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ChuckD

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
578
Location
Irvine California USA
[quote author="ChuckD"]
Help me find those 5k revs!
-ChuckD[/quote]

I have posted about three times that Newark carries them (search for "T13") for about six months. They had 372 pieces last week still and now they are all gone. If you buy some dual 10k revlogs from Joe Malone you can wire them in parallel to get 5K.

Tamas
 
in your spreadsheet.....this mouser part number doesn't exist:

5982-10-300V10

copy and paste it into mouser's search engine.

i replaced it with a 550v version which is

5982-10-500V10

also, out of curiosity, and my own ignorance. you have a 100uF electrolytic "high temp" and another 100uF lytic "low leakage"

what are you using those for?

thanks for the list!!!!!!
 
Thanks!! I will make that correction tonight.

As far as the electrolitic, I'm not sure why I did this... no reason really I will fix the duplication as well and just go with the cheapest one. Unless someone else disagrees.


-ChuckD
 
continuing on with your list.....

there are now three different 100uF lytics.

35v hi-temp
35v low-leak
25v low-leak ultra miniature

also the 1000uF cap ( i assume for PSU) is only 10v....seems like a really low voltage.

you also have a 5534 on the list but are showing the forssell discrete stuff.

not sure you need that chip if you are going discrete......

just tryin to help out....sorry if i'm being a total pest.
 
Ok if I have time I will cross reference the list with the component names and BOM tonight

As far as the 5534's I was planning on trying to mod the device to switch OUTPUT stages between a "classic" and 'modern" modes. I still have to figure out what traces need to be cut for this mod, but I think it is do-able.

Keep making corrections as we can post the results on the offical page.


Thanks

CHuckD
 
cool

i'm actually dropping things into my own parts list

i "stole" the format from greg as it has pricing and all sorts of good info

i'll post mine when done, but basically it's your list with more detail.

were you planning on mounting your pots to the PCB as shown on the silk screening?

the pots in your parts list are solder lug......

i'm still not sure which i'll do....just curious as to your thoughts.

also, i noticed the Bourn trim pot i assume is for the LED bar. would it be more accurate to use a multi-turn version of that????
 
No I am building a stereo unit so I will most likely have to connect the pots via wires which is why I went with the solder lugs. Not sure that the holes even line up with the larger types of pots. Check the hole spacing!

-ChuckD
 
i grabed NRG's front panel express layout.....i should be able to plot it to scale and look at that in the next few days.

it would be nice to have everything on the PCB, makes for a cleaner "install".
 
Mounting the boards with pots and switches on board might be a little tough for the average DIYer. There's a lot to think about and accuracy is an issue. There's not very much room to play. The hole spacing is .100" for the pots. For the switches, you'll have to think about the length of the caps and thickness of the face plate. I drew things with the thought that most folks will mount the pots and switches to a face plate and run some wires to the pcb.
 
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