If the legs have spots of rust on these transformers, would it be most likely that the inside is crap? Nearly all these old transformers have some rust on their legs and I have spoken to some sellers who claim that they are still good and it's just common.
Looking into some vintage in/out transformers, I am noticing some rusty legs?
- Thread starter canidoit
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
Rust on laminations is not a problem (unless most of the iron has turned out into brown powder), it is a benefit! The reason why the magnetic core of a transformer is laminated is because it reduces eddy-currents. Rust is an isolator, so it reduces eddy-current losses. The older the better!
it is ok, but do not clean it, if you sand or wire wheel the thing, you have the potential to will short out some lams, which could make a power transformer run hot.
the neve thing with rupert specifying rusty lams, what could that mean?
he wanted to make sure the qc guys were shipping the right stuff, like green M&M's in the fleetwood mac contract?
maybe the stacking was tweaked, with a slight gap between lams, good for dc
maybe it was a sales gimmick
maybe he was full of it
i do not know.
the neve thing with rupert specifying rusty lams, what could that mean?
he wanted to make sure the qc guys were shipping the right stuff, like green M&M's in the fleetwood mac contract?
maybe the stacking was tweaked, with a slight gap between lams, good for dc
maybe it was a sales gimmick
maybe he was full of it
i do not know.
Sorry, but what are you talking about when it comes to "lams". I thought rust is a bad thing for anything metal and even electronics because it would spread and eat away the metals eventually.CJ said:
What tests can you do on a UTC A-24, A-10 or HA-100X output Transformer for example besides plugging it in?
Define legs; not sure what you mean. If you're talking about any of the UTC's you listed, ohm them out with a meter. I've never found rust on a potted transformer to have anything to do with function. I've seen rusted antique amplifiers that nearly looked like they came off the sea bed, which played perfectly.
<what tests can you do on a UTC A-24, A-10 or HA-100X output Transformer for example besides plugging it in...>
how much time do you have?
how much time do you have?
gemini86
Well-known member
does he mean the lugs?
...as in where you would solder wire on to hook it up?
...as in where you would solder wire on to hook it up?
ok, this is getting to be a lot of fun.
how about if you take a look at this:
http://vacuumbrain.com/docs/Sub_Docs/a10.html
how about if you take a look at this:
http://vacuumbrain.com/docs/Sub_Docs/a10.html
Wow, you seem really panicky, for no apparent reason. Really. Maybe you know something about the storage life of these transformers that we don't. You haven't mentioned anything that sounds remotely terminal. Like being underwater for 2 days, or something. They work or they don't. I've seen plenty of real purty dead ones, and plenty of real uglies that worked perfectly.
I would prefer to increase my chances of getting a good second hand one. So if rusty lugs would result in those types of internals, wouldn't I be better off taking the risk on transformers with no rusty legs?emrr said:
Biasrocks
Well-known member
canidoit said:
You'd be much better off contacting Magnetek and getting them to build you nice shiny new ones.
Mark
canidoit said:
Sure; understood. I don't see anything about rust issues in CJ's links, though. That's what all transformers look like on the inside. Perhaps you can point out the relevant part you saw which concerns you. As someone else already said, rust is an insulator and isolator. It's generally not like Alien, eating through 5 floors and the hull of the ship into outer space. Besides, and crafty dealer is going to clean up the appearance of a vintage transformer, and many will repaint one that has rust problems. There's are a lot of cosmetic restoration going on out there, which may or may not be viewed as dishonest. You can't tell a thing from a picture. If it ohms out correctly, then you have the same likely hood of future failure as you would find with an NOS piece; totally unknown.
actually, if you have a ratty lookin terminal board, it is not a bad idea to remove the header plate, suck out all the 1940's rosin, and re solder all the leads with nice new shiny solder.
plus, you get to smell the 1940's rosin.
lingers longer than bacon and hash browns, well done.
sometimes i open up a can and the lead is floppin, or it is hangin by 2 strands.
but, you can do more damge than good if you are not careful, ie, try to to strip the breakout clolored cloth wire, the wax makes your pliers slip, and you completely rip the lead and about 37 turns of #41 right off the secondary, for the love of god, that is when i start to stuff myself down the Sears trash compactor i got ion evilbay for 20 bucks, batteries not included.
plus, you get to smell the 1940's rosin.
lingers longer than bacon and hash browns, well done.
sometimes i open up a can and the lead is floppin, or it is hangin by 2 strands.
but, you can do more damge than good if you are not careful, ie, try to to strip the breakout clolored cloth wire, the wax makes your pliers slip, and you completely rip the lead and about 37 turns of #41 right off the secondary, for the love of god, that is when i start to stuff myself down the Sears trash compactor i got ion evilbay for 20 bucks, batteries not included.
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