mhuss

Re: Hairball Audio: 1176 Stereo Linking PCBs Support Thread
« Reply #200 on: July 08, 2016, 11:40:01 PM »
Just (finally!) finished my dual mnats 1176 with the Hairball red link cards . Both channels seem to work fine in dual mode. When in linked mode, sufficient input on channel 1 causes both channel meters to indicate GR as I would expect. However, the same input on channel 2 causes that channel to show /more/ GR while the channel 1 meter doesn't move.

All the connections and voltages on the red cards look good. However, I noticed that when I put in in dual mode, the input to the link switch (coming from pad 15 on the ch. 1 ratio board) goes flat - the signal stops. This happens even when the wire is disconnected at the red board (loop) end!  :o

I checked the DPDT switch and wires carefully with an ohmmeter and the switch seems to be working fine, and nothing is shorted to ground.

Any ideas what I should look at next?


joaofar

Re: Hairball Audio: 1176 Stereo Linking PCBs Support Thread
« Reply #201 on: May 28, 2018, 09:23:28 AM »
Hey guys,

I hope there is still someone out there since this looks like a stalled post, but anyways...

I need your help, I'm stuck.
I built a stereo version of Mnats rev. J boards with Hairball's stereo link (the stereo link was home etched).
Like some here, it works perfectly in dual mode, but when I switch into stereo mode the 2 channels are around 3-5db off (I did ricothetroll's wiring)

I read all the posts I could find about stereo linking 1176 but nothing there has helped me fix it so far.

The stereo link boards were home etched, so the first thing I thought was that there was something wrong with them. I measured the input (loop) on both boards while feeding a sine wave into both channels and they were feeding very different values, something like ~0.3V vs ~1.1V. The value was the same at the XLR inputs, around 0.775V, which I used to calibrate them. The input knobs on both channels were matched for the purpose of this test.

I then connected the XLR inputs directly to the boards (via the loop input) to be able to test them without the rest of the circuitry and there everything appeared to work normally, the summing worked as advertised.
So I'm assuming the stereo link boards are fine.
If this test methodology is wrong would someone suggest a better way for me to test them?

Since the mono channels are working fine, and tracking quite close in dual mode, I really don't know what to do next. The closest thing I found was germoju's post about matching other transistors in the main boards, but it was for a version D which seems to use different ones. Is this something I should investigate? I really don't feel like unsoldering transistors for no reason...

So, any suggestions?



P.S.The fets were matched, and I think they are really close, I'll leave the numbers below:

Device   VGS (V)   VDS (V)   ID (mA)
1   0.00   0.358   0.96
1   -0.25   0.50   0.95
1   -0.50   1.50   0.85
1   -0.75   5.87   0.41
1   -1.00   9.02   0.10
1   -2.00   9.94   0.01
1   -3.00   9.94   0.01
Device   VGS (V)   VDS (V)   ID (mA)
8   0.00   0.37   0.96
8   -0.25   0.49   0.95
8   -0.50   1.45   0.86
8   -0.75   5.87   0.41
8   -1.00   9.04   0.10
8   -2.00   9.94   0.01
8   -3.00   9.94   0.01
Device   VGS (V)   VDS (V)   ID (mA)
6   0.00   0.37   0.96
6   -0.25   0.50   0.95
6   -0.50   1.59   0.84
6   -0.75   6   0.85
6   -1.00   9.08   0.09
6   -2.00   9.94   0.01
6   -3.00   9.94   0.01
Device   VGS (V)   VDS (V)   ID (mA)
12   0.00   0.37   0.96
12   -0.25   0.50   0.95
12   -0.50   1.55   0.85
12   -0.75   6.00   0.40
12   -1.00   9.09   0.09
12   -2.00   9.94   0.01
12   -3.00   9.94   0.01

Mikolaj

Re: Hairball Audio: 1176 Stereo Linking PCBs Support Thread
« Reply #202 on: June 26, 2018, 03:02:06 PM »
I have built a dual 1176 rev D compressor rotary version. Works perfectly.
Trying the to make the hair ball stereo link to work. Nothing happens on the meters? ( followed hairball instructions)
I read there is an alternative wiring diagram for the rotary version by  Ricothetroll And they say it works but the link is dead. The instructions seem simple enough but I’m stumped.
Is there a list somewhere of voltages or signal paths that I can start trouble shooting or is there something special to do for rotary versions?
Thank you

Hairball Audio

Re: Hairball Audio: 1176 Stereo Linking PCBs Support Thread
« Reply #203 on: June 26, 2018, 11:59:31 PM »
I have built a dual 1176 rev D compressor rotary version. Works perfectly.
Trying the to make the hair ball stereo link to work. Nothing happens on the meters? ( followed hairball instructions)
I read there is an alternative wiring diagram for the rotary version by  Ricothetroll And they say it works but the link is dead. The instructions seem simple enough but I’m stumped.
Is there a list somewhere of voltages or signal paths that I can start trouble shooting or is there something special to do for rotary versions?
Thank you

Do you have the link wire in the PCBs?  You need to use a resistor lead or something.

