2254C build/support thread

it's a hard choice between laughing or crying dude...

good luck Igor.

The guys English is very poor what he  means is a rapport on how he is going along, not missing any parts as I can read between the line's, I think he does not mean it very bad, but he is probably using a translator program :-(

Maybe it's better when he ask something, to check his text with a better spoken person.

djn111 said:

but he is probably using a translator program :-(

Click to expand...

This could be it.

Sixtyniner: may I ask, what is your first language? And you location? I mean, EU/USA is kind of broad...

Hi Guys,

A couple more questions if you will...

Looking at Igor's 33609 pics it seems deflection on the meter happens from Left to Right from 0 - 1mA at full deflection? This is opposite way of a traditional meter, at least with regards to measuring GR, which starts at 0 to the right and deflects from Right to Left? Correct? In much the same way the GSSL/SSL works. I have the option of choosing my own scale, so I'm thinking 0-20 works best in this case.

Right, the power supply... I found the partslist here (don't think it is in this thread, so posted here to help for others):

BOM for power supply:
1            LM317T              IC2
3   0.1      C5/2.5             C2, C3, C4
2   1N4004     1N4004             D1, D7
4   1N5400     1N5400             D9, D10, D11, D12
1   3k57       R-EU_0207/10       R5
1   10K        TRIM_EU-RJ9W       R6
1   25k        R-EU_0207/10       R2
1   50r         R-EU_0207/10       R4
2   100ux50v  CPOL-EUE3.5-8      C5, C7
1   196r      R-EU_0207/10       R1
1   4700u 50v     CPOL-EUE10-25      C13
1   TL071P   TL071P             IC1
1   Heatsink for lm317

Click to expand...

Right, on the 1N5400 Diodes, I assume assuming that any of the family can be used, 1N5401, 5402, 5403 etc, only difference is max voltage me thinks and possible physical size... it is proving hard to find straight up 1N5400's here, which I think at 50V max rating.

Now, torrid? Anyone know how much current these puppies draw? Pete I see you used some in yours, where they custom wound or off the shelf from RS or Farnell? It seems they will run off a singe 24VAC winding.

Thanks in advance.... getting closer each day to putting these to rest!

Cheers

Matt

i used 1N5401 in my 33609 psu. and for the toroidal i used a 30VA 2x12V sec 1,25A.
found here http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;ARTICLE=15274;PROVID=2402
works perfect in 33609.
hope that helps...
cheers, alex

yeap, u r right meter works from L to R .... just like any other current neve stuff i know of.
scale is up to your needs really....

Hi Matta, regarding toroid, 1A 24V will work fine.
VU-meter I used is ST7 from Farnell.
I printed the scale myself, feel free to request .pdf
Use 220R in paralel to meter than 680R in series to get approx. 1ma full scale.

Hi bros,
I've been swamped with work, 2 records and other DIY and haven't even cracked open my 2254c kit.  Is anyone in the same boat at me?

-bb

bradb said:

Hi bros,
I've been swamped with work, 2 records and other DIY and haven't even cracked open my 2254c kit.  Is anyone in the same boat at me?

Click to expand...

yes. same here...
alex

Absolutely, NO GOOD
What is the reson-time or it's too complicated???

just too damn busy!

I haven't even started!

aside from work, bands, making records, dealing with a wife...

i've got 2 MK7s the finish, 4 REDD 47s to finish... its just coo coo over here.

I just hope that i don't come back in several months with a question and people are like........"HUH?" 

like i'm rip van winkle or some shit!

Igor said:

Absolutely, NO GOOD
What is the reson-time or it's too complicated???

Click to expand...

nope, just looking for some time. and everything should be well prepared. of course, my second (i.j.)neve gets its customized housing...  ;D
cheers buddies!

Aha, OK than. Looking forward to see assembled baby's

I'm just about finished stuffing my boards and I'm left with a few things I need some help clarifying...

RV1: It has a different pinout on the pcbs than the other 5k trimmers, and is labeled rj9w, where as the others are s64w.  Searching rj9w on mouser didn't yield anything and looking through the catalog there was no answer that i could discern.  So, what does the different pinout mean and how can I determine what is the correct part?

Some Caps: On the PCB a number of caps have an "m" designation, i.e. 100m (C3) but 100u on the BOM.  I take it that these are 100 microfarads (uf) and not 100 milifarads (mf).  Is that correct?

Low ESR:  I'm having a little trouble sourcing a 1000uf that will fit nicely on the board, how much wiggle room is there in the value of CPS?

Thanks!

RV1= BA283 equal clipping trimpot.. i have used regular trimpot...
100m = 100uf
1000uf lowesr = you should be ok with vishay BC axial series... that what i ordered for my next build.

Thank you for setting that straight.  For the sake of learning could you (or anyone else) explain what the different pinout for the RV1 trimmer is all about?

US builders (or anywhere really), is anyone using the cinemags or lundahls discussed in the 33609 thread?  The cinemags are about a $100 savings before taxes and shipping over the carnhills, worth it in my mind, but not if they don't jive well with the project. 

I had no experience with Cinemags, however, this company makes good trafo's as I know from people.
They definately should have types which will match here.
Worth to try. Interesting to know about listening experience.

Kam, thanx, you was fater than me!!!

substitute said:

US builders (or anywhere really), is anyone using the cinemags or lundahls discussed in the 33609 thread?  The cinemags are about a $100 savings before taxes and shipping over the carnhills, worth it in my mind, but not if they don't jive well with the project.  

Click to expand...

just tried cinemag CMOQ-2S on BA283 line input module...
i wouldnt strongly recommend on the output, ( as its suggested on 33609 thread)
but on the input matter of choice... carhills somewhat slower... cinemag seems little more faster, if you know what i mean  :
you would need to adjust the gain structure tho... they are not the same...
i would stick with carnhills, if you want classic sound...
use cinemag, if you are willing to do some extra work, and slightly different sound...
hope this helps...


edit: saying all that... i will use some cinemag in my mixer...
edit 2: sowter is an option too... i think prodigy.com is main US distributor.

Thanks so much Kambo.  I think I'll stick with the carnhills, I'm sure either brand will sound excellent but I don't want to have to screw around with the circuit if I don't have to.