Cheap wide angle lens

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sonicmook56

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 17, 2005
Messages
299
Location
Los Angeles | Echo Park
I picked up a cheap wide angle lens attachment off ebay and shot some stuff in the shop when I took it out of the box.  A lot of folks on photography forums sat these lenses suck, but it works great for what I expect it to do.

Kodak Tri-X in HC-110 (B).


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sick.

what speed were you shooting?

i just got into film.
mamiya rb67 pro S, just got back from a trip shooting velvia 50, provia 100, astia 100. and some tmax 100.
gonna get them developed soon, hope they turn out ok.

once again, cool shots man. love the contrast and grain
 
The description of "sucks" depends on your expectations from a lens. Now I wouldn't call that attachment "sucks" but it has terrible distortion on the edges even though you are close up.  In fact a lense is mostly judged by the image quality on the edges. But at the end of the day if it gives you what you want then it is rock'n roll.

I used to have a Russian Kiev medium format. Of course it was hardly a Haselblad but it served me well for the type of work I did (architectural). However, I still keep my  Russian 35mm 35/f3.5PC (perspective control or shift) lens and it is in the same league with Nikon in my view.

Enjoy it.



 
I thought that was a fisheye! All that matters is that you like what it captures. Might mess people's faces up a bit if you take pictures of them though.

I shoot with a Zuiko 28mm and 17mm super-wide, and also have a Jupiter-12 35mm for my FED Leica copy. Fun stuff.
 
Ptownkid said:
am i the only one who sees no photos...

hmm...  Should work, works here.  Maybe the server timed out?

I's all 400 ISO.  At first I thought the edge distortion was just a depth of field thing, but now I don't think it is.  It's just a one trick pony. ;)

I like it.

Here are a couple more with the same lens, non audio related.
Gear.jpg

Kel.jpg
 
The wide angle lens screws onto the accessory threads of whatever lens you have.  I used a 70-35mm lens with the wide angle.

Google or ebay search "0.42X wide angle"

My camera is branded Kalamar, but it's just a cheap Chinese wanabe copy of a Minolta.  No automatic anything on this camera body.

I also have a 19-35mm lens I like a lot too, again very cheap, branded "Promaster"


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sahib said:
I used to have a Russian Kiev medium format.
Woot, I had a Kiev 10 Automat, what amazing camera that was! Automatic and with no batteries, fully mechanical. Too bad it broke eventually...
Now I have to stick with cheapo soapbox digital cam, so I got a wide angle adapter from ebay too.
0.72x, supposedly made in japan. I was looking to get more barrel distortion...   :D
Should probably look for 0.42x now...
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ah...tri-x in hc-110...a man after my own heart.
i prefer tri-x with rodinal on slow development speed.
I used to go 320 iso because i was doing 4x4.5 most of the time.
In 35mm i rocked out the 400 alot.

Try out tmax with hc-110, use agfa RC MC paper(cheapest from adorama in NY).
Makes a nice tone.
just dont ever use tmax with rodinal!  :eek:
a buddy of mine that was sort of my mentor used to add vitamin c extract to the rodinal to increase grain....crazy guy.

The pics look good, but if i were doing a magazine, that is the place i would bitch, with the vignette distortion.
Is this a video camera filter that converts to fisheye?
 
Sonicmook,

Few tips on the architectural stuff. On the first picture; keep the kerb line on the background completely horizontal. Also if you let the kerb on the foreground exit the frame on the left hand corner you'll get better perspective. I would also tilt the camera up a bit to capitalise on the curvature of the building.

Enjoy it again.
 
Roddy,

When were you in Chicago?

Nice shot of "The Bean." Funny, I'm across the street from it everyday I have class, and I never bother to get up close.

On the photo front, I'm just a tinkerer. The Lomography fisheye camera is sleazy, artsy fun.

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Brian
 
no wide angle lenses for me...
well i have a 28-105 sigma 2.8-4.0 ....but it is on a d100 with a 3/4 sensor.
here is my flickr deal if the photo peoples want to looksee
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrphotodude/

i have wondered about the tamaron 12-24mm....supposed to be almost as good as the nikon version but only 500 bucks opposed to 1200.
 
You have a lot of transformers Mr.Photodude.

rodabod said:
Terrible barrel distortion particularly in the centre of the frame with my 17mm....

Stunning shot!  How do they keep that sphere so polished?

sahib said:
Few tips on the architectural stuff. On the first picture; keep the kerb line on the background completely horizontal. Also if you let the kerb on the foreground exit the frame on the left hand corner you'll get better perspective. I would also tilt the camera up a bit to capitalise on the curvature of the building.

Thanks for the tips.  What about buildings on hills?

mrphotodude said:
ah...tri-x in hc-110...a man after my own heart.
i prefer tri-x with rodinal on slow development speed.
I used to go 320 iso because i was doing 4x4.5 most of the time.
In 35mm i rocked out the 400 alot.

Try out tmax with hc-110, use agfa RC MC paper(cheapest from adorama in NY).
Makes a nice tone.
just dont ever use tmax with rodinal!  :eek:
a buddy of mine that was sort of my mentor used to add vitamin c extract to the rodinal to increase grain....crazy guy.

I never though I would be one of those guys who talk about different developers, but HC-110 has a totally different vibe from D-76.. wow, like recording to a different tape formulation.  Need to pick up a bottle of Rodinal, never tried it, always wanted to.

I used to shoot a lot of t-max but I was sending the film to a lab to get developed.  I developed some myself in D-76 and the neg's turned out pink and it killed my fixer.  It's my understanding you need t-max chemistry to do it right?
skipwave said:
On the photo front, I'm just a tinkerer. The Lomography fisheye camera is sleazy, artsy fun.

I was thinking about getting a lomo camera for my lady...
 
skipwave said:
When were you in Chicago?

Oh, that was like September or whenever ATP was on in New York. I took a massive winebago from Chicago down south and then drove back up to NY.

I know, I should've given you a call to go for a beer. There's always next time though.

Those Lomos look like fun. My FED camera isn't much more advanced, although the lenses are quite nice.

Sonicmook, I'd aim for balance when taking wide shots outdoors. The other thing is to aim to get a good perspective, not just by framing, but also moving up and down. You might ed up lying on the ground, who knows. I say this, but I'm no expert!
 
sonicmook56 said:
sahib said:
Few tips on the architectural stuff. On the first picture; keep the kerb line on the background completely horizontal. Also if you let the kerb on the foreground exit the frame on the left hand corner you'll get better perspective. I would also tilt the camera up a bit to capitalise on the curvature of the building.

Thanks for the tips.  What about buildings on hills?

You are welcome. It depends but the main objective would be to lead the viewer into the building or buildings. If the road is dead straight, center it on the frame and let the right and left hand side kerbs exit the frame repsctively right and left bottom corners. If the road/path is winding then take it on an angle and put it on the right/left hand side of the frame. So if it is say on the right, the right hand edge/kerb of the road/path exits the frame from the right hand corner, and the left hand edge is placed about 1/3 of the frame.

Unfortunately I am writing from our home pc and can not upload images to my ftp sites. My archive is also in the office but I had few of my images here which I hope you like.

I took the attached image in Germany. It was a pretty dull day so there is not much to the picture but it takes you into the building. I will attach few more within the next couple of posts.
 

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