Mike
Hairball Audio, LLC
DIY Parts and Kits
http://hairballaudio.com/shop

Top secret stuff and upcoming releases:
http://facebook.com/hairballaudio
http://twitter.com/HairballAudio/

joaofar

Re: Hairball Audio: 1176 Stereo Linking PCBs Support Thread
« Reply #204 on: November 28, 2018, 06:27:36 PM »
Hey guys,

Still haven't solved this one...  :'(
Any tips on how to troubleshoot why I'm getting a 2/3 dB difference between channels when in link mode?

They both work quite similarly in dual mode when fed the same signal.
When in link mode both channels react to audio even if only one is fed a signal.
I've switched the stereo boards around but the behaviour is the same, the left channel always compresses more than the right no matter what signal I feed where and what knobs I turn, so that leaves me thinking that the summing is working fine and then when each channel reacts to the signal they do it differently?! Even when very close in dual mode?

Any tips/suggestions on where to look are truly appreciated, I'm completely stuck.
Thanks!

Hey guys,

I hope there is still someone out there since this looks like a stalled post, but anyways...

I need your help, I'm stuck.
I built a stereo version of Mnats rev. J boards with Hairball's stereo link (the stereo link was home etched).
Like some here, it works perfectly in dual mode, but when I switch into stereo mode the 2 channels are around 3-5db off (I did ricothetroll's wiring)

I read all the posts I could find about stereo linking 1176 but nothing there has helped me fix it so far.

The stereo link boards were home etched, so the first thing I thought was that there was something wrong with them. I measured the input (loop) on both boards while feeding a sine wave into both channels and they were feeding very different values, something like ~0.3V vs ~1.1V. The value was the same at the XLR inputs, around 0.775V, which I used to calibrate them. The input knobs on both channels were matched for the purpose of this test.

I then connected the XLR inputs directly to the boards (via the loop input) to be able to test them without the rest of the circuitry and there everything appeared to work normally, the summing worked as advertised.
So I'm assuming the stereo link boards are fine.
If this test methodology is wrong would someone suggest a better way for me to test them?

Since the mono channels are working fine, and tracking quite close in dual mode, I really don't know what to do next. The closest thing I found was germoju's post about matching other transistors in the main boards, but it was for a version D which seems to use different ones. Is this something I should investigate? I really don't feel like unsoldering transistors for no reason...

So, any suggestions?



P.S.The fets were matched, and I think they are really close, I'll leave the numbers below:

Device   VGS (V)   VDS (V)   ID (mA)
1   0.00   0.358   0.96
1   -0.25   0.50   0.95
1   -0.50   1.50   0.85
1   -0.75   5.87   0.41
1   -1.00   9.02   0.10
1   -2.00   9.94   0.01
1   -3.00   9.94   0.01
Device   VGS (V)   VDS (V)   ID (mA)
8   0.00   0.37   0.96
8   -0.25   0.49   0.95
8   -0.50   1.45   0.86
8   -0.75   5.87   0.41
8   -1.00   9.04   0.10
8   -2.00   9.94   0.01
8   -3.00   9.94   0.01
Device   VGS (V)   VDS (V)   ID (mA)
6   0.00   0.37   0.96
6   -0.25   0.50   0.95
6   -0.50   1.59   0.84
6   -0.75   6   0.85
6   -1.00   9.08   0.09
6   -2.00   9.94   0.01
6   -3.00   9.94   0.01
Device   VGS (V)   VDS (V)   ID (mA)
12   0.00   0.37   0.96
12   -0.25   0.50   0.95
12   -0.50   1.55   0.85
12   -0.75   6.00   0.40
12   -1.00   9.09   0.09
12   -2.00   9.94   0.01
12   -3.00   9.94   0.01

Hairball Audio

Re: Hairball Audio: 1176 Stereo Linking PCBs Support Thread
« Reply #205 on: November 30, 2018, 10:49:26 AM »
Hey guys,

Still haven't solved this one...  :'(
Any tips on how to troubleshoot why I'm getting a 2/3 dB difference between channels when in link mode?

They both work quite similarly in dual mode when fed the same signal.
When in link mode both channels react to audio even if only one is fed a signal.
I've switched the stereo boards around but the behaviour is the same, the left channel always compresses more than the right no matter what signal I feed where and what knobs I turn, so that leaves me thinking that the summing is working fine and then when each channel reacts to the signal they do it differently?! Even when very close in dual mode?

Any tips/suggestions on where to look are truly appreciated, I'm completely stuck.
Thanks!

2-3 dB ob the output? That would be your output pot tolerance.
Hairball Audio, LLC
DIY Parts and Kits
http://hairballaudio.com/shop

Top secret stuff and upcoming releases:
http://facebook.com/hairballaudio
http://twitter.com/HairballAudio/

Potato Cakes

Re: Hairball Audio: 1176 Stereo Linking PCBs Support Thread
« Reply #206 on: December 04, 2018, 10:43:33 PM »
2-3 dB ob the output? That would be your output pot tolerance.

That seems to be working correctly, as Mike suggested. Also, if you're testing this just tone, there will be some difference, but when using program material the stereo channels track very closely to each other. The stereo linking PCB doesn't match the input and output of the units, those still have to be tweaked for each channel. And also there is the tolerance factor as Mike stated. Even quality potentiometers are 20% tolerance. Try testing the stereo linking with a drum mix instead of tone and see how much difference you need between the output controls to get something more evenly matched.

Thanks!

Paul


 

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