JLM Go-between DI and Par-metal faceplate

Anybody else have troubles getting a go between DI to stay fixed in place on a par metal faceplate? Seems like the faceplate is too thick for the thread depth on the 1/4" jack from Joe. I guess I need to find a sleeved 1/4" nut. Has nyone come up against this and found a solution?
Thanks
Paul

There is no good answer, according to Joe.  No similar American part with any greater depth.  The FET DI has a much better mounting method, and can take a thicker faceplate. 

Yeah...this made me angry. It didn't even fit the face plate JLM sold me!  I ended up ditching their face plate and bought a steel blank rack panel and used that. Worked fine and it was like $5 at GC.

I am not sure what the jack's dimensions are, but i have had luck with a stepped drill to make areas around holes thinner.

hello fluxivity;
i had same problem with my front panel, i've just cut the pcb bfore the 100nf capacitors or unstuff the jack socket to push it the more outside.
it's writining on his wed page.

(The plastic thread on this socket can only do up to a 3mm front panel if the socket is pushed fully forward and level with the front edge of  PCB when soldered in and will strip if over tightened.)

Click to expand...

i think the best solution its to use an L bracket inside the rack to hold it.
The L bracket should be less thicker off course...

This is a headache since i need to rack 2 of those DI's in a preamp!!!

maybe try a different jack, wire leads off the jack and then you can put the go between where ever you wish.

pucho812 said:

maybe try a different jack, wire leads off the jack and then you can put the go between where ever you wish.

Click to expand...

Not possible mate, as the jack does some "nifty" switching and has a special number of contacts .... I asked JLM
a while ago about that one !!
A bracket or extra internal front plate is the only option with most panels, including FPE and Tat's stuff :-(

MM.

The answer is to buy the FET DI, and for JLM to discontinue the other product.  Or redesign it for a better jack.

I had the same problem...

I took a dremel and grinded out the back of a 3mm panel so more threads would stick through. I also used some hot glue for additional support. It lasted a year or so, but a heavy handed engineer friend pushed it through a month or two ago when tracking something through the DI.

Plastic threads with metal (non-plastic) nut just doesn't seem to work well here; even will ample threads to grab on to.

Yeah the answer is the Fet DI...wich uses a jack more like the Neutrik type.
But i already have some...

It relies on the stretch of the plastic to act as pressure washer, which is just no good.  There's no room for a trim washer or a pressure washer, and the tiniest bit of excess pressure will trash the jack.  Which can't be purchased in America.  So, if one must order those DI's, for god's sake order spare jacks at the same time. 

Just buy the FET type.   

You've been warned.