Barry Porter "Net EQ"

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weiss said:
when i can hear it click it means it's working right?  ???

Yes, sounds like the relay is working. When you say the HF section doesn’t work do you mean no signal or the controls aren’t working?
 
Gold said:
Yes, sounds like the relay is working. When you say the HF section doesn’t work do you mean no signal or the controls aren’t working?

Only the gain control in PEAK mode on one side, everything else works
and
Low mid gain control on both sides

Is it possible i used the wrong potentiometers? Mine only have 3 solder lugs instead of 4 printed on the pcb. But then i think it's strange that most of the pots work..
i used this BOM
 

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weiss said:
Is it possible i used the wrong potentiometers? Mine only have 3 solder lugs instead of 4 printed on the pcb. But then i think it's strange that most of the pots work..
i used this BOM

You’re not using center tapped pots? I don’t know why it’s working. I would think it wouldn’t work.
 
Maybe you soldered pots into wrong holes?

It should be okay to use 3 lug pots since if you observe original board designed by mr. Porter it uses only 3 lugs. Fourth lug is not connected.
I've attached PCB Tracking.pdf here so look it up
:)
 

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shot said:
It should be okay to use 3 lug pots since if you observe original board designed by mr. Porter it uses only 3 lugs. Fourth lug is not connected.
I've attached PCB Tracking.pdf here so look it up
:)
Wrong. Every connection to the ground plane is hidden.
 
Harpo said:
Wrong. Every connection to the ground plane is hidden.

yes i need CT pots. I just missed that fact, had the wrong BOM.
Thanks for pointing it out
 
I used the two 5K resistors twisted together trick to get my EQ going.  You could also rig up an On-Off-On toggle switch for max gain, min gain and no gain.

The gain control is a good candidate for a rotary switch for this reason.
 
Gold said:
I used the two 5K resistors twisted together trick to get my EQ going.  You could also rig up an On-Off-On toggle switch for max gain, min gain and no gain.

The gain control is a good candidate for a rotary switch for this reason.

absolutely. thanks man!
I'll eventually think about upgrading but first i gotta make this work  ::)
 
Each section is kind of an island to its self. You only need to attach controls to the section you are testing. To be extra sure you could only load opamps into the section you are testing. When you are sure one section is working move onto the next.
 
Hey guys,

I'm thinking to build a NetEq. I heard some samples and seems to be a quite interesting eq. I found the pcbs on pcbgrinder.

I would like to know an average of how much I will spend to build a stereo version.

Is there a component list available?
Pcbgrinder sells the pcbs only.

Thanks!
 
ctechdx said:
I would like to know an average of how much I will spend to build a stereo version.

It depends on which switches you use, it could be approx. 600-700€ if you use the cheaper ones (it also depend on the choice of case and components).

If you plan to use Elma’s, things get to start expensive...
 
Huge thank you to everyone that’s posed questions and shared troubleshooting tips for this project since it’s inception, the tips that were shared helped me avoid making assumptions that could have potentially not made this a successful build.

I finished both channels and tested them last night with some nasty sounding pre-masters last night and it really cleaned thing up quite a bit.

The only issue that I’m having appears to be on the low-mid band and is occurring on both channels.  I can hear it sweeping the frequencies and the Q widening/tightening but the boost/cut is incredibly subtle in compared to the other bands.  Is this by design?

In the grand scheme of things this is a minor annoyance, but I’d like to be able to cut/boost just a little bit more.
 
Slime_Lord said:
The only issue that I’m having appears to be on the low-mid band and is occurring on both channels.  I can hear it sweeping the frequencies and the Q widening/tightening but the boost/cut is incredibly subtle in compared to the other bands.  Is this by design

All four of the bell sections are the same except for the component values. The low mid sections should behave the same way as the other bands.

I’ve gotten behavior like that when I’ve miswired a switch or two. I’d compare the low mid sections to a working section. Double check component values and connections.
 
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