PASSIVE RELAY-BASED CONTROLL ROOM KITS BUILD/SUPPORT TREAD

Audioman said:

Hi Guys ,
Problem finally solved !!
Today after reading again al the post of this thread i found the solution to my problem, i changed the two resistors R13 and R14 from 4k7 to 1K and now all is working flawlessly !!
Thank you all for support !!
Fabio

Click to expand...

Congrats

Et Voilà !! This is the unit with the new Summing Mixer and the Dual LA-4 work in progress .
Thank you all for the huge support !!
Fabio

Another Picture .

hi where can I buy this kit and what is the cost of shipping to Polish

It is no longer for sale Im afraid

any one knows somting about the 3f1d pushbutton's... order number,datasheet or shop .... in my kit they are not ink....

the pushbuttons : http://it.farnell.com/multimec/3ftl600/switch-body-led-blue/dp/1132954?Ntt=1132954
the caps of the pushbuttons : http://it.farnell.com/multimec/1e091/cap-round-lens-black/dp/1132905?Ntt=1132905
these are the italian link of farnell site take the farnell code and switch the web site on your language

many thank's

i think i may have damaged my crm by accident. i have my remote mounted in my desk but the pcb is open on the underside of it and in moving some stuff around i think the small pcb which is connected to the vga cable has touched something on the main pcb for the remote and shorted something. I certainly heard some relays click.

Now the unit doesn’t pass any audio. The encoder doesn’t make any relays click [it does show the numbers on the screen changing though] The unit is stuck on input 1 and output 1. I can’t select anything else except mono and dim which click sporadically

There is definitely audio going in as I have meters on the inputs which are showing signal

I should mention that i didn’t build the unit and I don’t really know much about electronics and I had the unit modified to give 3 inputs and 4 outputs. It’s documented in this thread if anyone is wondering what that entails.

I’ve tried resetting the unit as per the instructions Igor explained earlier in the thread. But when I power it up with trim pressed it will go to “stu” but as soon as i release it the screen says cut. Further than that it just does exactly as before, where I can’t press anything.

I worry that I've damaged the micro controller. Is there anyway to get a new one?

Can anybody think of anything else it might be?

Cheers

Hey guys, i too wanted to start this build but seeing that Igor is not around anymore makes this a lot more difficult

I think moving forward Arduino is a good option to use as a controller i.e. basically build a new control unit
as long as we have a list of the necessary functions and how they control the hardware then all is not lost we can maybe come up
with another unit based on the Arduino especially if Gyraf can help us out with that code

other than schematic are there any PCB trace documents around?

I have layout, bom, and schematic for this but it would make life a whole lot easier if the traces were available

We'll have to get our thinking caps on from here 

Hi. I think that pcb files are possible. Do u need both boards or just audio?

Hey Moby thanks for the reply, I think i would just need the audio board traces. Having the controller board file(s) also would help me understand the control unit better, it may take some time but i would like to maybe create some other way of controlling the unit with arduino and later maybe a new controller circuit and make it available to the community.

My best friends are all programmers so i believe it is very doable via arduino. However it probably won't be easy but i'm sure with time we'll get something going!

EvilGenius said:

Hey Moby thanks for the reply, I think i would just need the audio board traces. Having the controller board file(s) also would help me understand the control unit better, it may take some time but i would like to maybe create some other way of controlling the unit with arduino and later maybe a new controller circuit and make it available to the community.

My best friends are all programmers so i believe it is very doable via arduino. However it probably won't be easy but i'm sure with time we'll get something going!

Click to expand...

Hi, drop me the mail so we can figure out something

Did anyone found out these?

http://www.amb.org/audio/lcduino1/

http://www.amb.org/audio/delta2/

http://www.amb.org/audio/delta1/

Janzoulou said:

Did anyone found out these?

http://www.amb.org/audio/lcduino1/

http://www.amb.org/audio/delta2/

http://www.amb.org/audio/delta1/

Click to expand...

I might give those a go and see how I get along.

T hanks to our friend Silvas we finally have a hex file check here:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=55264.msg740118#msg740118

Igor said:

Encoder: for very reliable, un-kill-able thing, check HRPG-AD16.
I saw them used on evilbay for cheap. Need more info - feel free to ask.
ALPS is good enough, but I replaced them after some thinking.
We use HRPG-AD16 in DB Studios CRM on SSL 4k console (we added surround - 3 kits like yours from same control) and at La-Vi console.

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Hi everybody!
So I need to replace my encoder after long time-used.  ;D

So this one is the right?

http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Avago-Technologies/HRPG-AD1656F/?qs=YDL0qNrpDT7Tpr02PuxXGw%3D%3D

and can someone please share with me how do I connect it to the PCB? Are there any modifications needed? In the specs I see that it has 5 pins, not 3 or is it just a wrong picture in the specs?

And does it fit, as it is higher than the ALPS...

Lots of questions for such a tiny issue... lol

Thanks in advance! Fredi

Janzoulou said:

Igor said:

Encoder: for very reliable, un-kill-able thing, check HRPG-AD16.
I saw them used on evilbay for cheap. Need more info - feel free to ask.
ALPS is good enough, but I replaced them after some thinking.
We use HRPG-AD16 in DB Studios CRM on SSL 4k console (we added surround - 3 kits like yours from same control) and at La-Vi console.

Click to expand...

Hi everybody!
So I need to replace my encoder after long time-used.  ;D

So this one is the right?

http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Avago-Technologies/HRPG-AD1656F/?qs=YDL0qNrpDT7Tpr02PuxXGw%3D%3D

and can someone please share with me how do I connect it to the PCB? Are there any modifications needed? In the specs I see that it has 5 pins, not 3 or is it just a wrong picture in the specs?

And does it fit, as it is higher than the ALPS...

Lots of questions for such a tiny issue... lol

Thanks in advance! Fredi

Click to expand...

I haven't done this, but I too am considering a new encoder. Depends how much space you have between the pcb and your faceplate. I'm using 10mm standoffs and the height of the body of this Avago encoder is 11.4mm. It'd be a tight fit for sure. I'd start to worry the push buttons would be then sunk in too low. I do like that the Avago has more shaft options though. It has 4 corner mounts and the pcb is looking for 2 side mounts - but that probably wouldn't matter as it's mounted o the faceplate with a nut at the shaft.

UPDATE:

I just bought the ribboned version here http://www.ebay.com/itm/390121123473

I'll let you know how it works out for me (or not). Thinking if it's a tight fit, I might dismantle the encoder and pull the ribbon out from under the body (to gain free up another 1mm of space). TBD...

Thanks a lot! 

So mine is soldered direct to the  PCB such as the pushbuttons. 10mm stand - offs also. 3mm faceplate. So my guess is it won't fit.

Are there any good encoders left, except the ALPS?

Thanks for letting me know about your proceed.  ;D

Cheers, Fredi

Hey Fredi,

So I received that HRPG encoder. Seems it will fit if I pull the ribbon wire out from underneath - it's body is just about 10mm in height. However... I soldered it in using the corresponding B/C/A pins, but it is non-responsive. I assume it has something to do with the 2 leftover wires (1 ground and 1 shield). I'm not sure where these would go since there is only a 'DGND' (digital ground) on the controller board.  When I power up, the display reads "CUT" and makes no relay noise when turned. Every other function (buttons) work fine and I hear relays doing their thing. I tried a system reset and made no difference. I'm not savvy enough to know where to connect these grounds, without fearing that I might fry something.

UPDATE:

Someone attempted this replacement earlier in the thread - had similar issues but apparently figured it out:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=30914.msg644593#msg644593