Frontpanel express questions

I know this may be dumb but I have to ask. I have never used Front Panel Express b4.

1. Do you send them the front of you project Box or do they provide that?
2. If they are providing the front panel is their a difference in price?
3. IF I am sending them my pannel, ON my FPD file do I have to include the holes that are already there or just the ones I want them to put in?
4. what is the difference between filled and not filled?
5. If wanted them to do the backside as well any suggestions as to which XLR to select if I am using neutrik chassis XLR mounts?

[quote author="pucho812"]1. Do you send them the front of you project Box or do they provide that?
2. If they are providing the front panel is their a difference in price?[/quote]


You can do either. If you send them your panel, then you just pay a setup fee. If they cut the panel from their stock, you pay a materials fee. From what i understand, their panels don't have the outer edge anodized since it's cut from stock sheets.

3. IF I am sending them my pannel, ON my FPD file do I have to include the holes that are already there or just the ones I want them to put in?

Click to expand...

I think you leave the existing holes off the file. As long as you account for them in your spacings. Otherwise the program quotes you for the holes that you put on the panel file even if they're already on the panel.

4. what is the difference between filled and not filled?

Click to expand...

Do you mean engraving? Not filled means you just have raw aluminium exposed on your engraving. Filled, you can choose your color of paint to fill the engraving.

Daniel

mucho gracias :sam: :guinness: :guinness: :sam:

Here's another similar thread:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=2935&highlight=frontpanels

And the results (not filled):
http://members.cox.net/capstanrecording/G1176_1.JPG

Hi Pucho812, the Neutrik XLRs are normally 24mm in diameter, check that with the FPD template holes for XLR connectors.

Do people leave like 0.25mm extra on a hole to ensure good clearance when panel mounting parts?

I have another FPD question as well - kind of related.....

whats the proceedure if you want them to mill the back of the panel as well....like adding some M3 threads to some 'blind' holes?

Has anyone ever done that, with a separate .fpd for rear of panel?

Thanks a lot
Tom

Oh BTW I think the 24mm is the same size no matter whether you use rear panel or front panel mount Neutriks (the D series and L?)

Just e-mail them about the blind holes. They can do it but the setup might be an extra cost. I just spoke to Heinz about this for another project.

Thanks Tom - will do.

I had some tapped cavities made on the backside of some 1176 panels in the past...

in my experience... though it worked... it isnt the best solution... they hold fine but the bank swithces could use more support... use the thickest stock you can deal with if your going to have tapped cavities...

3.5mm or thicker... realize that even with a 3.5mm panel they will only be able to go in about 2mm which isnt very far

[quote author="TomWaterman"]whats the proceedure if you want them to mill the back of the panel as well....like adding some M3 threads to some 'blind' holes?

Has anyone ever done that, with a separate .fpd for rear of panel?
[/quote]

I tried that with an urei panel and the switch banks...
The threaded bolt will be pressed/mold into the panel.
I checked the mechanical strength... welded bolts have a better strength of course.
I could quarry out the bolts only with my hands, :? glued it back to the panel and i the stability was ok. :wink:

Just be careful with the second panel for the backside...
When the frontpanel is engraved they turn the panel vertically. I thought they will turn it horizontal :roll: so the 4 bolts were mounted the wrong way :wink: :green: (this mistake costs me 5€) :wink:

Regards,
Frank.

Ahh OK, maybe its not such a great idea.

I saw another elegant solution in a post the other day, little L brackets that can be mounted to holes in the chassis base.

Do any of you allow room for extra clearance when making holes for switches etc?

I would hate to get a panel back and find that its ever so slightly a tight fit.

Cheers Tom

You should always know what parts/components you're gonna use so you can measure or read mechanical drawings for dim.

I always leave a small clearance but keep tolerences rather tight overall.

[quote author="tommytones"]You should always know what parts/components you're gonna use so you can measure or read mechanical drawings for dim.[/quote]
You should have the parts on your desk when you design the frontpanel. I have tried designing a PCB using the datasheet for a part. Then when the part arrived the design had changed, but the datasheet hadn't been updated...

Best regards,

Mikkel C. Simonsen

[quote author="Greg"]....

And the results (not filled):
http://members.cox.net/capstanrecording/G1176_1.JPG[/quote]

Hey Greg, is this really 'not' filled? It looks like it's filled with white.
Maybe I don't understand this whole filled or not filled business.

(either way, great results - very pro.)

[quote author="kato"]It looks like it's filled with white.[/quote]

No, that's what the aluminum looks like after they mill it.

BTW, that looks real good, Greg!

Peace,
Al.

Their stock is pre-anodized so they would have to send your panel out anyhow butta. I'm guessing you didn't like the red??

As for the filled or not thing, the spindle of the mill is turning at a very high speed and almost polishes the engraving as it goes. When I got my panel (not filled) it looked as if it were filled. Very nice. Not sure how long the shine will last before crud starts building up but time will tell.

I had my bloo 1176 panels filled with white...

I personally thought that it gave that nice finished touch.. But I know it drove the price up quite a bit.. especially if you have alot of engraving

Thanks guys,

I have designed panels with the right dimensions for the parts I will use but wondered if it was worthwhile leaving a little extra room just to be sure.

Can you get panels from Schaeffer that are not anodised in any way, so I can anodise them elsewhere and have no raw edges?

Cheers Tom

[quote author="TomWaterman"]Can you get panels from Schaeffer that are not anodised in any way, so I can anodise them elsewhere and have no raw edges?[/quote]
Mmh At least you can't choose it in the program. :?
Why not just ask them?
I don't know where you live but maybe these panels are available in your country too. :wink: All those companys who makes stairs/steps can cut aluminium sheets.
There are companys that can do all: cut frontpanels, drill frontpanels, anodize them and make the panel lettering... but mostly the costs for making films and cnc programming is only lucratively with bigger quantities.


Another question:
Have anyone ever send a self sprayed panel to schaeffer for engraving? I would like to know what happens when the engraving is done... The colour could peel off!? :wink:

I believe Steffen has done this many times although he moved on to lazer etching. Maybe he'll pop in and let us know?

Hey I downloaded the .fpd files for the 1176 from NRGrecording.
What meter and case will fit with this panel?

The meter listed at NRG (a hoyt meter) is crossed out - as though it's incorrect.