Some questions regarding the GSSL 4000

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DenDer

Active member
Joined
Feb 19, 2008
Messages
36
Location
In a big subwoofer near Amsterdam, Holland
Hi guys,

I've had these boards ( rev 7 ) lying around for quiet some time now and last week i saw the light and started soldering this bb's up.
I'm constructing a Dual Stereo Compressor which i will house in an old busted Akai sampler that i bought for 50 euro's. ;D  Actually a nice move since its already has a power supply and XLR connectors.
So at the moment i'm designing my frontpanel that i'll send to Schaeffer. It is getting wicked 8) but i need to know how many holes there are to drill.........

Now for some questions.  ;)

I want to apply the HPF boards designed by Steffen and the the Turbo boards. Now i've did some reading about all of this and came to the conclusion that if i want to apply the Turbo mod i'll have to construct dual HPF boards. In my case 2x dual HPF boards and off course 2x Turbo boards.

What i want to know is in the manual of the Turbo mod i read that i've to use a dual gang switch on the HPF boards. So does this mean i can use one Lorlin that switches both at the same time?
And the 10K pot/trimmer is that an inboard one or does that one go to the frontpanel to?

And if i read the instructions on the Turbo mod well there is one extra hole to be drilled in the frontpanel if i'm making it switchable.


So to summen things up for the holes to drill:

Ratio, Attack, Release, Make Up, Treshold, Bypass. these are standard holes of the GSSL.

HPF mod and Turbo mod: Turbo bypass switch, HPF select switch.

Any links to other threads will do by the way.
Thanx in advance, Dennis


 
Well i found the answers myself ;) I was correct on the holes and the 10K is precision trimmer ::)

But one other thing..... i read that if i want to do the Turbo mod, the HPF can be left out because it wouldn't make that much of a difference. Does anybody have both mods in there GSSL? I really would like to have an external sidechain on this....so leave it in then?

And does anybody know what the diameter is of the VU meter sold by http://diypartssupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=3
 
heya, dender.

i assume you'll want that in milLIMeters...
[me=bugfight]pulls out his calipers[/me]

i read 34 mm on the round part and 35.1 mm on the square part.
 
Hee Buggie, nice to see you here to man!!

Thanks for the measurements.....and yes indeed in needed those in mm's.....and it was indeed the round part that i needed. Now i can finish the design.....thanks again. *thumbs up by DenDer

Twinnie is hanging around here to, i noticed.....we keep on building these things aren't we?
 
Another question concerning the NE5532.

By one of the boards that i bought from a guy on Dutch forum, he also supplied the chips. The ones he bought are the NE5532P....the ones that i bought are the NE5532AP.

Is there a significant difference between these 2 chips? Or should i swop the P's for AP's?
 
Usually, if the BOM or silkscreen specifies a par like NE5532 you can just ignore if you're using a NE5532XYZABCDEFG or whatever. They will all have to meet certain specs to qualify as a NE5532 and those are the particular specs you need to worry about. So if it says NE5532 then just buy NE5532 chips regardless of their suffix. Only thing you should make sure is not to accidentallly buy SMD versions or chips in housings other than one that'll fit the socket. I.e. SIL instead of DIL.
 
Okay thnx Luny...than there is nothing to worry about for me. i just read that the P was a high speed one and the AP not.
Now i only have to wait on the Akai to arrive and my frontpanel, which is truly beautiful if i may say so myself.. :) Blue with white and orange ingraved letters, dual meters...jummy. Can't wait to show it when it's finished. ;D
 
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