unclear about these resistor networks - RN1, RN2, RN3.  Do I just pull 4.7 resistors through, solder on the control board side, and then solder each resistor together on the underside?

And I wanted to add this Photoresistor.  Anyone do it?  Where would I get it?

Thanks guys,
Sig

Also need to find that reset switch, anyone know where to get those?

Thanks!!
Sig

Resistors: Yes, solder them standing, bend one wire so it crosses all other wires, solder, cut. Pin 1 is common for all resistors, no resistor into this hole!

Reset switch: same as on/off/on powercycle. Not necessary if you dont do pic programming (info from igor)

Photoresistor: look up this thread, had a discussion with igor about it. Couldnt find a proper value so im using a resistor.